As the sun sets at Redbanks Beach, the towering cliffs reveal their true colours. The Cleve District is a hidden gem on South Australia’s Eyre Peninsula and offers what many travellers seek but rarely find — untouched coastline just minutes from rural heartland.
The Cleve District invites you to slow down and discover Australia at its most authentic, where natural beauty remains uncrowded and unhurried.
Tucked between rugged peaks and a mangrove-lined coastline, the Cleve District offers a refreshing slice of South Australia for those who dare to detour off the well-trodden route. About a 1 hour 45-minute drive (approximately 150km) south-west of Whyalla, this welcoming region on the Eyre Peninsula blends coast-to-peak beauty with genuine community spirit.
In under an hour, you can travel from Arno Bay’s fishing spots, cruise past Cleve’s golden paddocks and wind your way up Carappee Hill near Darke Peak — the Eyre Peninsula’s highest summit. With such variety packed into short drives, it’s an ideal destination for caravanners keen to explore without the crowds.
And while the landscape draws visitors in, it’s the region’s character and welcoming locals that make people stick around. From waves on the road to chats at the pub or the stories behind Peter ‘Turtle’ Crosby’s metal sculptures, the connection runs deep. In the Cleve District, you won’t just pass through — you’ll feel part of something.
From coast to peak in 45-minutes
Cleve: A town of unexpected treasures
Imagine being one of 160 like-minded travellers rolling into Cleve with 80 offroad caravans in tow. After a week off the beaten path, they arrived to find a small town that felt like a second home. You might come to Cleve seeking a quiet reprieve from the long roads, but what if you discovered something unexpected: genuine country hospitality and connections that make you want to linger a little longer?
Cleve is a great basecamp for exploring the Eyre Peninsula
When these Trakmaster Off-Road Caravan Club members arrived, the Cleve community greeted them with open arms. After setting up camp, they swapped dusty boots for running shoes at the local parkrun. They cheered on weekend footy, and even joined a community barbecue fundraiser. By nightfall, the country pub brimmed with laughter and shared stories. Not like those flashy event centre or theme park experiences; this was the everyday warmth of a town welcoming visitors as friends.
This was precisely the experience these seasoned road explorers represent. For visitors like them (and like you), the reward of the journey isn’t just the sunset at the campsite — it’s the warmth waiting at the end of the road. With plenty of easy parking, friendly faces and that unmistakable country-town hospitality, it’s no surprise visitors end up staying longer than planned.
Cleve Playspace
Arno Bay: The coast less travelled
You might arrive bone tired from a long drive, but find Arno Bay is exactly what you were hoping for: A tidy seaside town sitting halfway down the Spencer Gulf on the Lincoln Highway.
Arno Bay Foreshore
Today, this coastal gem rewards those who take the turn-off. The award-winning Mangrove Boardwalk winds through one of South Australia’s most southerly mangrove ecosystems, following estuaries once used as fish traps by the Barngarla and Nauo peoples, the Traditional Owners of the region. For something different, follow that path to the estuary’s edge — at high tide you’re walking above glassy waters teeming with fish and marine life. Here you wander through flooded salt flats alive with birdlife, watching whiting and mullet flash beneath your feet.
Just beyond town, the historic jetty is a popular spot for fishing — especially for squid at dusk — and a front-row seat to the sunset over the Gulf. It’s one of those sights you can’t help but photograph: ochre-banded sandstone melting into turquoise Gulf waters. This is the Eyre Peninsula coast at its most authentic, without the crowds that gather at better-known spots. Whatever you planned — fishing, beach walks or birdwatching — Arno Bay makes it feel like this coast was found just for you.
Arno Bay Jetty
Darke Peak: Small town, big sky
Darke Peak lies under a sky so wide it swallows the town whole. Darke Peak offers something many travellers chase but seldom find — a true outback feel, just a short drive from the coast. Coming in from the north, low rollers of the Darke Range rise on the edge of vast golden fields. A relaxed scenic drive loops around these low hills, with easy stops like the short Federation Hill walk that give you a 360-degree sweep of the plains. By late afternoon, travellers often meet at the Darke Peak Hotel over a cold beer. It’s a beloved outback pub (they even rent powered camping spots), and its warm firepit will have you lingering.
For the adventurous, the highlight is Carappee Hill just north of town: a short but steep 4.6km trek up an ancient granite outcrop. Carappee Hill towers above the surrounding plains, offering one of the most rewarding hikes on the Eyre Peninsula. From the summit, you’re treated to panoramic views that capture the essence of the region.
