View to Cape Leeuwin Lighthouse
With an abundance of national parks, spectacular scenery and terrific towns, the South West region of Western Australia, on Wadandi Boodja country, is an idyllic caravanning getaway.
Cape Naturaliste to Cape Leeuwin, also known as the Cape to Cape or Capes region, is so bounteous with natural attractions it must have been at the front of the line when mother nature was granting favours. There’s bedazzling white sandy beaches, world-class waves and fairytale forests. Throw in breweries, vineyards and all manner of restaurants sourcing local produce and you’ll be hard pressed to find anywhere better to explore. With a myriad of caravan parks and camping spots from which to choose, what’s not to love?
Confessions of a camper
I have a confession to make. I’ve called the tiny south-western tip jutting out at the bottom of Western Australia my home for near on 30 years. Yet while we regularly hit the road to camp in our vast state, it’s been more than a decade since I’ve managed to plan a camping trip in the area. As a local, it all seems, well, just too easy. But as a long, relentless summer carried over into a spectacular-for-camping autumn, we dragged the Lotus Trooper out of the garage and tucked the bed tight with fresh sheets. The Cape to Cape region is a bit of a show off when it comes to food and produce and this means I don’t need to stock the fridge, except fresh milk for our cuppa.
Busselton brilliance
Busselton is having a moment. Well, it’s had multiple moments for decades with West Aussie families who have valued the long stretch of sandy shoreline and tranquil, turquoise waters of Geographe Bay. A destination that has delivered holiday memories peppered with tangled fishing lines, salty swims and bommies off the jetty, it’s certainly worth including in your itinerary. It’s the gateway to the famous Margaret River region and a newly activated interstate flight schedule, a foreshore redevelopment, plus a $44 million dollar spend on an entertainment precinct has seen Busselton mature into a hotspot for all types of travellers.
Busselton Foreshore (Image Tourism Western Australia)
The Norfolk pine lined foreshore beckoned us to languish, licking kindergarten-coloured ice-cream. Instead, we dropped into the visitor centre and purchased tickets for the Busselton Jetty and Underwater Observatory. Busselton has a rich history and the heritage listed jetty — the longest timber piled jetty in the southern hemisphere — is the hero. This WA landmark attracts more than 400,000 visitors each year. The bright red tourist train (it makes me think of Play School every time I see it) transports visitors who don’t want to walk to the end. Here, the underwater observatory descends 8m below the sea. It’s a great way to immerse ourselves and we watched as local fish life drifted past the viewing windows and soft Telesto coral danced around the pylons. We opted to walk back and with the sun turned up, I wish I’d donned my swimmers to join the handful of teenagers jetty-jumping into the aqua clear water below. We passed a handful of people fishing and a “woohoo” of joy bounced across the ocean as someone pulled in a flat, silver herring.
Busselton Jetty (Image Tourism Western Australia)
Busselton has seasoned itself with a sprinkle of hip new dining options to add to its salty vibe. Basking beachside, only a fishing rod cast from the jetty, sits Shelter Brewing Co. Its brewed-on-site India Pale Ale, shining golden as it’s poured, was just the ticket to quench our thirst after the stroll. Holiday mode activated.
There’s a plethora of caravan parks from which to choose. If you like to be in the heart of things, try Busselton Jetty Tourist Park, just a stone’s throw from the foreshore. Further out, Southern Stars Holiday Park is in a quiet, farm setting. It’s a great base to from which to explore and is an easy 10–15-minute drive to the smaller seaside towns of Dunsborough and Yallingup where the beaches and dramatic coastline are hard to beat. They offer dog-friendly campsites, and the dog beach is just a five-minute drive away.
The roads are particularly good all throughout the region which makes exploring the area easy. Bear in mind summer and school holidays can be particularly busy, so you’ll need to book ahead at this time of year.
Cows and collectables
From Busselton we headed south on Bussell Highway which is great for towing vehicles and passes through a number of tourist towns. I’d booked a three-day stay at Turner Street Caravan Park in Augusta and the drive took just over an hour. Meandering through local towns en route is an opportunity to provide the milk in the fridge with some company and spoil us with a few holiday treats, like a bottle of gin from The West Winds Distillery and Tavern in Cowaramup.
