Often described as Australia’s most iconic outback drive, the Gibb River Road offers more than gorges and dust as it wanders through the Kimberley’s vast and largely untouched wilderness. But is it caravan friendly?
Mention that you plan on ‘doing the Gibb’, and most caravanners will immediately know what you are talking about. For the unknowing, it’s not a new dance craze. Instead, you are letting on that you hope to travel Western Australia’s notorious Gibb River Road. Note that I said ‘hoping to’ because for some travellers, even after a journey across Australia from the east coast, there’s no guarantee that weather conditions will allow you to complete the trek in the Kimberley region of Western Australia. We discovered this in 2023 when we waited a week at the northern access point for the flooded road to open before deciding to give it a miss.
On our recent return, we completed the journey, and, to paraphrase Roy and HG, it’s the road to take when too many corrugations are never enough. We also added a side trip to Kalumburu, which will be featured online in the coming months.
Tourism Western Australia describes the Gibb River Road as “a moderate 660km dirt track [that] passes through the heart of the Kimberley.” The road was constructed in the 1960s to transport cattle to the ports at Wyndham and Derby. Today, it links numerous working cattle stations and Aboriginal communities in the remote region, many of which offer campsites and shopping for tourists during the dry season (roughly April to September).
An aerial shot of the red Kimberley dust of the Gibb River Road
I don’t know what Tourism WA had in mind with its moderate assessment of the Gibb, but this route has earned a reputation as a vehicle and caravan wrecker and one of our country’s most challenging treks. Every day of our three weeks on the road, we saw at least one van or vehicle heading out to civilisation on a tilt-tray truck.
When researching the Gibb, we found much variety in advice and reports of the experience because conditions can change dramatically with weather events and the amount of traffic. After our failed travels last year, we tackled the Gibb with an open mind, but some of the feedback was pretty dire. One post on the Gibb Facebook page suggested the road was so rough that dozens of discarded tyres were on the 125km between the Pentecost River and Ellenbrae Station. As it turned out, we saw one.
Starting the trek
From the east, the Gibb starts 53km from Kununurra onto the Great Northern Highway, then on the road to Wyndham and runs to the sleepy port at Derby. The busy town of Kununurra has all you need to stock up on provisions for the trip. The journey follows a tarred two-lane country road for the first section to the Pentecost River. Emma Gorge should be on your bucket list, but it’s wise to make an early start to avoid the heat and the crowds. So, it’s best to camp at nearby El Questro Wilderness Park, a half-hour dirt side track and a soft introduction to the rest of the journey. Medium corrugations and river crossings get you in the mood for things to come. Once settled into the vast camping area, there are loads of activities on offer, including a four-wheel drive track to a stunning lookout, horse riding and the Zebedee Springs, a series of hot springs and waterfalls.
Pentecost River announced the start of the dirt. The rocky crossing was easy going and made a memorable photograph with the Cockburn Ranges in the background.
There is good camping on the eastern side, but on this latest trip, we booked into Home Valley Station, one of several Indigenous enterprises in the area. Watch out for saltwater crocodiles in the Pentecost, though. The well-maintained Home Valley camp on the river provided stunning views as the sun set, and we caught a threadfin salmon for dinner.
The Pentecost River and Cockburn Ranges from Home Valley Station
Home Valley Station
The rough road conditions on the 108km from Home Valley to Ellenbrae were pretty unpleasant, and it’s easy to imagine some travellers turning back when the road is rough. Deep corrugated sections had the UHF aerial dancing around like a demented hula girl, while elsewhere was a constant weave avoiding rocks. It was a relief to turn onto the 5km well-maintained track into Ellenbrea Station’s pastoral lease for its famous scones and hospitality where the cafe also serves hot drinks and light snacks during the day. Swimming choices include a rough 4WD track to Sandy Gorge or a short stroll from camp to a pleasant croc-free creek. We chose the easy option and lazed away the afternoon in peaceful, shady serenity before settling in for the night in the roomy, flat campground.
