A caravanner could not ask for a more stunning outlook from Rawnsley Park Station
The Flinders Ranges, the spine of ancient stone running through South Australia, are more than mountain ranges — they are a geological phenomenon.
Known for their rugged beauty and diverse, striking colour palette, which varies with the time of day and from season to season, the iconic Flinders Ranges have long been regarded as one of the most magnificent destinations in Australia. And with the 95,000-hectare Ikara-Flinders Ranges National Park lying in the heart of the ranges, there’s plenty to see and do.
And for us, as relatively new additions to the grey nomad tribe, the Flinders Ranges was very near the top of our extensive Aussie travel bucket list.
The contours of the Flinders Ranges can be akin to a crocodile skimming its surface
First stop: Gateway to the Flinders Ranges
After driving across the Nullarbor from our home state of Western Australia, we headed for our first campsite at Spear Creek Holiday Park, set in the middle of a working sheep station on the edge of the Flinders Ranges.
The family-owned Spear Creek Station, which fittingly describes itself as ‘the gateway to the Flinders Ranges’, is located 25km southeast of Port Augusta, making it an easy addition to any road trip along the south coast.
After reversing our trusty Urban offroad caravan into an unpowered bush camping site nestled in an ancient grove of river redgums, we unhitched and stepped into the peaceful ambiance that the Flinders is synonymous with.
Exploring our little spot in the middle of this expansive 8500hectare property, we meandered along the nearby Spear Creek Trail (one of the two main walking tracks on the station). There, we spotted our first resident echidna, whilst marvelling at the view and enjoying the evening chorus from some of the 85 species of birds, including wedge-tailed eagles and peregrine falcons, who call Spear Creek home.
An abundance of space at 'The Island' site at Spear Creek Holiday Park
Next stop: Quorn
After our first night of relaxing into the ranges, we headed less than an hour up the road to the quiet and quirky town of Quorn.
After setting up at the picturesque and centrally located Quorn Caravan Park, we decided there wasn’t a moment to waste in this character-filled spot, and at sunset we walked across the railway line (yes, you can do that in sleepy Quorn!) and made a beeline for the silo art light display, which could easily be the best drive-in picture show on Earth.
Running every night of the year, this free, award-winning attraction springs to life under the stars, offering an audiovisual celebration of the Flinders, together with beautifully crafted local stories steeped in the historic railway town and its surrounds.
Ironically for us, given we were exploring the driest state in the driest continent on earth, during an extreme drought, the heavens opened as the production began. Fortunately, the downpour was short, and we sat there captivated by the stories of the region, enjoying this informative visual masterpiece being beamed to us on a single silo canvas.
Ruth Gourley and Matt Tompsett seek isolated adventures
Jumping aboard the delightful Pichi Richi Railway
Quorn is also home to the remarkable Pichi Richi Railway, a 39km heritage steam railway which is run by dedicated and enthusiastic volunteers. To our delight, we soon discovered that riding this restored steam train is like being dropped into a bygone era, as we immersed ourselves in the journey to Woolshed Flat, coasting past gum trees and rust-red ridges on the enjoyable two-hour return journey.
After returning to the 21st century, we popped into the Flinders Ranges Visitor Information Centre, where we were greeted by several volunteers who couldn’t have been more helpful in offering us guidance on local attractions.
Their advice saw us wandering down to the nearby Powell Gardens on the eastern edge of town, a pleasant spot for a stroll, with short walking trails winding through the collection of native plants, grasses and groundcover, nestled amongst a variety of local fauna.
The Flinders Ranges canvas for sunset
Into the Ranges — the Ikara (Wilpena Pound) experience
Next up for us was Wilpena Pound, known as Ikara to the Adnyamathanha people and widely considered the crown jewel of the central Flinders. It’s a major geological and cultural landmark known for its distinctive, almost circular shape amid the surrounding rugged mountain range. Viewed from the air, it’s also very obviously a natural amphitheatre encircling a sunken basin, a landform so breathtaking that it’s not surprising that dozens of scenic flights are on offer to visitors each day.
At Arkaroo Rock, located within Ikara (Wilpena Pound), ochre paintings sheltered in a natural rock alcove tell the Adnyamathanha creation story. It’s accessible via a 3km walk, with many tours led by Traditional Owners who share not only stories, but perspectives on how to navigate this land with care and understanding.
Also, just to the north of the Ikara (Wilpena Pound) lie Bunyeroo and Brachina gorges, ancient corridors etched through stone. Brachina’s self-drive route is a timeline of Earth itself, with markers pointing out formations older than multicellular life — enough to make anyone’s head hurt while directing a car through 650 million years of history!
