Point Peron (Image City of Rockingham)
Western Australia’s Rockingham proves itself as Perth’s premier adventure park.
There’s a natural allure to Rockingham. Located 40km south of the Perth CBD, the laid-back coastal suburb is often overlooked as a getaway location to others further afield north and south. But why go long distances when there is much to do on Perth’s doorstep?
Rockingham holds its own as a great place for water-based activities and marine encounters. The city attracts a healthy population of wild dolphins and sea lions in the fringing Shoalwater Islands Marine Park, which is peppered with rocky islands, serene beaches and reefs. When the winds are in, windsurfers fly the sky, joining migrating birds lured to ‘Rocko’s’ shores.
On land, the seaside hub offers relaxed eateries, cultural events and foreshore happenings. Within close reach is the Royal Australian Navy’s largest base HMAS Stirling, Garden Island, the popular hiking spot Serpentine-Jarrahdale and coastal hub Mandurah, its sister city.
The beach at Rockingham
There’s a lot to do in this neighbourhood — let’s explore, shall we?
Flirting with flippers
As a Perth city slicker, I feel embarrassed to admit I had long snubbed this coastal neighbourhood. Not anymore.
It was an early start to my two-day getaway in the ‘south’. I grabbed a quick bite nearby at the casual eatery, Jaffelato: its name a dead giveaway, selling gourmet jaffles and coffee. I succumbed to my fondness for grease, ordering a jaffle-inspired cheeseburger toastie. In hindsight, it was perhaps a bit too gluttonous for a 7am start and not quite the right thing to stomach before boarding a boat, but it was so tasty!
Post brekky, I was diving into Rockingham literally by getting into the water with local tour operators, Perth Wildlife Encounters. Departing from Rockingham’s beautifully revitalised (and colourful) foreshore area (more on it later), I hopped on the luxury custom-built 15m vessel Apollo 3, joining a dozen or so swimmers ready for a swim to remember.
In the water to see the dolphins at play (Image City of Rockingham)
We looked like a cult of human seals donning full black wetsuits, set to jump into Cockburn Sound’s Shoalwater Islands Marine Park. The tour company offers half-day tour cruises to swim with Rockingham’s friendly grey torpedoes — the kind the neighbouring navy base is happy to tolerate. The tours are conducted in small groups, allowing snorkellers to get close to dolphins safely and responsibly. And what a day to do it with conditions more than ideal: the sun was out, the weather was comfortably warm and the water a gorgeously clear aquamarine hue.
The boatload was separated into two groups for tandem swimming with dolphins. Not long after departing and disbanding, a small pod was spotted. We got into formation at the boat’s steps, resembling a human chain holding onto each other’s waistbelts, waiting eagerly for the go-ahead.
Once instructed to jump in, it all became manic. Heads below water; we were floating in single file to see dolphins at play. The guide’s underwater scooter helped us manoeuvre quickly, keeping up with darting flippers. Dolphins came and went within metres, and hearing their squeals only added to the thrill.
The excitement wasn’t limited to underwater; observing the dolphins from the deck, spotting them breach and watching other snorkellers be among the fins made for a thrilling watch. There was ample opportunity to splash, rotating chances for close encounters. Soon, the dolphins got bored of our curiosity and outpaced us. For lunch we enjoyed a healthy spread of salads, cold meats and locally sourced Fremantle octopus — a delicacy in Perth — before returning to Rockingham Jetty.
Swimming with bottlenose dolphins (Image City of Rockingham)
Paddle in the park
Wildlife spotting continued while kayaking in the marine park with Capricorn SeaKayaking. The locally owned tour operator offers guided half-day adventures on a double kayak, paddling to Shoalwater’s famed islands — Penguin and Seal — 700m to 1km offshore. Both islands attract their fair share of wildlife and marine life: Penguin Island attracts many seabird species, including a dwindling bluish-grey little penguin population (a rare sighting if you see one) and a pelican colony, whereas Seal Island attracts Australian sea lions.
Sea lions on Seal Island (Image City of Rockingham)
The marine park is a perfect place to paddle, with the water usually calm. I was grateful we were floating for the day: temperatures were in the mid-30s, and the gentle sea breeze provided a cool respite. After paddling for roughly 30 minutes, we arrived in the waters surrounding Seal Island. Access to the island’s white sandy shores is forbidden as it is already occupied by a row of sunbathing sea lions.
Still, I put on my snorkel mask and entered the water at a safe distance from nearby sleeping giants. The water felt so heavenly. Rockingham is a snorkeller’s paradise with easy access shallow reefs and fields of seagrass. While green may be the dominant colour, I could spot a few spider crabs and postage-sized, neon-patterned nudibranchs.
For those who like scuba diving, 200m offshore from Rockingham Beach is the Churchill Park Dive Trail. The shore dive trail features four small shipwrecks, two aeroplanes and children’s play equipment, reaching 6m and 17m in depth.
If paddling power or getting wet isn’t your thing, there is another way to get close to Rockingham’s wildlife. Perth Wildlife Encounters offers one-hour dolphin, penguin and Australian sea lion cruises. It includes a five-minute boat ride to Penguin Island — the largest in Shoalwater Marine Park — and a half-hour guided walk to get close to the island’s abundant bird life frolicking on its rocky earth. There’s a boat change to venture around the marine park, sailing past Seal Island and Bird Island with bridled terns and cormorants.
