When it comes to outback station stays, Mount Ive has something for everyone.
Rain, rain, go away
The rain fell as we quickly departed South Australia’s Gawler Ranges National Park and made a dash for Mount Ive Station. The roads were still holding up well with the rain, just enough to stop the dust and coat the camper in a thin layer of mud. You can’t miss the entrance to Mount Ive, especially with a submarine parked out the front.
The campground was empty with the wet weather keeping the grey nomads on the bitumen. It was a shame as the roads were still open and in good condition, and Mount Ive is a great place to be stranded for a few days if the access roads are closed for a short period. There is so much to see and do, with the ace being able to access stunning Lake Gairdner.
Arriving in time for happy hour was a bonus, with the bar open from 5–7pm every day. This is a great opportunity to chat with fellow travellers and station workers. There was a group of kiwis staying, Team NZ, who were attempting to smash the world land sailing record on Lake Gairdner. It was great to hear how they were going, and the challenges faced especially with so much rain falling recently.
Lake Gairdner
The next morning the weatherman was incorrect, with the predicted 8mm of rain for 10am not eventuating. We took the opportunity to pay $90 ($45 per vehicle) for the map book, which provides access to Lake Gairdner (via a key), and several station tracks for the time of our visit. We then headed out to the lake in the hope of taking some amazing photos. Unfortunately, some rain arrived, and the dark clouds made it difficult to capture good shots of the white salt lake. The good thing is you can access the lake as many times as you like during your stay.
Seeing so much water on the lake was amazing, yet the salt crust was still as solid as a rock and easy to walk on — although gumboots would have been handy. After spending a couple of hours at the lake, which included checking out the Team NZ yacht (a work of technological art), we made our way back to the homestead, but not before taking a couple of detours.
The first detour was to The Embankment, a stone dam wall constructed in 1892. It was a brilliant piece of architecture that still holds water back after all these years. Our next stop was to check out some organ pipes. It is a grade three walk to view these stunning geological rock formations, with some rock hopping and a short climb to the best viewpoint.
On the homestead driveway, we parked at the graveyard that contains two graves, the children of Dan Ross, who was the station manager in the late 1800s, before walking up the hill to find the ancient gamma holes used by Aboriginals for water. Carved out of the rock, the holes collect water whenever it rains, providing a valuable water source.
Exploring the station tracks
1. Billy Can Drive — allow 2–3 hours:
This is a scenic drive with some slow sections through the dry creek beds and there is a nice little detour to view some small rhyolite columns (organ pipes). We climbed some of the station hills and then drove along the valleys, spear grass dancing in the breeze. It was so tall in places that it was difficult to follow the track and complex to spot the kangaroos until the last minute as they blended in so well with the yellows of the spinifex and grass and the grey-green saltbush. Herds of goats would also disappear into the tall grass.
Wildflowers were abundant along the drive. This was a special time to visit with such a wet spring, and we also spotted a male emu with seven or so chicks. This drive is highly recommended and suitable for high-clearance 4WD vehicles only.
2. Wombat Holes — allow 1–2 hours:
Located close to the homestead, this short drive takes you past several well-established wombat holes and you may even be lucky enough to spot one on the hunt for roots and leaves. You’ll be amazed at how many holes there are and how large some of them are. The views across the saltpan are excellent and the silence is serene — it is a great place for reflection. This drive is accessible to 2WD vehicles in dry weather.
3. The Pillars — allow 1 hour:
Here you will find one of the best rhyolite column displays in the Gawler Ranges and they are easily accessed with 2WD vehicles during dry weather. It is only a short walk up the creek bed and you can climb up the hillside to view the organ pipes up close.
4. Mount Ive Summit — allow 2–3 hours:
This challenge is for experienced four-wheel drivers with high-clearance vehicles and is not recommended when wet. The views across the property and Gawler Ranges are superb from up here and you might even find a couple of bars on your phone if you’re with Telstra.
5. Mount Scott — allow 2–3 hours:
This is a cracking drive with a slow, steep and rocky climb up to the peak that offers spectacular views that rival those seen from the Mount Ive summit. It is rated as medium, and a high-clearance 4WD is required. Watching a sunrise or sunset from up here would be perfect.
6. Flight Path — allow 4–5 hours:
Honestly, this is my pick of the bunch. It has everything, with epic vistas, low-range driving, geologic wonders and did I say epic vistas? Throw in kangaroos, emus, and plenty of goats and I even spotted my favourite lizard, a thorny devil hiding in the crack of a rock.
Take your time on this drive, the track demands it. A high-clearance 4WD is required and being able to lock it into 4x4 is a must. Also, if rhyolite columns are as fascinating to you as they are to me, you’ll get to see loads of them. The lookout offers breathtaking views across the Gawler Ranges and Peterlumbo Hill is a standout.
7. Horseshoe Loop — allow 3–4 hours:
Another cracking drive with some tough challenges along the way. Some of the creek crossings are tough, with the first one safer with someone spotting you through the tight rocky corner and rock step. Stop often to enjoy the views or listen to the birds in the trees. Check out Red River where fast-running water has eroded the banks. A giant eagle's nest is spectacular, but please don’t climb the tree.
You’ll spot old telegraph lines alongside a section of the track and the handmade gidgee fence posts that are still standing. This is an outstanding drive through the hills with many stunning vistas.
Final words
Mount Ive Station was originally established as a pastoral lease in 1864 by Price Maurice and has been owned by Len and Joy Newton and their family since 2002. In that time, the Newtons have improved the station stay facilities immensely and the camping experience is wonderful. With access to Lake Gairdner and several station drives of varying difficulty, you can enjoy some quality time at Mount Ive Station.
Travel planner
Region: Gawler Ranges, South Australia.
Nearest town: Port Augusta is located 196km west of Mount Ive Station.
When to go: The cooler months from April to September are the best times, but access may close after rain.
Accommodation options: Mount Ive Station provides bush camping, powered and unpowered sites, Shearers’ Quarters (BYO bedding), stone rooms and a self-contained stone hut.
Facilities: Unleaded and diesel fuel, limited supplies at reception, bar, wi-fi, camp kitchen.
What to take: Compressor and tyre gauge, tyre repair kit, first aid kit, firewood, food and water.
Difficulty: Some of the self-drive tracks require high-clearance 4WDs and reduced tyre pressures. The road to Mount Ive and the track onto Lake Gairdner are suitable for all vehicles.
CONTACTS
P: 08 8648 1817
E: info@mtive.com.au
FAST FACTS
Billabong Waterhole: This remote infinity pool is an excellent spot to cool down on a hot day, with tables and chairs making it an ideal picnic spot as well.
Bush golf: A 10-hole short course has been created and clubs can be hired from reception.
Recreation room: The perfect place to read a book and chill, challenge the grandkids to a game of table tennis or test your skills on the dartboard.
Use UHF Ch 7 (duplex) to contact the homestead in an emergency.
The bar: Open seven days from 5–7pm — enjoy a cold can, a glass of wine or a coffee while chatting with the locals. Limited supplies can also be purchased from reception. Wi-fi should now be available thanks to Starlink and even the staff are excited about that.
THE NEXT STEP
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Mount Ive Station, South Australia | Outback station stay