We found that wildlife abounds here too, and we were lucky enough to spot wallabies, emus, euros and the occasional wedge-tailed eagle gliding overhead.
A welcome rest-stop overlooking Wilpena Pound from Rawnsley Bluff
Offbeat towns and top stops
Blinman
Next, we ventured north of Ikara-Flinders Ranges National Park into quaint Blinman, where we took ourselves off on the self-guided walking tour to learn more of its heritage, at the same time discovering that this historic destination is actually South Australia’s highest town.
The Blinman Heritage Mine tour was also an experience. An initiative of the Blinman community, this 10-year in the making project involved extensive excavations to access old tunnels that were once worked by the Cornish miners in 1862.
Guided by locals and offering a raw, firsthand look at life underground in the 1800s, the hour-long tours combine a unique theatrical presentation using light and soundscapes. There is also an above-ground self-guided walk with interpretive signage, which we completed in approximately 50 minutes, that complements the underground experience.
The iconic Prairie Hotel in Parachilna
Just a short drive (20 minutes) from Blinman, following the 19th century copper ore ‘wagon route’ as it winds through the undulating red rock cliffs of Parachilna Gorge, you’ll find the famous Prairie Hotel. Without doubt, this is more than a pub, it’s an iconic outback destination all to itself. Known for its signature ‘Feral Feast’ meals, the menu serves up camel, goat, kangaroo and emu in creative ways (and yes, there are veggie options too, with Aussie natives such as finger limes and quandongs making an appearance). Set against the backdrop of the dusty plains, with wide verandas, cold beer and huge outback skies, it might not be for everyone, but it’s certainly a memorable experience.
In a world of your own, overlooking Parachilna Gorge
Mount Chambers Gorge and Alpana Station
About 60km northeast of Blinman lies Chambers Gorge / Marlawadinha inbiri, also known as Mount Chambers Gorge, which is situated in the locality of Wertaloona, and which turned out to be one of the quietest and most extraordinary places we visited. The site is home to dozens of Adnyamathanha petroglyphs, etched into stone thousands of years ago. Unlike ochre art which can fade or wash away, these engravings remain deeply carved into the landscape. There’s no signage, just towering red cliffs and the sound of silence.
Conveniently, we accessed all these spots while staying for an entire week at Alpana Station, which offers bush serenity and room for even the largest caravans, along with a dose of old-fashioned Flinders Ranges hospitality. There are unpowered, powered and ensuite sites available, giving you the best of both worlds.
The off grid site, Oleander at Alpana Station delivered the ultimate Flinders silence
The perfect setting at Alpana Station's Oleander campsite
Upon arrival, we had the pleasure of being greeted by Sally Henery who, along with her husband David, was a font of knowledge on the local area, as you would expect from a fifth generation Henery. The family has managed the historic station since 1878, when David’s Irish great-great-grandfather decided he could make a living on the land by growing fodder for the bullock teams hauling copper ore from the Blinman Mine to Port Augusta.
Now a working sheep station, Alpana makes a great base camp for exploring the central Flinders, whether that’s with your 4WD or hiking boots. Access to the station is 2WD-friendly, with a fully sealed road from Ikara (Wilpena Pound), but there are some great self-drive or guided 4WD tracks on the station if you want to kick the Flinders Ranges experience into the next gear and enjoy some breathtaking views.
Heading into the Flinders Ranges’ far north — Arkaroola Wilderness Sanctuary
If, like we were, you’re up for more adventure, the deep gorges, stunning ochre hues and remote ridgelines of Arkaroola Wilderness Sanctuary are not to be missed.
Located in the spectacular Northern Flinders Ranges adjacent to Vulkathunha-Gammon Ranges National Park, the 610-square kilometre award-winning Arkaroola Wilderness Sanctuary was founded by the Sprigg family in 1968. It continues to operate to this day with a strong emphasis on science, education and conservation, focused on preserving this priceless and unique wilderness for future generations.
With a geological history reaching back almost two billion years, this ancient landscape also has an extraordinary human history. Frequented and featuring in creation stories by Indigenous peoples for tens of thousands of years, the area was later brought to the attention of the modern world by the late Australian geologist, Antarctic explorer and academic, Professor Sir Douglas Mawson OBE FRS FAA.
The sanctuary’s signature guided 4WD Ridgetop Tour is an unforgettable experience. Drive through a landscape as old as the continent itself, across razor-back ridges and peaks of the Flinders’ most rugged mountains, to the magnificent climax at Sillers Lookout. With views that seem to curve with the planet, it’s not hard to see why this impressive tour has thrilled visitors of all ages since 1969.