Cowaramup is affectionately called Cow Town. Bussell Highway runs right through the main street and if you haven’t been here before you may be surprised to see a black and white cow standing on the side of the road. Once you realise it’s not moving and is merely a statue, you’re upon the next one. This quirky country town has 42 fibreglass Friesian cows that have morphed into a tourist attraction and a selfie next to one is udderly irresistible.
It’s a 15-minute cruise from here to Margaret River — Margs to locals — and while we didn’t stop, I’d thoroughly recommend allocating some time to visit the galleries and cafes. A recent bypass diverted us around the town, which is handy if you want to miss the tight main street when towing a van. We’d planned a lunch stop at Witchcliffe, another 15-minute drive south. This ‘blink and you’ll miss it’ town loves collectables, giving it an eclectic old country feel. There’s a fresh-faced bistro in town called Dear Darnell’s that opened at the tail end of 2023. The recycled timber decor and old treasures throughout are a nod to a trading post past. There’s all manner of furniture and relics — even stained-glass windows as skylights — and it’s a feast for the eyes. The menu promised a culinary treat, and the smell of barbecue chicken and woodfired pizzas confirmed the oven specialties.
Curious collectables at Dear Darnell’s, Witchcliffe
Augusta charm
Heading south, new housing developments on the outskirts of Witchcliffe unfold into a distinct rural vibe. Gently rolling paddocks, coloured with a flush of green from the first rains, are dotted with pillow-plump sheep. It’s the perfect prelude to the serene regional town of Augusta, the most south-western corner of Western Australia (and thus mainland Australia) and where the Southern and Indian Oceans meet. My shoulders dropped with all the pristine air.
Like an egg in a basket, the quaint town of Augusta is snuggled alongside the hunter-green lower edge of Leeuwin-Naturaliste National Park and the mouth of the Blackwood River. The longest river in the southwest, and the region’s most significant water source, the Blackwood River is an artery running through the town. It meanders past hanging branches of paperbark trees perched on the edge. It widens into Hardy Inlet, providing the perfect recreational setting for rowers and paddle boarders, before it flows into the choppy waters of Flinders Bay (named after English navigator Matthew Flinders). From June to August, you can spot whales: southern right whales, humpback whales and even the majestic blue whale as they journey past.
Looking across Hardy Inlet, Augusta
Sunrise over Hardy Inlet, Augusta
Other towns may be smug about this proximity to such brazen wilderness, yet there’s no pretence about this town. It’s the kind of place where locals still stop for a chat. It’s genuine. By the first morning, we knew the names of the local dogs we met each time we took our kelpies for a beach walk. By the next, we knew the names of the humans they belong to.
Turner Street Caravan Park is positioned in an enviable position on the banks of Hardy Inlet with grassy sites among plentiful native trees. Their branches hang gracefully, offering plenty of shade for summer relief and shelter for the clusters of wrens. Darting and hopping, their chirps are a quiet alarm clock for the slow mornings here. They’re the only sound that punctuates this idyllic spot, aside from the occasional hum of a dinghy outboard motor as it heads up the Blackwood.
Turner Street Holiday Park setup under the trees
If you can set your body clock to waking with the sun — our dogs make sure we do — it’s worth the chill to witness the sunrise transform the river surface into a beautiful pink, just a few metres from the caravan park grounds. From here, it’s a short stroll along the river-hugging path to the beach. The briny smell of stranded seaweed left behind with the tide is a signal that the wild Southern Ocean and the historic Cape Leeuwin Lighthouse are not far away. On our return, we continued past the caravan park, taking the wooden boardwalk with the Blackwood lapping languidly beneath. We passed quaint holiday shacks sitting riverside with beautiful views of the resident pelicans, private wooden jetties and the occasional fisherman trying his luck.