Afterwards, the little town welcomes you back as if to say, “you’re home.” You might find yourself at the pub again, woodsmoke swirling overhead or camped by your van sipping tea under a sky full of stars. Darke Peak may be small on the map, but with that big sky overhead it gives you exactly the peaceful contrast an offroad traveller craves.
Thanks to minimal light pollution — and vantage points such as Carappee Hill and Federation Hill — the area offers some of the best stargazing in the region. Gaze up to see the Milky Way in striking clarity or catch a meteor shower lighting up the horizon.
Carappee Hill offers fantastic views of Darke Peak
Local legends and must-visit attractions
It’s not just the landscapes that leave a mark in the Cleve District — it’s the stories. Here are some must-visit spots to uncover some of the legends of the Eyre Peninsula.
Erica the Emu (Darke Peak)
In the early 1990s, a wild but amiable emu named Erica became a regular at the Darke Peak Hotel, famously known for helping herself to patrons’ beers and swallowing loose coins and cigarettes from the bar. Today, her legend lives on in a life-sized metal sculpture by Peter, made from old farm machinery and standing proud outside the pub.
The Hellbent Hotel (Darke Peak)
When the local pub was forced to shut on New Year’s Day 1984 due to a licensing issue, locals weren’t about to let the celebrations stop. Instead, they built a makeshift ‘pub’ — the ‘Hellbent Hotel’ — in a corrugated iron shed across the road. It served drinks and defiance until the real bar reopened, and the shed still stands as a quirky community shrine to the town’s larrikin spirit and resilience.
Wangaraleednie Monument’s Somber Tale (Cleve)
This simple monument tells a powerful story. Alongside honouring the region’s early European settlers, it lists 42 local men lost in World War I — a significant number for a district of fewer than 800 people at the time, highlighting the impact of global events on this small community.
More local gems:
- The Super Shed, Arno Bay: This historic 1912 grain shed is now a treasure trove of maritime artifacts, vintage machinery and community history.
- Arno Bay Heritage Mural and mosaics, Tel El Kebir Terrace wall: Colourful artworks that showcase the town’s heritage with pride.
- Dolphin Statues, Arno Bay: Iconic foreshore landmarks perfect for a quick snap, with two at Tel El Kebir Road/Cairo Terrace corner and one at the highway entrance.
- Metal Sculpture Trail, Cleve: From Bonnie the Clydesdale to Reggie the Wedgie, these recycled metal artworks celebrate the region’s rural roots with flair.
Reggie the Wedgie in Cleve
When the journey becomes the destination
After days on the road, the Cleve District offers something special — a chance to pause, breathe and settle in. Whether it’s watching the sun slip behind the horizon at Arno Bay, swapping stories over a pub meal in Cleve or simply parking under a gum tree and listening to the quiet, this is the kind of place that makes you want to linger.
With remote beaches, scenic trails and a local welcome that’s second to none, the region has a way of turning stopovers into highlights. Add in sheltered estuaries perfect for kayaking and fishing, plus easy boat access to Spencer Gulf, and you’ve got a destination that makes the journey feel complete.
Redbanks Beach features stunning red cliffs and turquoise waters
Day drives and trails
Cleve Hills Scenic Drive
This 22km loop offers a perfect snapshot of the district’s coast-to-peak diversity. Starting in Cleve, the road winds through working farms and up into the surrounding hills, where scenic lookouts reveal sweeping views — on a clear day, all the way to Spencer Gulf. It’s an easy hour-long drive, but the landscape shifts with the light: spot kangaroos and emus in the early morning, see the colours of the land pop at midday and catch long shadows and golden tones as evening sets in.
Cleve Hills Scenic Drive
Arno Bay Mangrove Boardwalk
This award-winning 1.4km boardwalk winds through mangrove ecosystems, offering a peaceful, up-close look at life between land and sea. Raised above the tidal flats, it’s a haven for birdwatchers — more than 30 species have been spotted here — and a great spot to observe fish moving with the tides. Interpretive signs share insights into the traditional Barngarla fish traps and the volunteers who brought the boardwalk to life. Bring binoculars and take your time — it’s a quiet, thoughtful way to connect with this unique coastal environment.
