Fremantle is a mishmash of everything — old, new, bizarre and artful — and that is what makes it Perth’s most exciting region to wander on foot.
It’s always fun to visit Fremantle/Walyalup. Affectionately known as ‘Freo’ the eclectic port Western Australia city, 22km south of Perth, has a vastly different feel than the CBD. First, its heritage is on show, with the town populated with beautifully preserved Victorian-era buildings. Street art murals, live music, quirky venues, and hole-in-the-wall spaces add to the city’s colourful tapestry. Its atmosphere just exudes hip and carefree.
Fremantle embraces its past while welcoming expression and change. Old sheds have been reimagined as mega-brewhouses, and character homes are now spaces to socialise. Its two jails are eerie places to roam — or enjoy concerts. There’s a lot to see in this vibrant city, and even as someone who grew up close by, I am still unearthing its riches, both old and new.
Stepping into the past
Fremantle’s treasures go beyond its founding date in 1829. I began my weekend urban adventure at the WA Shipwrecks Museum, housed in a former Commissariat building once used for storing supplies. Relics from ill-fated voyages along Australia’s Indian Ocean coast dating back centuries fill its high-ceiling rooms.
The WA Shipwrecks Museum
Its prized jewel is the remnants of one of Australia’s infamous shipwrecks, the Batavia. The Dutch ship met its gruesome fate in 1629, when it became wedged in Morning Reef in the Houtman Abrolhos Island en route to modern-day Jakarta. The boat was carrying more than 300 people, and the aftermath of its carnage on corals merits a Hollywood blockbuster: mutiny, murder, heroic actions, brazen escapes and treasure chests. Remarkably, the mystery of Batavia’s whereabouts was solved when it was found in 1963, with the ship largely intact with large ship fragments and many silver coins retrieved from ancient troves.
Remains of the Batavia on display at the WA Shipwrecks Museum
\Another of Fremantle’s most fascinating attractions is the UNESCO World Heritage listed Fremantle Prison. Built in the mid-19th century, the imposing limestone lockup is one of the largest surviving convict-built prisons in the world. Once a place of hangings, floggings, escapes, and an infamous prisoner riot, the former maximum-security prison is considered one of the state’s most haunted sites.
Fremantle Prison
The prison offers multiple tours, but to better understand the everyday life of an inmate, I opted for the Convict Prison guided tour. The tour runs for more than an hour and visits the main cell block, the Convict Establishment. Its perplexing prisoners endured these tiny sleeping quarters, some rooms only 1.2 metres by 2.1 metres with a toilet bucket on the floor and a mattress I imagine was as comfortable as cardboard. As we journeyed through its communal areas, I wondered how many people sat in its dining hall, mingled in its outdoor courts, lacking gardens, lacking inspiration.
The tour offers the option to enter the gallows, where 44 prisoners met their unfortunate fate. I decided to peek-a-boo at the eerie scene, afraid that if I saw more, my mind would conjure scenes that would haunt me. Oddly, the prison has recently become a concert venue, with happy memories hoping to outweigh its heavy past.
A walk around town
Not all of Fremantle’s history is doom and gloom. Once we were finished at the prison, it was time to get perked up twofold. After grabbing a coffee at the corner upmarket sandwich bar, Peggy’s, I joined ‘Oh Hey WA’ on a walking tour. My tour guide, Adie Chapman, can be best described as a walking rainbow. With her bright attire, she perfectly embodies Fremantle’s quirky character.
Esplanade Park
The three-hour tour begins opposite Peggy’s and meanders through heritage streets. Along the way, Adie pointed out the city’s ever-evolving canvas and distinct culture and ethos as we strolled leisurely to the end of hip High Street. Adie’s storytelling was far from boring, and her enthusiasm was infectious as she recaptured the city’s local heroes and lesser-known history.
We were met with despair, with 12-sided Round House looming over the two-lane street. The oldest public building in the state was initially built as a gaol, with eight cells within its towering limestone walls. After the construction of a much bigger Fremantle Prison, the gaol was used as accommodation and a storage facility. Now, it lives on as a tourist attraction.
On a side note, the coastal landmark boarding Bathers Beach offers free tours led by volunteer guides. The short tours delve into the gaol’s fascinating past and include an exciting cannon display starting at 12:45pm daily.
Our discovery on foot continued along Fremantle Fishing Boat Harbour, where we were greeted by the winds of the ‘Freo Doctor’. As we passed harbourside fish and chip institutions, Cicerello’s and Kailis Fishmarket Café, my eyes darted between water and white paper-wrapped feasts. As tempted as I was, I knew many bold flavours awaited me in Fremantle’s booming restaurant and bar scene.
Brews in the city
Consider Fremantle brew town. Along the harbour is one of the city’s iconic venues, Little Creatures. I still remember visiting the enormous grey shed as a child with my grandpa when it was once a crocodile farm — in retrospect, a very peculiar attraction to have along the harbourfront. Traces of its past are still evident today, with original infrastructure such as chain-link fencing wrapping its second storey overlooking the colourful mess hall below.