Corrugations on the Gibb
Saved by the grader
Feedback from travellers from the west suggested that road conditions were much better as the graders had been working to flatten the corrugations. Apart from the rocky Durack River crossing, the rest of the Gibb was a mix of well-formed gravel among savannah woodlands and tarred sections through low ranges with views over spectacular landscapes from rocky hills.
From the intersection with Kalumburu Road, it’s a short deviation to the actual Gibb River, where a low water crossing affords safe water holes with white sandy beaches and access to dozens of well-patronised campsites right on the water. In peak times, you will be lucky to get a spot. A nearby track leads to a significant rock site where you can experience ghostly Wandjina paintings.
Rock paintings near the Gibb River
It’s at the Gibb that travellers choose to head north on Kalumburu Road to the Mitchell Plateau and Kalumburu or continue on the more direct journey to Derby. But, as we outline in the next issue, Kalumbaru Road dialled the rough conditions up several notches.
Mount Elizabeth Station is the Gibb’s next stop and marks the journey’s halfway point. MtE is a half-million-acre pastoral lease running some 6000 head of cattle for the Burton Beef Company. It’s a 30km well-maintained drive off the main road to a working property with guest accommodation, including non-powered bush camping and air-conditioned rooms, if you want a break from the van.
Track detours
Wunnamurra Gorge is a day trip with extreme four-wheel driving and challenging bush walks, while Warla Gorge is a 45-minute drive to a quiet beach on the Hann River. Diesel is available, and a dining room and packs of beef are available to stock the fridge.
It’s said that Galvans Gorge is the most accessible along the track, and when we visited, an (even) older group from a tour company was enjoying the serenity. You scramble over rocks along the end of the flat 850m walk with the reward of easy access to the clear pool at the end.
Galvans Gorge is very accessible
You won’t miss Mount Barnett Roadhouse — it’s right beside the road and a mecca for every traveller. You might be excited to arrive but take it easy, as they don’t appreciate you landing in a cloud of dust. Its hamburgers are as good as I have found anywhere, so settle in on the wide veranda and enjoy the friendly atmosphere and the comings and goings of various vans, camper trailers and adventure trucks. As part of the indigenous-owned Mount Barnett Station, the roadhouse has a well-stocked store and a natural place to refuel. Its campground on the banks of Manning Creek is 5km away and is the gateway to Manning Gorge, one of the most popular on the Gibb.
Manning Gorge is one of the most popular on the Gibb
You swim across the river from the campsite, and there are plastic drums to float your pack. From there is a 3km walk over hills and a relatively easy descent into the gorge. You need decent shoes, reasonable fitness and a quest for adventure, but even on a warm day, arriving at a beautiful swimming hole is worth the effort, with the bonus of a second swim back into camp to cool down. Camping fees and a day pass to the gorge apply.
Imintji Community has an art centre, store and a new campground near the foothills of the Wunaamin Miliwundi Ranges. The store is a museum that shows the local history and the fascinating lives of local characters. The campsite has modern facilities and shade barriers to protect against the afternoon sun. The ranges make a memorable photo opportunity as the colours change in the late afternoon.
The roadhouse at Imintji
John and Heather at Bell Gorge
If we had taken the advice of several travellers who told us the road was atrocious, we probably wouldn’t have attempted our visit to Dalmanyi (Bell Gorge). It turned out that conditions were rough, but nothing for a sensibly driven offroad rig. The waterfall was our favourite of the journey, even if the final scramble into the gorge was challenging. The track is a 2km return mix of class four and five sections. On arriving at the top of the waterfall, there’s a short descent into the pool described as steep and needing three points of contact. We lazed on the warm rocks for hours before heading back to the almost vacant Parks WA Dulundi (Silent Grove) Campground, a restful retreat amongst the bloodwoods and fan palms run by a volunteer camp host.
Our final detour took us to Dimalurru (Tunnel Creek), Bandilngan (Windjana Gorge) and the ruins of the Lillimooloora Police Station in Bandilngan (Windjana Gorge) National Park. We left the van at the 24hr Lennard River Rest Area near the turnoff into Leopold Downs Road. Entry to Bandilngan (Windjana Gorge) is through a small cave, followed by well-defined sandy tracks along the banks. Watch out for the many freshwater crocodiles, rich birdlife and coral fossils in the red rocks.