Seeking sustenance
All the walking justified a decent lunch. The region offers up a plethora of wineries within an easy drive. We could have picked Glenarty Road, a farm-to-table restaurant and cellar door. Perhaps Voyager Estate, with organically certified vintage wine? Or world-famous Leeuwin Estate, famed for not only delectable food and wine, but for its under-the-stars Leeuwin Concert Series that hosts world class acts like Sting and Ray Charles. Despite the temptation, I was hankering for a simple bakery blow out. I’d heard from locals that Augusta Bakery had new owners. I’m declaring it: Augusta’s is up there with the best. Its steak pie is filled with generous chunks of tender meat like my nan made and the pastry is perfectly flaky. Have you ever tried a cruffin? You really should. Shaped like a muffin, filled with vanilla cream, enveloped in the lightest croissant wrapping and finished with a donut-dollop of jam. Delicious. We grabbed a whole apple cake for our afternoon tea and my bakery blow-out was complete.
Ever tried a cruffin?
The Augusta Pub could be declared ‘country pub with the best view’. Accessed from the main street, it’s perched on a hill overlooking the Blackwood River. There’s typical pub fare to choose from and a pizza bar. On Sunday night we dined a good old fashioned Sunday roast is on the specials menu. It sells out fast.
Walking the kelpies along the Blackwood River, Augusta
Cruising caves road
Leaving Augusta, we headed to Hamelin Bay to visit the famed resident stingrays that flap close to shore. It was tempting to pet them, but they are protected by the Ngari Capes Marine Park, so it’s a strict ‘look but don’t touch’ visit. Hamelin Bay Holiday Park is a fabulous option for a beachside stay. Park your van under a canopy of peppermint trees and enjoy the white sandy beach and turquoise waters on the edge of the caravan park.
Hamelin Bay, near Augusta (Image Tourism Western Australia)
The stingrays at Hamelin Bay are a ‘look but don’t touch’ attraction (Image Tourism Western Australia)
The Caves Road tourist drive stretches between the two capes, and we took this way home to Dunsborough. While the road can be windy in places the scenery is worth it. The magnificent Boranup Karri Forest, with towering karri trees standing wise and proud, is a must-see. There are a couple of dirt tracks where you can pull over safely. To stand under these ancient timbers, smelling the earth and craning my neck skyward fills me with awe.
Boranup Karri Forest, Margaret River region (Image Tourism Western Australia)
Towering timbers give way to undulating vineyards. There’s all manner of wineries to choose from: smaller scale, family run establishments through to large scale corporate operations to stock the cellar. We pick Cullen Wines in Wilyabrup. It’s been ages since we visited this 50-year-old winery — one of the area’s originals — and it’s the only biodynamic and carbon neutral winery in the region. Reclining under red umbrellas on the terrace overlooking the vines feels oh-so-Bordeaux, darling. I’m glad my husband was driving because I couldn’t resist a second glass of the sauvignon blanc semillon.
Bellies full, we cruised home. I was tempted to nip into the quintessential beachy town of Gracetown to watch surfers carve lines across the world-class waves. However, the afternoon was fading, and we wanted to be home before dark to avoid the kangaroos. I note Gracetown Caravan Park as a potential future staycation and headed home to park the van back under cover. I don’t even have to empty out the fridge.
Fast facts
Staying
P: 08 9752 1516
E: info@busseltonjettytouristpark.com.au
P: 08 9755 1331
E: bookings@southernstarspark.com.au
P: 08 9780 5633
E: turnerpark@amrshire.wa.gov.au
P: 08 9758 5540
E: bookings@hamlinbayholidayparl.com.au
Playing
The Busselton Jetty is open every day of the week, and a day pass only costs $4. These can be purchased online: busseltonjetty.com.au
The Cape-to-Cape Track is a spectacular coastal walk trail that is well maintained. It runs from the Cape Naturaliste Lighthouse near Dunsborough to the Cape Leeuwin Lighthouse in Augusta. Pick a section to hike and be awestruck by incredible coastal vistas and towering Karri Forests.
If you enjoy having professional guides lead you through the area, check out Cape to Cape Explorer Tours.
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