From red cliff lookouts and historic river towns to safari wildlife, wineries and the Murray Mouth near Goolwa, this relaxed South Australian road trip offers unforgettable moments at every bend.
Robert Louis Stevenson once wrote, “I travel not to go anywhere, but to go. I travel for travel’s sake. The great affair is to move.” Those words echoed through my mind as I began my journey along the Mighty Murray Way, a more than 2500km scenic route that follows Australia’s greatest river from Renmark in north-east South Australia to the meeting of the Murray River and the sea at Goolwa.
Having recently completed the drive, I can attest this is a route where the journey (not just the destination) truly shines. With sweeping cliffs, wetlands, historic towns, wildlife, wineries, ferries and peaceful campsites, the Mighty Murray Way is South Australia at its most relaxed.
Using one of the many ferries that cross the Murray River in South Australia is a bit of fun
Starting the Mighty Murray Way: Renmark
Renmark was an inviting place to kick off this river road trip. Set among vineyards and river gums, the town blends heritage and modern flavour. Twenty Third Street Distillery was my first stop, housed in a century-old distillery that has been transformed into a vibrant tasting space. The distillery’s gin, vodka, brandy and whisky are worth sampling, and tours run daily.
Wilkadene Woolshed Brewery is another popular spot on most days. Situated on the banks of the Murray River, it’s a truly beautiful spot. You can sample a few of the brews, and on the weekend, rotating local food trucks set up in the car park.
Twenty Third Street Distillery, based in a century-old building, has some tasty samples
Wilkadene Woolshed Brewery is only a short drive from Renmark
By chance, I stumbled upon Headings Cliff Lookout. Located not far from the brewery, this lookout has a tower that offers stunning views of the river and the colourful cliffs. Keep an eye out for the lookout sign on Murtho Road — you don’t want to miss the views.
I was blown away by the stunning colours at Headings Cliffs
The Olivewood Historic Homestead and Museum offers insight into the early years of irrigation in the Riverland region. From the Renmark Visitor Information Centre, you can join a river cruise aboard the restored 1911 PS Industry paddle steamer on selected days and learn about the boat’s rich heritage as its paddles churn.
Where to stay:
- Discovery Parks – Renmark Riverfront: Riverside sites, grassy sites, clean amenities, friendly staff, tennis court, resort pool, plenty of activities for the kids and refer to the website for dates when pets are NOT permitted.
- Plush’s Bend RV Park: Shady RV and caravan sites along the river, close to Renmark, for $10 per night, self-contained only (must have fitted grey water tanks plumbed), online bookings are a must, and pets are allowed on leashes. Non-potable water, boat ramp, seven-night maximum stay.
Great riverside sites at Discovery Parks – Renmark Riverfront
Berri, Monash and Barmera
Travelling towards Berri, the Murray River opens into a maze of backwaters rich in birdlife. Families will enjoy a stop at Monash Adventure Park before arriving in Barmera. Lake Bonney is famous with photographers for its brilliant sunrise and sunset skies.
After you’ve checked out the lake, don’t miss one of my favourite stops nearby: Banrock Station Wine and Wetland Centre. While the wine is excellent, the environmental restoration work here is the real star. Wetland restoration, bird hides and walking trails make it a top spot for nature lovers.
The kids will love Monash Adventure Park
Banrock Station is a great spot to stop for lunch
Lunch among the waterbirds at Loch Luna Game Reserve was a simple pleasure. A whistling kite circled overhead as pelicans and cormorants squabbled across the water. Just up the road is the historic Overland Corner Hotel, built in 1860. The hotel is steeped in frontier stories, including one of Captain Moonlight riding his horse into the old bar.
Where to stay:
- Lake Bonney Campground — North Lake: Lakeside camping from $7.50 per night, no facilities or rubbish bins, spectacular sunsets, bookings via the council website. There are only a small number of formalised camp sites, and they vary dramatically in size. Pets are permitted. There is drinking water and a dump point at the RV park in Barmera.
- Discovery Parks – Lake Bonney: Lakefront sites, friendly staff, water park, two pools, canoe hire, plenty of activities for the kids and a short walk to town.
- Barmera RV Park: Walking distance to the main street of town, suitable for self-contained caravans and RVs, toilets, potable water, a dump point and dogs on leads are allowed.