Standing at the tip
Rockingham’s other rugged jewel is Point Peron/Boya Kaarla (also known as Cape Peron). Located at the southern end of Cockburn Sound, the rugged headland is popular for its hideaway beaches and snorkelling along limestone cliffs, reefs and outcrops. I snorkelled over large expanses of seagrass, excitedly spotting a stingray’s tail. I stayed close to shore, enjoying my underwater discovery session in calm waters. More colour was spotted in the point’s fringing reefs, filled with bright sponges and hard corals.
Point Peron (Image City of Rockingham)
There are many layers of history to unravel at Point Peron. A World War II gun lookout is perched on a hill opposing the Navy facility on Garden Island. And if we go back much further in time, the point has been a place of cultural significance for the local Whadjuk people for thousands of years.
I joined Whadjuk man and guide Steven Jacobs on a 90-minute small group tour (In Culture Tours) to discover the region’s connection to Country. Thousands of years ago, Point Peron was once the gateway used by his ancestors to Rottnest Island, connected by a thin strip of land that has since been submerged metres below. Nowadays, the point is heaped with cues from the past.
Coastal walk at Point Peron
The In Culture Tour trip starts with a smoking ceremony
The tour started with a smoking ceremony along empty sandy shores before moving to bushland.
“We are in the supermarket of bush tucker and medicines,” Jacobs said as we had a little nibble on native tall grasses; the taste reminded me of leek. Moving from the bountiful green garden, we headed around the cape where Jacobs shared insights into his family history. Jacobs’ family lineage is a gripping story, and his use of pictures and citizenship documents is a poignant reminder of how much society needs to progress on Indigenous issues.
We continued our coastal walk, admiring sea stacks dotted metres from shore. At each stop, Jacobs filled us in with a personal anecdote or Dreamtime story. Standing on limestone outcrops, Jacobs ground quartz rock, using pigments to make white paint for ritual purposes.
Around the bend, we made our way onto the rocky shore. I stood at the tip of multiple small pools of water. Jacobs pointed out their significance as gnamma holes, used as a water source for his ancestors. I was blown away, conjuring thoughts of those who once breathed life at this point and hung onto Jacobs’ words; he is a remarkable storyteller.
Unwind and reflect
Wildlife spotting continued on an afternoon stroll around Lake Richmond, a four-minute drive from the Rockingham foreshore precinct. A flat 3km walking trail borders the lake, with a large portion traversing through bushlands. The lake — thick in suburbia — attracts a large population of native Australian birds and reptiles, such as darters, pelicans, black swans, tiger snakes and the southwestern snake-necked turtle. It is also one of the few places in the world to see critically endangered thrombolites, one of Earth’s oldest forms of life.
Lake Richmond (Image Tourism WA)
The pulse of Rockingham is found along the foreshore: expansive grassed areas dotted with barbecues and a colourful wooden boardwalk rims its tranquil waters. No wonder it is a ideal spot with families and low-key catchups; it’s a relaxed spot on land and at sea. I took advantage of Rockingham Beach’s perfect conditions, hopping onto my SUP for a gentle paddle. I even spotted another grey resident lurking under my board — a stingray — and did my best to avoid any more interactions.
Out of the water, I headed to upmarket eatery Rustico for an early feed. The award-winning restaurant is an institution along the city’s cafe strip, much loved for its $85 five-course tapas degustation menu. Tapas and share plates can also be ordered à la carte, which I selected and feasted on Fremantle octopus escabeche, barramundi churros (a welcomed innovation) and fried goat’s cheese.
Rockingham's beautiful foreshore precinct
I called it a night at Cee & See Caravan Park. It is conveniently located across the road from the foreshore and just a few minutes drive from the dining precinct, with a range of camping sites available including grassed and concrete powered sites and unpowered sites. As I retreated to bed, I thought about starting the following day with a short walk along the beach, a hop, skip and jump away. I guess that’s the charm of Rockingham; nature and wildlife are all on its doorstep.
Fast facts
Perth Wildlife Encounters
153 Arcadia Drive
Shoalwater WA 6169
P: 08 9591 1333
E: info@dolphins.com.au
Capricorn SeaKayaking
153 Arcadia Drive
Shoalwater WA 6169
P: 0427 485 123
E: bookings@capricornseakayaking.com.au
P: 0456 140 398
E: inculturetours@gmail.com
Cee & See Caravan Park
2 Governor Road
East Rockingham WA 6168
P: 08 9527 1297
E: ceeandsee@cbh.com.au
Rockingham Visitor Centre
19 Kent Street
Rockingham WA 6168
P: 08 9592 3464
THE NEXT STEP
If you want to learn the latest caravan news, find the most innovative new caravans and camping gear or get inspired to plan outdoor adventures to some of Australia's best getaway destinations, subscribe to our weekly newsletter. We promise to send you only the best content.
Related articles:
Enjoy life's pleasures in the Swan Valley, WA
A guide to the eclectic attractions of Fremantle, WA
Exploring the best of Rockingham, Western Australia