Today, the mega-brewery is spread across three sheds. It’s not hard to miss brewers walking around in their hi-vis, darting behind colossal stainless-steel vats on both sides of the venue, the beer-making process visible to all. Little Creatures also offers 90-minute brewery tours, including a tasting paddle for $33 per person. I bypassed the paddle to order a pint of Elsie — a specialty WA Ale — and consumed it in the harbourfront beer garden.
Less than a kilometre walk away is the state’s largest thirst trap, Gage Roads. The Australian-owned waterside brewery is housed in the historical B-shed with lofty red and white container cranes across the harbour. It’s a breath of fresh air enjoying a pint while watching cargo ships stacked with containers resembling colourful Lego blocks slowly pass by. For many, it’s free entertainment.
Speaking of entertainment, on opposing ends of the venue are activities for the young and old. The little ones can enjoy a WA-theme playground with relic fixtures and a tugboat-turned-playground under the shadows of a ‘King Waves Thrill’ sign — an ode to the Insta-famous and sinister signage nearby Carnarvon warning of monster waves. As for adults, they can be kept amused, testing their arm coordination with a drink in tow playing cornhole. A lot of fun for everyone.
A city of good taste
Fremantle does not lack options for great places to dine — it’s even in the name of its main drag, Cappuccino Strip (or, for GPS purposes, South Terrace). The vibrant strip is the beating heart of Fremantle’s social scene, with tables sprawled outside venues and wafts of wood-fired pizzas, pastas, and share plates bound to entice. Even if walking without the intent of eating out, it’s hard not to be tempted, seeing the masses occupying outdoor tables and enjoying the good life.
To be amid the hustle and bustle, head to Fremantle Markets. It first opened in 1897 and is one of two markets in the country that occupies the same building for its original purpose. Walking without motive is one of my favourite pastimes in the market. The atmosphere is always lively and not offensively loud; my senses went into overdrive, gazing at fresh foods, either hawker eats or neatly displayed local produce. And it’s never uncomfortably bumper to bumper with hungry-eyed tourists. Outside, particularly on weekends, crowds amass around street performers, heightening the excitement felt within the market’s vicinity.
The historic Fremantle Markets opened in 1897
I headed to High Street, which has morphed into Fremantle’s premier eat street. The street is peppered with trendy eats in its elegant historic buildings. Ode to Sirens is the latest hip eatery to open. The vinyl record bar caters to all drinking palates with its extensive wine, beer, and cocktail list. However, I was absorbed in its Greek-centric shared plates, such as lamb yiros and haloumi saganaki. My food was as colourful as the wall of record shelves around me. There seemed to be good taste all around.
The pointy end
There are a few caravan parks nearby Fremantle, including Discovery Parks – Woodman Point, 9km south of the port city. The caravan park borders Woodman Point Regional Park, its large tuart trees attracting migratory birds and a thriving quenda population. The latter decided to keep its whereabouts a mystery on my morning stroll to Jervoise Bay Beach (15 minutes from the accommodation). The seaweed-strewn dog beach isn’t the nicest for swimming: beach time best saved for Woodman Point Jetty. One of the best things about Western Australia is its gorgeous beaches, and if you want to check out more of the options around the city of Fremantle, head to Port Beach, which is conveniently close to the tourist hub of the city and has great views of Rottnest Island, or Leighton Beach in North Fremantle, which is a great spot for swimming and snorkelling, or bring your picnic blanket and the kids and enjoy a relaxing day on the sand.
Fishing off Woodman Point Jetty
Stretching nearly 100m into the Indian Ocean, the dock is also known as ‘Woodman Point Ammo Jetty’ for its previous life as a Quarantine Station and ammunition jetty. It’s popular with snorkellers for its seagrass meadows, sea sponges, and marine life. Snorkellers can continue their exploration 2km north following the Coogee Maritime Trail, which includes the shore-based Omeo Shipwreck.
The jetty stretches 100m into the ocean
This time around, I was staying dry, walking along the jetty at sunset. It was a warm evening, and the sporadic gusts of the Fremantle Doctor were a welcome respite. Edging closer to the pier’s end, both sides of the dock were dotted with fishers trying their luck, too occupied with reeling in their next meal. Those who were rod-less (including myself) were taken aback by a lone pelican patrolling the jetty, nonchalant about human activity. The pelican’s carefree factor perfectly sums up Fremantle, where anything goes.
Fast facts
Discovery Parks – Woodman Point
P: 08 9434 1433
E: woodman@discoveryparks.com.au
Fremantle Prison
P: 08 9336 9200
E: info@fremantleprison.com.au
Fremantle Roundhouse
P: 08 9336 6897
E: enquiries@fremantleroundhouse.com.au
Gage Roads Brew Co
P: 08 9314 0000
E: info@gageroads.com.au
Little Creatures Brewery, Fremantle
P: 08 6215 1000
E: functions@littlecreatures.com.au
Ode to Sirens
P: 0433 462 525
E: info@odetosirens.bar
Oh Hey WA
P: 0408 995 965
E: hey@ohheywa.com.au
WA Shipwrecks Museum
P: 1300 134 081
E: reception@musuem.wa.gov.au
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