You can hire paddleboats at Discovery Parks – Lake Bonney in Barmera
Waikerie to Morgan
Heading further west, Waikerie is a colourful river town known for its silo murals, clifftop walk and nearby Gluepot Reserve, a haven for birdwatchers. The riverfront is a lovely place for a picnic or a leisurely stroll, with lawned areas, shade trees and houseboats drifting by. From here, head north-west via Ramco and Cadell Valley roads, as you’ll enjoy views of the Murray River, grape vines and fruit trees. This route is a far nicer drive than the Goyder Highway. As you close in on Cadell, follow the signs to the historic town of Morgan and enjoy catching the ferry across the river.
Waikerie has cashed in on the silo art trend
Morgan is a town many travellers bypass, but it is absolutely worth a stop. Once one of South Australia’s busiest river ports, Morgan’s historic wharf and railway station precinct have been restored and form part of the self-guided Morgan Historic Walk.
The historic Morgan Port has been renovated back to its former glory
Morgan has many historical sites to explore
Where to stay:
- Morgan Conservation Park: Campsites situated along the Murray River for $14.90 per vehicle, no facilities. Lots of birdlife, including regent parrots, pelicans and white-faced herons. Accessible to 2WD vehicles, but some campsites are sandy.
- Morgan Riverside Caravan Park: Sits right on the river, grassed shady sites, clean facilities, pet friendly and only a short walk to town.
Base yourself at the Morgan Riverside Caravan Park to explore the area
Swan Reach, Blanchetown and High Cliffs
Leaving Morgan on the Murraylands Road, I ventured south to Blanchetown to see Weir and Lock One, then continued on the same road to Swan Reach. There is a great free riverside campsite at Tenbury Hunter Reserve, and you can catch the ferry as a passenger to grab a meal at the popular Swan Reach Hotel, with its stunning river views.
Murray Weir and Lock 1 in Blanchetown
Heading further south, there’s another popular free camp at Walker Flat. The stretch of road from Swan Reach to Walker Flat is defined by enormous ochre cliffs that rise above the bends of the Murray, especially around Big Bend, where several lookouts offer stunning views over the river.
The cliff views at Big Bend are stunning
Ferries are a unique part of the Mighty Murray Way, and you’ll use several to cross as you follow narrow riverside roads lined with gum trees and holiday shacks. These small crossings add charm to the journey and make it easy to explore both sides of the river.
Where to stay:
- Tenbury Hunter Reserve, Swan Reach: Free riverside camping, flushing toilets, bins and a dump point. (Latitude -34.5620180, Longitude 139.6000740)
- Swamp Hen Reserve, Walker Flat: Riverside free camping, flushing toilets, BBQs, bins. (Latitude -34.7519780, Longitude 139.5613600)
- Hettner Landing, Walker Flat: Riverside free camping, flushing toilets, tables, bins. (Latitude -34.7506790, Longitude 139.5545270)
These guys loved the free camp at Walker Flat
Mannum: Paddle boat country
Arriving in Mannum, I headed straight for the Mannum Dock Discovery Centre and joined a cruise aboard the historic PW Mayflower, South Australia’s oldest operating paddle wheeler, built in 1884. As pelicans drifted by and whistling kites soared overhead, it felt like stepping back into the golden age of river travel.
Back on land, Mary Ann Reserve is home to a memorial to Captain Charles Sturt and a flood marker tree showing generations of rising waters. A short drive away is Mannum Waterfalls, where exposed granite and striking geology make it a spectacular walk even when dry.
The geological features of the Mannum Waterfalls are stunning
Where to stay:
- BIG4 Mannum Holiday Park: Riverside views, outdoor dining area with barbecues, kids playground, canoe hire, tennis court and a short walk into town.
- Purnong Riverside Reserve Camping Area: Next to the ferry crossing, 32km east of Mannum, flushing toilets, barbecues, picnic area. (Latitude -34.8549780, Longitude 139.6152770)
- Haythorpe Reserve Camping Area, Mannum: Picturesque free camping, no facilities. The floods severely impacted this site. (Latitude -34.9083260, Longitude 139.3242910)
- Bolto Reserve Camping Area, Mannum: Riverside camps paid via a ticket machine (cash and card) at $10 per night, flushing toilets, boat ramp. (Latitude -34.9161800, Longitude 139.3156520)
Bolto Reserve is on the opposite side of the river to Mannum
Murray Bridge, Monarto and Langhorne Creek
Back on the Mighty Murray Way, the town of Murray Bridge appeared with its historic river crossing and lively riverfront. From here, take a worthwhile detour west to Monarto Safari Park. As one of the largest open-range zoos in the world, Monarto offers an unforgettable wildlife experience across vast open plains.