This is just one of the 4WD tracks on the property. There’s the option to do a guided ‘Sleepout Tour’ on the ridgetop, or if you prefer to go it alone, there are around four 4WD self-drive tracks and six hiking trails of varying length.
And it’s not necessarily early to bed after a day of four-wheel driving, either. Night brings even more intrigue: Arkaroola’s three astronomical observatories allow you to peer deep into the Milky Way, unmarred by light pollution. Put simply, this destination is not only remote and wild — it’s unforgettable.
Where to stay in the Flinders Ranges — station stays and bush camping
While we opted for some station stay experiences this trip, free camping options are scattered generously across the Flinders Ranges, often in stunning, secluded spots along creek beds or nestled beside ancient gums.
Popular choices include:
- Parachilna Gorge Campground, which offers shady sites and easy access to scenic walks
- Aroona Ruins Campground (not to be confused with Aroona Campground on the northern edge of the Flinders), where the views at sunrise are particularly special. As the name suggests, it has easy access to the Aroona Homestead ruins, and is on the Heysen Trail, allowing you to experience a piece of this iconic 1200km walking trek through SA.
- Chambers Gorge Campground, a peaceful and remote spot which we completely loved.
Rawnsley Park Station was also a favourite of ours. Located on the southern side of Ikara (Wilpena Pound), it’s a fourth-generation sheep and now tourism station with unpowered bush camping, powered sites, facilities (including hot showers), a bunk house, holiday units and even eco-villas for those wanting a break from the van. There’s even dog-minding, a pool and a shop offering groceries, souvenirs and fuel.
The shear scale of the Flinders dominates the outlook from Rawnsley Park Station
Mount Little Station is a fantastic base for day trips to Parachilna, Blinman, Hawker and Ikara-Flinders Ranges National Park, all of which are accessible via scenic drives within an hour of the property. It's a working sheep and cattle property run by Kellie and Peter Zadow, who greet you at their homestead alongside a number of orphaned baby goats, friendly station dogs and even a donkey. We stayed at site 22 on the 9712-hectare property (aka Mt Little Gully). One of the treasures of this spot is that it offers private access to stunning Mayo Gorge and the Elder Ranges, both great for short hikes, marvelling at rock formations and soaking up the panoramic views.
Site 22 offered a quiet corner and easy access to the 4wd self guided drives at Mt Little Station
Remote sites offer solitude and silence at Mt Little Gully campground, Mount Little Station
And then there’s Skytrek Willow Springs Station, an approximately 28,300-hectare sheep station only 21.5km from Ikara (Wilpena Pound). This station offers self-guided 4WD loops and bush camping on a classic working station. There are a limited number of unpowered campsites, but they suit all setup styles from 2WDs through to motorhomes; just let the station know what you’re travelling in when you book. If you’re travelling without your van, there’s a range of accommodation options available from the homestead through to the shearer’s quarters. The range of self-guided 4WD treks includes the iconic and challenging 80km Skytrek Track, so if you're looking for an offroad adventure, Skytrek Willow Springs Station is one of the best places to go.
Magical sunset views from Stokes Hill at the entrance to Skytrek Willow Springs Stations.
With a bit of self-sufficiency and total respect for the land, these campgrounds offer the chance to truly immerse yourself in the serenity of the Flinders Ranges — no crowds, no noise, just nature at its best.
The roads of the Flinders Ranges
We found the road conditions throughout the Flinders Ranges were varied but well maintained, with a mix of sealed roads, firm gravel tracks and the occasional rocky or corrugated section. A high clearance 4WD is essential for venturing out and exploring the more remote areas and station tracks and always drive to the conditions and your experience levels.
A word on wildlife
Without doubt, part of the magic of the Flinders Ranges is the likelihood you will enjoy its wildlife up close.
This also means that we all have a duty to protect wildlife, by driving with care when in their backyard. We found that kangaroos, emus, wombats and other animals are often on or near the road, especially at dawn and dusk, so staying alert and slowing down helps keep them (and us) safe.
Our top tips for van travellers
Best season |
Visit in March–May or August–September for the best weather. Summer is brutally hot. |
Fuel |
Don’t gamble. Fill up at Hawker, Leigh Creek or Blinman. Carry extra if heading to Arkaroola. |
Water |
Assume limited supply. Carry more than you think you need. |
Connectivity |
Coverage is spotty, so let someone know your route and when you expect to be in certain locations. Bringing a personal locator beacon (PLB) or satellite phone is a good idea for peace of mind and safety. |
Respect |
This land isn’t just scenic, it’s sacred. Learn the stories and leave no trace. |
From the peak of Mt Little, the Flinders landscape appears stunningly Martian
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