Greens Pool (Image Tourism WA)
Located in Western Australia’s beautiful Great Southern region, Denmark is a cosy spot filled with natural beauty, distinct flavours and plenty to see and do.
Denmark is in Western Australia’s cosy corner, the official region of Australia’s South West. Forests of varying tree types, idyllic aquamarine beaches and wine country embrace this charming, sleepy town, just like its more well-known (and bigger) nearby counterparts, Albany (54km west) and Margaret River (322km northwest).
While Denmark may trail behind them regarding major tourist destination status within Western Australia, it deserves time and space for contentment rather than just being another town to fleetingly pass through. It, too, is home to distinct flavours, gourmet delicacies, boutique brews and delightful restaurants, and is surrounded by unique, magnificent natural landscapes to make you feel small in the world. Wooden sentinels — jarrah, karri and she-oak forests — loom large; giant boulders are likened to elephants, and some of the world’s tallest and thickest trees are rooted nearby.
Ready to stand in the shadows of giants? Let’s drive.
Valley of the Giants, Walpole-Nornalup National Park
Before we reached the Great Southern’s regional hub, Denmark, 421km south of Perth, my partner and I stopped to visit the Valley of the Giants near Tingledale in Walpole-Nornalup National Park.
The region’s centuries-old natural high rises, better known as red tingle trees, tower up to 75m above the forest floor. The trees are endemic to the region; below their soaring canopy are connections to the former supercontinent Gondwana, a once-conglomeration of India, Africa, South America, Australia and the Antarctic some 65 million years ago. Its native plant species are limited to this small patch of the southwest.
Admire the forest from 40m above ground level (Images Tourism WA)
Visitors can roam the forest of matured roots and gnarly trunks along the free Ancient Empire Walk. Compacted soil and a wooden boardwalk make up the 550m trail meandering through the olden trees at ground level. Some burnt hollow trunks are big enough for a small car to park and take shelter, others bear uncanniness to a family matriarch. The roughly 400-year-old Grandma tingle tree earns its name for its wrinkled facial expressions resembling a prolonged life. I will never tire of seeing Grandma bringing life into this enchanting forest. I’m sure her wrinkles have hardly aged since my last visit a few years ago!
Another way to admire this forest is to walk ‘on air’ the Valley of the Giants Tree Top Walk, hovering up to 40m above ground level. The walk extends 600m, providing a remarkable way to experience these rare eucalypt giants and appreciate being suspended in time. Entry is $21 per adult or $52.50 for a family ticket. It is suitable for children, prams and wheelchairs.
Valley of the Giants (Image Greg Snell)
After the walk, we headed to Nornalup Settlers Park to join locals trying their luck with the rod in the Frankland River. We had success — kind of — with black bream teasing us with their bites. Pity they were undersized, and all catches were returned to the water. The air was calm, and the sun slowly retiring transformed the sky into a pastel palette and darkened the forest on the riverbanks. It was just magical.
Frankland River fishing spot in Nornalup Settlers Park
If time is on your side, I recommend extending a stay at Coalmine Beach Holiday Park, 8km west of Nornalup Settlers Park in Walpole. The park rests along the banks of the Nornalup Inlet, encircled by Walpole’s wilderness.
Elephant Rocks, William Bay National Park
The journey to Denmark continued with a stop for a scenic splash at Elephant Rocks, 18km west of Denmark. This sliver of the southwest coastline in William Bay National Park has had its fair share of exposure on socials and brochure pages, and for good reason. Giant granite boulders sporting shades of red, grey and green, haired with vegetation, are scattered along its turquoise coast, a beautiful blend of colour.
Enjoy the turquoise waters and unique boulders at Elephant Rocks (Images Tourism WA)
The massive jumble gets its name from the boulders having the hallmarks of elephants cavorting at sea (using imagination, of course!). A lookout can be accessed via a short trail from the car park. The trail continues to a sheltered cove, ideal for a refreshing swim (that is when the crowds are away!). If it is too busy, the region’s other scenic swim spot, Greens Pool, is 500m away. It can be accessed across the headland. It, too, is a stunner, with boulders strewn in its clear waters, providing relief from the hard-hitting waves courtesy of the Great Southern Ocean.