Bandilngan (Windjana Gorge)
The Lillimooloora Police Station is the significant site of the beginning of the Bunuba Resistance. It’s where Jandamarra shot policeman Constable Richardson and freed 17 of his kinsmen, starting a three-year frontier war immortalised in books and film. Dimalurru (Tunnel Creek) is a unique experience. After contorting myself over rocks at the entrance, I walked through absolute darkness, including 50m of waist-deep water, surrounded by friendly freshwater crocodiles. It’s not for claustrophobics, but for everyone else, it’s a must. Don’t forget your head torch and extra batteries or a backup light.
Freshwater crocs are plentiful in Dimalurru (Tunnel Creek)
Completing the Gibb
From Lennard Creek Rest Area, it’s 126km of tarred road to Derby, with one more surprise at the Mowanjum Aboriginal Art and Cultural Centre, home to authentic Kimberly Indigenous art emphasising Wandjina designs. The theatre has an excellent presentation on local history and an enormous range of artworks and clothing for sale. The Mowanjum Festival runs in July every year and is celebrating its 26th year this year (Saturday 5 July 2025), making it one of Australia’s longest-running Indigenous festivals.
When we arrived in Derby, it was the weekend and pretty quiet, so we celebrated our successful run along the Gibb with some fish and chips on the wharf before heading to Broome for a few days’ rest in the sunset capital of the world.
What broke along the Gibb?
Our 2012 Trakmaster 19ft 6in Tanami is a hardy build and has traversed much of Australia with us and previous owners, so it’s tough. But conditions on the Gibb wrought some havoc. We blew a shock absorber, and, stupidly, I didn’t have a spare and couldn’t replace it until we got to Port Hedland. The door of our Swift oven also came adrift, and the cabin door refused to lock, both of which may have been helped by the rough ride because of the blown shock. These are the risks you take because, despite driving to the conditions, the first section of the track was demanding, and some damage could be the price when heading into the wild.
John blew a shock absorber on the Trakmaster
Prepare for the worst
Tackling the Gibb isn’t for everyone, and the tow truck drivers at each end do a good trade, rescuing stranded travellers during the dry season. There’s a good reason a significant tyre repair service operates on the track — punctures are common, so check your tyre pressures are correct for the conditions, and don’t drive like it’s a racetrack. Your tow vehicle and van must be serviced for the journey, and you need some essential spares, like an extra shock absorber for the van, two jacks, a tyre pump and a repair kit. Many opt for two spare tyres for the van and car. A UHF radio and first aid kit are essential, and because there’s limited phone coverage, a personal emergency position-indicating radio beacon (EPIRB) or a satellite phone is a good idea.
The best time to travel is in the dry months between April and September, and the road is closed for much of the time outside the peak season so plan accordingly. You will find road conditions and opening times on the helpful Mount Barnett Roadhouse website (mtbarnettroadhouse.com.au). They also have some of the best advice for travelling when they suggest that your life and those of other travellers are more important than a holiday schedule. Take it easy and give yourself some time to enjoy the ancient landscape and Kimberley’s remoteness. It’s a truly unique Aussie outback adventure, and we felt privileged to visit what is one of Australia’s true adventures.
Bandilngan (Windjana Gorge) at the western end of the Gibb River Road
Planning your Gibb River Road trip
Station stays and camping
P: 08 9191 1275
Dulundi (Silent Grove) Campground
P: 08 9161 4325
P: 08 9161 4318
P: 0477 478 425
Imintji Campground and Art Centre
P: 08 9191 7227
P: 08 9191 7007
P: 08 9191 4644
Useful contacts
Mowanjum Aboriginal Art and Cultural Centre
P: 08 9191 1008
Over the Range Tyre and Mechanical Repairs
P: 08 91917887
Parks Stay WA National Park camping permits
Road conditions: Main Roads Western Australia
The Gibb River Road — Kimberly, Western Australia
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Tips for planning your dry season caravanning adventure
A guide to planning your caravan road trip to WA
The Gibb River Road, WA: Is it caravan friendly?