Hitching up an Evernew (Image Cam Inniss)
While hitching up the van might seem like a simple process, there are a lot of things you need to do and check to ensure your van or trailer is correctly hooked on and ready to go. So, to help simplify the process we’ve put together this handy guide and checklist.
One of the most memorable hitching gone-wrong stories I’ve heard was during a towing course I attended last year, where the instructors told us about a couple of towing newbies who’d turned up after a 30+ minute drive with their brand-spanking new van only sitting on the tow ball, not actually secured.
It was only upon arrival that the van finally decided it had had enough and bounced off, much to the dismay of the owners. Thankfully it was a no-harm, no-foul situation (miraculously), but it quickly imprinted the importance of double and triple checking your hitch situation before driving off.
Understanding the terms
Before we dive into the checklist, here’s an overview of some of the key components of your hitching connection.
Ball mount or tongue:
This part is the section that connects the tow bar to your towing vehicle. It will either have a tow ball or a pin.
Coupling hitch (tow ball or pin):
There are various kinds of coupling hitches available on the market. Tow balls are the most traditional but hitches such as the Cruisemaster DO35, which are a pin coupling rather than a ball, are becoming more popular, especially for offroad caravans. Many coupling hitches will have a coloured visual indicator or a design feature to alert you as to whether or not it has attached successfully. A DO35 has a reassuring metal clang when it locks on.
Cruisemaster DO35 hitch and TrailSafe breakaway cable (Image Malcolm Street)
A-frame:
Also known as the drawbar. This is the front section of your caravan or trailer’s chassis, and this is where the coupling body is attached
Coupling body:
This part forms a socket for the tow ball or pin attached to the car, and forms the main link between the two.
- A standard coupling is when the tow ball or pin receiver is attached to the top of the A-frame.
- An underslung coupling is when it is attached beneath or to the middle of the A-frame.
Stabiliser hitch or weight distribution:
It’s becoming more common for weight distribution hitches to also include sway control and stabilising. These devices help distribute weight more evenly between your tow vehicle and caravan/trailer and can help you avoid trailer sway or ‘snaking’. These hitches generally have bars which connect from the ball mount/tongue to the A-frame to distribute weight and aid stability.
For more info on what weight distribution hitches are and what they do, check out this article.
Weight distribution hitches connect to the ball mount/tongue and the A-frame
Caravan handbrake:
This is part of the coupling body and much like your car handbrake it is lifted to lock your caravan into position or lowered to allow it to freely move.
Jockey wheel:
Attached to the A-frame and near the coupling body, the jockey wheel allows you to lift or lower the coupling hitch so that it lines up nicely with the tow ball or hitch, ready for connection. Traditional jockey wheels require manual winding up or down, but electric or hydraulic options like the BOS jockey wheel system are becoming increasingly popular. Before driving away they must be raised into either a travel position and secured or removed and stowed somewhere safe (this varies model to model).
Breakaway cable:
This cable attaches to the brake system of your caravan or trailer and to the back of your tow vehicle. In the case of your caravan becoming unintentionally unhitched, it activates the van’s brakes automatically and maintain them for at least 15 minutes. BMPRO’s TrailSafe is one of the most common options you’ll find in vans. To reset the cable, simply push the cable pin back in to release the caravan’s brakes.
Simply push the breakaway cable back in to reset the brakes
Electrical leads:
These will be your six or 12 pin plug and the Anderson plug which are the link between your caravan’s electrics and your tow vehicle and allows the caravan’s brakes and lights to draw power from the engine.
How to hitch your caravan
1. Check inside your caravan, ensuring that all hatches, windows, fridge and cupboard doors are closed and that the TV and any other appliances are secure, TV aerial is wound down and all loose items are placed somewhere safe.
2. Turn off all appliances (gas and electric). Gas should be turned off at the bottle. If your fridge doesn’t have an automatic power selection, flick it over to 12V ready for connection at the hitch. Switch off the electrical switches to your AC, microwave and washing machine. Turn off your water pump.
Always turn the gas off at the bottle (Image John Hughes)
3. Disconnect the 240V power lead (if applicable) and store it in a safe spot.
4. Disconnect the water supply and sullage hose, roll them up and store them in an appropriate external locker.
5. Inspect all tyres on the vehicle and van, including the spares and make sure that tyre pressures are adjusted to the recommended level (find this in the owner’s handbook or on the tyre placard). Don’t forget to check the wheel nuts are tightened.
6. Check that the caravan handbrake is activated.
Check that the caravan handbrake is activated (Image Josh Hanger)
7. Raise your van’s corner steadies/legs and fasten them in travel position.
8. Wind up the jockey wheel so that the coupling body will sit above your tow ball or pin.
9. Remove the cover from the vehicle’s tow ball or pin.
10. Reverse your vehicle so that the tow ball or hitch is beneath the coupling body, or as close to it as possible.
11. Ensure the coupling latch is open and ready so that the coupling body can be lowered onto the tow ball or pin.
12. Wind down the jockey wheel so the coupling body fits over the hitch and takes the weight of the caravan.
13. Lower the coupling latch or set the pin to secure the coupling body over the tow ball or pin hitch, and make sure it has connected properly. For ball mounts, put the locking pin through the latch to ensure it stays in place.
14. Secure the jockey wheel in either its travel position or remove it and stow in a safe spot.
Removing the jockey wheel
15. If you are using a weight distribution hitch, this is the time to engage it.
16. Attach the safety chains by running them below the hitch and secure to the tow bar using D-shackles. Safety chains should have enough slack to turn without tension on the chains, but not so loose that they drag on the ground. If you have two safety chains, cross them over to form an X; that way, if the caravan was to come unhitched the safety chains will catch them.