Making it to Denmark
We eventually made it to the peaceful town of Denmark, stopping at Strickland Street, the town’s main thoroughfare (excluding South Coast Highway). Satisfying my penchant for savoury snacks was at the forefront of my mind and Denmark Bakery has won its fair share of awards over the years, particularly for offering unusual pie combinations. The small corner store was heaving at lunch. A few white picnic tables are scattered outside. I eventually made it to the front of the line, still undecided, tempted by flavours like Vinda-roo (kangaroo) and Thai green chicken curry. I ended up going for the seafood chowder pie, and while a few scallops and fish swim in a sea of bechamel sauce, it was still so flavoursome.
The township of roughly 6600 people borders Denmark River, which flows into Wilson Inlet. We headed down the road towards the rolling grassed banks to arrive at Denmark Rivermouth Caravan Park, just over a kilometre from the bakery. The family-owned and operated campground offers 110 powered sites right by the water overlooking the forests that align with the inlet. It also offers cruises, kayaks, paddleboards and paddleboat hire through its side business, Denmark Cruise and Adventures
I was keen to move my muscles, so we hired a kayak for an hour of gently paddling along the Denmark River. It’s a pleasant way to soak up the tranquil scenery, observe peppermint and karri trees and journey under the town’s heritage timber bridge. Prefer to stay dry on land? There’s the Mokare Heritage Trail. The 3km return scenic walk or bike ride wraps the river, meandering through the forest. Both are lovely ways to soak Denmark’s peaceful ambience and enchanting surroundings. My kind of therapy session.
Kayaking along the Denmark River
Finding the perfect drops
Denmark has more than just natural assets. We headed to Boston Brewing Co. to soak up the social vibe. It is one of the first brewhouses in the Great Southern region, opening in 2011. The brewery’s drink range takes cues from the region’s geographical makeup and residents on land and at sea, from ‘Peaceful Bay’ session pale ales to ‘Little Wren’ pale ales.
The family-friendly brewery’s grassed grounds are scattered with tables, some made from old wine barrels and other typical mess hall tables. There are a few undercover spaces and a playground for the little ones.
Next up in the drinking stakes was a visit to Singlefile Wines, one of several cellar doors in the area. The award-winning vineyard offers unique tastings to avid grape connoisseurs. We joined the two-hour tour ‘A Sense of Place’ to get a behind-the-scenes look at the vineyard and for a remarkable tasting session, both above and below ground level. We sat around the table in the private tasting room to learn about the state’s biggest wine region, the Great Southern, its sub-regions and grape varieties. Sampling wines adds to the learning experience.
Enjoying the wines at Singlefile
The masterclass finished with a bottle hidden in a hatch in the grounds
The masterclass continued in the vineyard. We were strolling through vines until we encountered a wooden hatch in the ground. What a charming way to continue our journey learning of the estate’s wines — opening the hatch revealed a bottle of one of Singlefile’s finest Great Southern chardonnays alongside two glasses. Sipping on a buttery chardonnay surrounded by soaring forests — that’s my kind of place to cosy up to.
Travel planner
Valley of the Giants Road
Tingledale WA 6333
P: 08 9840 8263
E: ttw@dbca.wa.gov.au
2515 Coalmine Beach Road/Knoll Drive
Walpole WA 6398
P: 08 9840 1026
E: info@coalminebeach.com.au
Denmark Visitor Centre (Denmark Chamber of Commerce)
73 South Coast Highway
Denmark WA 6333
P: 08 9848 2648
E: visitorcentre@denmarkchamber.com.au
Denmark Rivermouth Caravan Park
1 Inlet Drive
Denmark WA 6333
P: 08 9848 1262
E: admin@denmarkrivermouthcaravanpark.com.au
Explore Parks WA: Parks Passes
From $25 for five days per vehicle.
P: 08 9219 9000
E: enquiries@dbca.wa.gov.au
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