Arno Bay Estuary Boardwalk
Arno Bay Coastal Boardwalk
This 1.2km accessible track runs from the Arno Bay boat ramp to family-friendly Turnbulls Beach, offering sweeping views of Spencer Gulf and coastal dunes. It’s a great spot for birdwatching — keep an eye out for the endangered eastern osprey. From Turnbulls, continue on to Redbanks Beach (another great spot for swimming and fishing), where vivid red cliffs and turquoise waters create one of the region’s most striking coastal scenes.
Arno Bay Coastal Boardwalk
Darke Peak Range Loop
Winding through rugged granite hills that dominate this area, this gravel road (suitable for 2WD in dry conditions) offers stunning views of ancient rock formations rising from the plains. For those up for a hike, the trail to Carappee Hill — the Eyre Peninsula’s highest point at 495m above sea level — rewards with sweeping 360-degree panoramas, revealing the district’s remarkable diversity in one glance. Late afternoons are ideal, when the low sun casts dramatic shadows and brings the landscape to life.
Yeldulknie Weir Trail
This easy 5km walking and cycling trail links Cleve to the historic Yeldulknie Reservoir, the Eyre Peninsula’s first major water project, with construction beginning in 1912 and finished in 1913. The relatively flat path winds through native bushland, offering chances to spot birds and small reptiles along the way. Rest areas and interpretive panels share the story of the weir’s engineering and its vital role in the region’s growth. At the reservoir, enjoy a peaceful picnic with sweeping views of the countryside.
Yeldulknie Weir Trai
Local tips and frequently asked questions
Road safety
The Cleve District’s roads range from sealed highways to gravel tracks — take it slow on unsealed sections, especially after rain. Wildlife is most active around dawn and dusk, so stay alert and reduce speed during these times. Distances between services can be longer than they look, so top up your tank whenever you can. Cleve Roadhouse stays open until 8pm, while Cowell offers 24-hour card-operated fuel facilities.
Stay connected
Mobile coverage is reliable in the townships but can be patchy between them. Telstra provides the strongest coverage; Optus/Vodafone are limited outside Cleve. We recommend downloading maps before heading into remote areas. Free Wi-Fi is available at the Cleve Visitor Information Centre and local libraries.
Where to stay with a caravan
The district offers two main caravan spots in the area:
- Cleve Showgrounds RV Park is centrally located with 30 powered sites, featuring hot showers, a camp kitchen and a dump point — all within walking distance to town.
- Arno Bay Caravan Park sits beachfront with full facilities ($33 standard, $35 peak — prices current in June 2025, check before arrival), sea views and easy access to the jetty and boardwalk.
Cleve Showgrounds RV Park
What makes this region surprising?
Visitors often remark on how much variety is packed into such a small area — coastal mangroves, golden wheat fields and rugged granite peaks all within a 45-minute drive. But it’s the warm welcome that truly stands out. Here, you’re not just a visitor; you’re a welcomed guest. Whether it’s an invite to a local event or a friendly tip that leads to a secret spot, these personal connections turn a trip into something unforgettable.
Why choose Cleve over famous destinations?
It’s the chance to escape the crowds and discover something real. Beaches where you might be the only visitor, hiking trails without queues at the picture-perfect spots and locals who welcome you like an old friend. Cleve offers a rare kind of experience — beautiful landscapes and communities untouched by busy tourism.
Is the detour worthwhile?
Sticking to the highways means missing the heart of places like this. A short detour from main routes delivers experiences that often become trip highlights — standing atop Carappee Hill with views to the horizon, watching sunset turn Redbanks cliffs to flame or joining locals at the Cleve Hotel for insights no guidebook provides.
When is the best time to visit?
Each season offers different experiences: Spring (September–November) brings wildflowers to conservation areas and comfortable temperatures for hiking. Summer (December–February) is perfect for beaches and fishing, though inland temperatures can rise significantly. Autumn (March–May) offers stable weather, reliable road conditions, harvest activity and excellent fishing conditions. Winter (June–August) sees fewer visitors — perfect for those seeking solitude — with occasional rains turning the landscape lush and green.
Plenty of fishing opportunities throughout the region
A quiet corner worth the detour
So, leave the well-trodden paths behind and explore the wonders of Cleve — a region all about slowing down, appreciating the wonders of the Australian landscape and finding genuine community connection. It’s a quiet corner worth your time.
To find out more, head to the Cleve District Council website or contact the team on 08 8628 2004.
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