It’s important to have your safety chains at the right length (Image Allison Watt)
17. Check that your trailer’s electrical leads are in good working order and the plug and socket are dirt-free.
18. Plug in the van’s six or 12 pin plugs and any Anderson plugs into the vehicle’s socket; this will supply 12V power from the vehicle to the van for the indicator and brake lights, fridge and so on. If you have a stabiliser system, this is when you plug it in. Make sure that the electric cables will not drag or pull as the vehicle turns.
Feed wires though coupling handle (Image Steve Kealy)
19. If your van or trailer weighs more than 2T, connect the breakaway cable.
20. Take the van’s handbrake off and remove any wheel chocks.
21. Do a final exterior check of the van and make sure all windows, doors, slide-outs, roof hatches, TV aerial, steps and so on are locked in travel position. Double check the awning brace knobs are tightened so it doesn’t come loose while driving.
22. Check that all the trailer lights are working (indicators and brakes).
23. If required, add your towing mirrors and check that you have full view down both sides of your vehicle and caravan.
24. Pull out of your campsite a short distance and check that you haven’t left anything behind.
It's important to know what everything is and how it works (Image Steve Kealy)
How to unhitch your caravan
1. If you’re using a stabiliser system, release it.
2. Drive/reverse into your campsite. If the van isn’t level side to side, then drive up onto some suitable ramps on the low side. It’s always good to reverse straight back to avoid tension on the tyres in a turn which can twist the van when the hitch is lifted.
3. Apply the caravan’s handbrake.
4. Put chocks behind caravan’s wheels.
5. Lower the jockey wheel out of travel position (or reattach to the A-frame if removed) and lock it into position.
6. Unplug the caravan’s electrical lead(s) and, if applicable, the breakaway cables.
7. Lift the coupling latch into the vertical open position and raise the jockey wheel to take the van’s weight off the coupling hitch.
8. Disconnect the safety chains and drape over the A-frame so they don’t drag on the ground.
Don’t let the safety chains and electrical leads drag on the ground (Image John Hughes)
9. Pull the tow vehicle away and replace the cover on the hitch.
10. Use the jockey wheel to adjust the level of the caravan’s front and rear.
11. Lower the van’s corner steadies/legs — please note, most of these are not designed to level the van, only to stabilise it. Adjust the heights as needed.
Top tips
Get a demonstration
If you’re picking up your van from the dealer, get them to demonstrate how to hitch it up to a tow vehicle. Towing equipment does change over time, so it’s good to get a refresh from the experts.
Reversing your vehicle
It’s much easier doing this if you’ve got someone with you, particularly if you aren't on level ground. Make sure your jockey wheel/coupling body is raised up higher than the tow ball before you start reversing and take it slow and steady.
If possible, it's a good idea to get someone to help you reverse up to your caravan (Image Steve Kealy)
Weights and ratings
It’s important to make sure your tow vehicle is capable of pulling your van when its fully loaded. The maximum tow ratings and tow ball load ratings can be found in the vehicle manual or (sometimes) stamped on the tow bar.
Your caravan’s tare weight (when empty) can be found on the compliance plate, but it is important to know how much it weighs when fully packed for a trip. The best way to do this is to go to a public weighbridge or a professional weighing service to get your entire setup weighed.
A towball weight scale can be used to check the down-ball weight of the caravan, which can vary depending on how much you pack onboard.
Check out this feature for more information on caravan weights.
Other towing legalities
If your van has electric brakes (which are becoming increasingly common in Aussie vans), then you should have a suitable brake controller fitted to the tow vehicle with controls that are easily accessible from the driver’s seat.
Caravans that weigh more than 2000kg are required to have a breakaway system fitted as a safeguard. Breakaway systems are most commonly designed to work with electric trailer brakes, but there are others available on the market if required.
Safety chains are also a legal requirement and must be connected to your tow vehicle with D-shackles that have the appropriate weight rating to suit both the chain and the ATM of your van when loaded.
By law you must be able to see down the entire length of your tow car and van. If you are towing a large van this may require you to use towing mirrors which will extend your visibility while driving. There are plenty of options available, from permanent replacements such as the MSA 4x4 Towing Mirrors or removeable options that fit onto your standard mirrors (such as the ones by Milenco).
Towing mirrors may be required to see down the entire length of your car and van combo
Last minute checklist
With so many things to think about when hitching up the van, it’s common to forget about a few essential items.
Here’s a quick checklist of things caravanners (both first time towers and veterans) often forget to check:
- Turn off the gas
- Pack away the van’s entry step
- Put the stabiliser/corner legs in travel position
- Close all the hatches and lock all doors/lockers/tunnel boots and toolboxes
- The hitch is properly connected and locked into position
- Anderson plug, trailer plug and (if applicable) camera are all connected
- Safety chains are connected (not too short, not too long)
- Handbrake is released
- Jockey wheel is secure
- Remove the chocks or levelling ramps
While you might be tempted to rush through the hitching process, it’s important to take your time and dot all the I’s and cross the T’s. Forgetting to remove the chock from your wheel might be quickly noticed when you try and drive away, but many a driver has forgotten to connect in the Anderson plug or safety chains or latch their door only to realise when the damage has been done.
Pre-departure checklist
If you're someone who likes a checklist to tick off as you complete every task before leaving camp, here you go:
THE NEXT STEP
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A guide to hitching and unhitching your caravan