Rottnest Island is a must-see for visitors to Perth, but Julia D’Orazio discovers there’s more to see and do than pose for selfies with adorable quokkas.
Wadjemup/Rottnest Island is Perth's favourite island playground. Affectionately known as ‘Rotto’ by locals, it is a convenient ‘overseas’ getaway (after all, it's an effort to get anywhere from Perth!), a short 30-minute fast ferry from Western Australia's eclectic port city, Fremantle.
No wonder this island is a must-visit for folks visiting Perth, as what awaits is a raw paradise. The small island is renowned for its remarkable coastline: blue marble-effect waters sarong its white sandy shores and limestone cliffs. There are six ecosystems on the 19sq km Class A Reserve, and it's easy to traverse them with peddle power, making the island a biker's paradise.
But perhaps the island is best known for its cute furballs that have dominated social feeds. Quokkas rule Rottnest, with the entire island absent of predators. Many make the trip just to get the almost obligatory selfie with the smiling marsupial.
Boastful selfies aside, there's more to see and do on Rottnest than pose with quokkas, making it warrant a longer stay.
Cycling is the best way to get around
Adios Fremantle
Before we get into what Rottnest is all about, I'll delve into how to get there and the ways to best plan your visit. Discovery Parks – Woodman Point is a convenient stay near Fremantle, less than a 20-minute drive to B Shed Terminal. Secure all-day parking is available from $12 per day at Northport in Rous Head (suited for extended stays) or at B Shed terminal for the same price.
Two ferry operators depart from the ferry terminal in Fremantle — Rottnest Island Express and SeaLink — offering multiple departures daily. It is also possible to catch the ferry from Perth and Hillarys Boat Harbour, with departures less frequent and trips longer.
I decided to go on an earlier ferry to make the most of my island getaway, departing at 10am. For the many times I have made the voyage, the boat ride has been smooth, and this journey proves no different: ask me about the return leg, and it's another story — it can be a bumpy ride!
Riding a bike is a great way to explore the island. Bring your own bike for a small fee or save the hassle by pre-purchasing a ferry and bike hire package. Instead of going to the island's only rental store, Pedal & Flipper Hire, have your bike and helmet ready for collection once the boat docks in Rottnest's Thompson Bay. If staying overnight, luggage is delivered to the accommodation, so you can also forget about lugging bags around. Easy.
An island playground
I was on my bike and needed to figure out which of the main attractions to go first. Talk about being spoilt for choice: Rottnest has 63 beautiful beaches and 20 bays, two lighthouses (Bathurst Lighthouse and Wadjemup Lighthouse), hills and lakes to criss-cross, multiple beer gardens and outdoor eateries. For a largely underdeveloped island, it packs a punch.
The Bathurst Lighthouse overlooking Pinky Beach
Before I worked up a sweat with a day of cardio, I headed to the island's main settlement, a short ride from the jetty. The small thoroughfare has one of two supermarkets on the island, gift stores, a chicken takeaway outlet and cafes.
The only peak hour experienced is at the bakery, with snaking (but fast-moving) lines sighted on mornings. It is an island mainstay, filled with nostalgic schoolyard eats (think jam doughnuts, cream buns, vanilla slice) alongside freshly baked savoury goods. Without fail, I opted for a chicken pie and devoured it with the masses on the outside decking area.
Despite plastic doors used to shield quokkas from entering the tempting premise, they still manage to find a way. I enjoyed my morning tea with a quokka at my feet; it slowly carried on its inquisitive journey, becoming a well-received interruption to other patrons’ mealtimes.
Julia D'Orazio and Michael Abson with a cute quokka
This ‘recess’ is just one of the ‘must-dos’ on the island. Other activities involve more exertion: golfing, hiking, skydiving, snorkelling and scuba diving. While I wasn’t going to be skydiving anytime soon, I was keen to see Rottnest from another angle.
A snorkeller's paradise
As much as Rottnest's coastline looks good above water, it becomes even more of a spectacle below. There are roughly 400 fish species, including corals, found in Rottnest Island Marine Reserve.
I headed to the island’s northern end to arrive at Parakeet Bay, a 3.6km cycle away along winding single-lane bitumen roads. It contrasts bays closer to town, such as The Basin, the shoreline resembling a game of towel Tetris. Most beaches and bays are similar: bounded by rocky outcrops, pearl white dunes and dreamy aqua waters.
The Basin, Rottnest Island (Image Tourism Western Australia)
Parakeet Bay’s long stretch (by Rottnest standards) makes it a perfect spot to unwind — but not for long. I donned my snorkel mask to explore its refreshing shallow waters. The largely sandy-bottomed beach has many underwater rocks that teem with marine life. Stingrays are known to frequent here but will remain elusive for my aquatic adventure.
Making the most of my time in the north, I cycled 1km east to Little Armstrong Bay. (There’s so much temptation with beach-hopping that relaxing in one spot is almost sinful!) It's another great spot for snorkelling to see smaller fish out of the bay.