Board the free Zu-loop bus, which circles the park all day, allowing visitors to hop on and off at any stop. It makes exploring a breeze and gives you time to spend exactly where you want to. It was thrilling to see rhinoceros grazing across the grasslands, along with elephants, giraffes, lions, African wild dogs and cheetahs. The sheer space the animals enjoy and the natural style of their habitats make every sighting exciting.
Burma the Asian elephant loves to entertain
After ticking off the safari experience, press on toward Langhorne Creek, one of Australia’s oldest and most underrated wine regions. Here you’ll find Angas Plains Wines, a small family-run winery and cellar door producing standout tempranillo alongside renowned shiraz. It is the kind of place where you can chat with the winemaker, taste something unique and feel part of the region.
Where to stay:
- Frank Potts Reserve, Langhorne Creek: Low-cost camp at $5 per night, shady sites, flushing toilet, rubbish bins.
Goolwa and the Murray Mouth, where river meets sea
Tracking around the western edge of Lake Alexandrina, the final stretch leads to Goolwa and Hindmarsh Island. While here, check out Goolwa Wharf and the PS Oscar W paddle steamer before heading to Hindmarsh Island to see the Charles Sturt and Collet Barker Monument.
For the adventurous, join Canoe the Coorong on one of its guided kayak tours; the Coorong Sunset Tour is highly recommended. Paddle across the mouth of the Murray to Younghusband Peninsula and enjoy some time exploring the beach that few get to tread. After a picnic of local cheeses and seasonal fruit platters, you’ll paddle back as the sun sets.
Canoe the Coorong’s Coorong Sunset Tour is a ripper and highfly recommended
Goolwa Wharf has plenty to offer
Driving to the Murray Mouth is well worth the effort but it is 4WD only
Many travellers end their journey at Sugars Beach on Hindmarsh Island, but with a 4WD you can reach the actual Murray Mouth via Goolwa Beach. Standing where the river finally meets the Southern Ocean is the perfect finale to the Mighty Murray Way. After days following the river through cliffs, wetlands, ferries, heritage towns and vineyards, watching the water surge through its final opening feels symbolic. The journey is as rewarding as the destination, just as Stevenson suggested.
Where to stay:
- Discovery Parks – Goolwa: Recently renovated park, clean facilities, grassed sites, ensuite sites, plenty of activities for the kids.
Discovery Parks – Goolwa was a real surprise and a wonderful place to stay
Mighty Murray Way travel planner
Road conditions
- Sealed for the majority of the route
- Gravel along Murraylands Road (optional route from Blanchetown to Swan Reach) and riverfront tracks
- Frequent ferry crossings (free, 24 hours)
The free camp opposite Swan Reach is busy, so it’s best to get there early in the day for the prime spots
Fuel and supplies
- Renmark, Berri, Waikerie, Morgan, Mannum, Murray Bridge, Goolwa
More Information
Find out more about the Mighty Murray Way road trip here.
Don’t miss
- Paddle boat cruise at Mannum
- Lookouts at Headings Cliff and Blanchetown
- Monarto Safari Park wildlife experience
- Free camping at Walker Flat
- Sunset photography at Lake Bonney
- Goolwa Beach drive to the river mouth
Cruising the river on an old paddleboat is a great way to explore
Useful contacts
Angas Plains Wines
317 Angas Plains Road, Langhorne Creek
P: 08 8537 3159
E: info@angasplainswines.com.au
Banrock Station Wine and Wetland Centre
Holmes Road, Kingston
P: 08 8583 0299
Canoe the Coorong
P: 0424 826 008
Gluepot Reserve
P: 08 8892 8600
Loch Luna and Moorook Game Reserves
Mannum Dock Discovery Centre
6 Randell Street, Mannum
P: 08 8569 0810
Monarto Safari Park
63 Monarto Road, Monarto
P: 08 8267 3255
E: information@zoossa.com.au
Olivewood Historic Homestead and Museum
205 Twentyfirst Street, Renmark
P: 08 8586 6175
Renmark Visitor Information Centre
84 Murray Avenue, Renmark
P: 1300 661 704
Sunset where the mighty Murray River meets the Southern Ocean
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