Little Armstrong Bay (Image Tourism Western Australia)
For a more vivid snorkel session, it's best to head south. Parker Point is one of the island's most popular spots for snorkelling. Although the beach attracts crowds, it doesn’t really matter when you are in the water. The beach features a snorkel trail along the reef with 12 plaques identified by buoys with large fish, crays and colourful corals sighted. The underwater concourse leads to other drop-offs; however, it's only recommended for advanced divers.
Henrietta Rocks is one of the best places for avid snorkellers as well. The small offshore wreck 'The Shark' juts out of the turquoise water and is easy to swim to from shore. And if you're looking for another great option for snorkelling, check out Little Salmon Bay.
Henrietta Rocks (Image Tourism Western Australia)
Head above water
Observe wildlife out of the water with a visit to Cathedral Rocks. It's an effort to get there, and cursing oneself for making the call to go there is expected. From Henrietta Rocks, it is a 9.8km cycle over hills and roads absent of shade to reach the iconic lookout point. Half the island is covered in scrub heath, making the scenery barren-like. Thirty minutes later, I was at the most westerly tip of the island, standing on a wooden platform, trying to spot fur seals.
Rottnest boasts a long-nosed fur seal colony, and it's common to see them sunbathing on the rocky island nearby offshore. The seals can also be sighted at Cape Vlamingh, 350m away. To learn more about the island's residents and history, head to the Wadjemup Museum in the town centre.
Housed in an Old Mill and Hay Store, Wadjemup Museum is both stirring and confronting. In its 17 exhibits, it displays 40,000-year-old artefacts, whale bones and relics and details its topography, wildlife and cultural history. Perhaps most importantly, it pays tribute to the island's sordid past. Far from the paradise it is today, the island was once used as an Aboriginal prison. After its closure in 1904, it became a forced labour camp with other prisoners until 1931.
Evidence of its past still stand today. The 19th-century built Quod was used as the main prison building and bears similarities to Fremantle's first prison, the Round House. The octagonal-shaped building has all rooms facing a central yard and is now used as a hospitality venue.
Sleeping at Pinky's
Rottnest accommodation fills up quickly, so it's best to get in early. I stayed at Discovery Parks – Rottnest Island. The park offers eco-camping stays that range from standard to luxe, suiting couples and families. I was in a luxe eco-glamping tent, which includes a bathroom, kitchenette and a private deck with Weber barbecue.
Accommodation at Discovery Parks includes luxury glamping tents (Image Discovery Parks - Rottnest Island)
The tents rest along the dunes of Pinky Beach, with the stunning Bathurst Lighthouse providing a scenic backdrop. It is one of the island's top sunset spots, with the colours against the stoic white beacon a remarkable sight.
The beach is also a great spot for swimming, with the sheltered bay popular with families for its calm waters and long stretch of white sands. I was inclined to head up the wooden stairs and enjoy some bites and casual drinks at Pinky's Rottnest Island. It features multiple venues to relax and recharge with shaded areas and upmarket coastal dining. I sat outside its outdoor kitchen and ordered a cocktail (their speciality) and a few shared plates from its Asian-inspired menu — another way to spoil yourself in this idyllic location.
The Bathurst Lighthouse provides a stunning backdrop to the tents along the dunes (Image Discovery Parks - Rottnest Island)
Where to wine and dine
Days on Rottnest follow a simple schedule — ride, beach, eat and repeat. But the best way to cap off any Rottnest trip is to join in the merriment at Hotel Rottnest. The massive beer garden overlooks Thompson Bay and watching ferry traffic is just part of the enjoyment. Come weekends, the family-friendly venue is a hive of activity, with free entertainment (DJ sets or live music) luring crowds.
I ordered a pint of beer and woodfired pizza and enjoyed my early dinner before departing on the ferry back to Fremantle. Yes, it may only be half an hour away, but I relished this island escape, a world away from the hustle of Perth. And I can't wait to set the next play date.
Sunset drinks at Pinky Beach
Fast facts
Discovery Parks – Rottnest Island
P: 08 6350 6170
E: rottnest@discoveryparks.com.au
Discovery Parks – Woodman Point
P: 08 9434 1433
E: woodman@discoveryparks.com.au
Pinky’s Rottnest Island
P: 08 6350 6170
E: contact@pinkysrottnestisland.com.au
Rottnest Express
P: 1300 467 688
E: reservations@rottnestexpress.com.au
Rottnest Island Visitor Centre
P: 08 9372 9730
E: enquiries@rottnestisland.com
Traditional Owners
The Traditional Owners of Rottnest Island are the Whadjuk Noongar people.
THE NEXT STEP
If you want to learn the latest caravan news, find the most innovative new caravans and camping gear or get inspired to plan your next adventure to some of Australia's best getaway destinations, subscribe to our weekly newsletter. We promise to send you only the best content.
Related Articles:
A guide to what to see and do on Rottnest Island, WA