The Cidery and Blackwood Valley Brewing Company, Bridgetown (Image Tourism WA)
Julia ventures to the heart of Western Australia's southwest to discover there’s more to Bridgetown than cider, candy and an ice-cold reputation.
Bridgetown wouldn’t be out of place if it were in England. The Western Australian inner southwest town is nestled in the Blackwood Valley, 259km south of Perth, and is famed for its misty mornings, rolling green hills and stunning seasonal changes. Like England, it also has the ‘brrrh’ factor as one of the state’s coldest locales, earning its tongue-in-cheek ‘Fridgetown’ moniker. But once the clouds dissipate and you get past its chilly side, a vibrant town reveals itself.
Bridgetown is the only heritage-listed town in the southwest, with eight throughout Western Australia. Century-old buildings and heritage sites — some showy — line the town’s main street, Hampton Street. Its eccentricities are not just face-value, with Bridgetown’s highly engaged community hosting some of the state’s most unique regional events.
From candy to cider, I discovered how it lures out-of-towners beyond its delightful village setting.
The famous bridge over the Blackwood River leads to the historic town
How Bridgetown came to be
The Pibulmun and Wadandi people are the Traditional Owners of the Blackwood Valley. They had coined the region surrounding Bridgetown ‘Geegelup’ — a term for the freshwater crustacean gilgies found in the area’s stream.
Europeans arrived in the region in the mid-19th century, establishing what would become the southwest’s oldest town, gazetted in 1868. Bridgetown’s undulating landscapes were deemed advantageous for apple orchards and farming, and the riches of the charming town’s agricultural roots are still evident along Hampton Street today.
Early 20th-century splendour is on show at the beautifully restored post office and corner Federation-style hotels, Bridgetown Hotel and The Freemasons Hotel — affectionately nicknamed ‘The Freo’. Come nighttime, both hotels are a hive of activity (understandably why), with the historic venues offering country pub hospitality. The original Bridgetown Railway Station has been given a new lease of life as the Bridgetown-Greenbushes Visitor Centre.
The Freemasons Hotel (Image Tourism WA)
Other lively, new-age additions along the strip include Karma Llama Lounge, a vinyl bar and live music venue; Slow Grow Project, a scent-filled working studio and artesian store stocking local dried flowers, earthenware, organic skin products and vintage kimono silks; Boho Vintage, a hoarder’s delight, spilling with thrift and upcycle clothing and antiques and The Mulberry Tree, one of the town’s best spots to grab a morning cuppa and mingle with locals.
The Slow Grow Project and The Rabbit Hole
Enjoy a cuppa at The Mulberry Tree (Image Tourism WA)
Bridgetown remains in festive mode all year round, thanks to FATS (Food, Art, Toys, Santa) Bridgetown. The cafe and Christmas shop delights the Christmas-obsessed with themed trinkets and decor.
Apples are still hot property
Besides its charming looks, another good reason why Bridgetown could be mistaken for a village in England is for one of its core attractions, The Cidery and Blackwood Valley Brewing Company. Regarded as one of the region’s best family-run breweries, it was opened in 2000 by three British expats who longed for a crisp taste of home. Who knows if early settlers foresaw Bridgetown locals turning apple orchards into liquid gold?
It wasn’t my first visit to this brewery; however, every time I visit, I feel like I’m being teleported to an English watering hole. Inside, the brewery has an old-fashioned English pub feel with its traditional snug bar, pump taps and a fireplace as a cosy centrepiece. The brewery’s cottage-like beer garden and rose walk behind its verdant vine-covered entrance bolster its English countryside character.
Over the years, The Cidery has expanded its offerings onsite with Blackwood Distillery. With a vast premium cider range — some unusual connotations — and boutique beers and gin all under one roof, it really is an English thirst trap. I stuck to having a pint of original pink lady apple cider, taking it into the beer garden, under shady gums and among the green and bloom. Out from the main drag, it’s a popular spot with locals with live music on Friday nights. While I missed the entertainment, I was easily satisfied being among local chatter and a laid-back atmosphere.
Upholding English hospitality and fare is the town’s longest-running business, Bridgetown Pottery-Restaurant. Owner Pip Mills has run the much-loved cafe along the main strip for 38 years, offering a range of breakfast items and homely meals. It’s not just Mills’ delicious food that has earned her a reputation as one of Bridgetown’s much-revered locals. Mills has proved her stripes as a highly engaged community member, spearheading local events and festivals, notably the Blues at Bridgetown (more on that later).
The back garden of the Bridgetown Pottery-Restaurant’s tearooms
Another sweet spot is Ooh La Lollipop. The locally owned and operated old-fashioned lolly shop is a treasure trove heavily stocked with specialty sugar-filled treats from around the world. If you are fond of small treats on the road, this is a great place to find them and be in childlike awe.
A hub of creative minds
Beyond time-worn exteriors along the main strip reveals Bridgetown’s creative streak.
Even with a well-hidden entrance, the town’s central art hub, The Rabbit Hole, is hardly one to accidentally bypass with its colourful wall murals giving visitors a directive to its entrance down a narrow stairwell. Free to enter, the open artist workspace champions regional artists and features several open studios. It’s a great experience and also the place to pick up unique craftworks and, if fortunate, see imagination unfold in real-time.
The Rabbit Hole open studios for artists
The flair for creativity spills out onto the streets with the ever-growing Bridgetown Art Trail. The 4km trail meanders through the town and currently features 27 artworks — from totem poles to metal orbs — created by community members. A notable favourite is Damien Butler’s ‘Kaleidoscope’. Located in Somme Creek, the sustainably sourced 3m multi-mirror diamond sculpture reflects the surrounding bushland and brook, ever-changing with sunlight. Come nightfall, ground lights bring the 3D artwork to life, showcasing another interpretation of Bridgetown’s natural lure.
How’s this as another way to showcase Bridgetown’s creative brains? The quaint town is home to the Brierley Jigsaw Gallery. It is one for problem-solvers, with the gallery displaying hundreds of jigsaw puzzles — from classics to modern-day 3D brainteasers — and is believed to have the most extensive collection in the southern hemisphere. Its prized collection, Jesse Bierley, dates back to the 1940s.
Like many, I became a puzzler during the pandemic, with my usual limit of 1000 pieces. It seems piecing together 1000 is nothing compared to the gallery’s showpiece: a 40,320-piece Ravensburger Disney Memorable Moments puzzle — once the largest commercially available puzzle in the world. I wonder how many years, months or days it took to bring it to life.
Explore the beautiful Blackwood River
Far from the town’s folk drinking and thinking — problem-solving puzzles and flexing creativity — is the town’s natural soother, the Blackwood River.
The Blackwood River
A short stroll from the town’s centre, the state’s longest continually running river is a great spot for picnics, canoe, kayak and mountain biking enthusiasts. Keeping dry, I followed the 5.7km Blackwood River Town trail, which loops through the town. Runners passed as I took my time strolling under soaring marri and jarrah trees.
Along the way is BIG4 Bridgetown Caravan Park, idyllically located along the riverbanks. It is a good starting block to venture along the town’s nature and heritage trails and enjoy life in the slow lane as locals do.
Speaking of serenity, Bridgetown forms part of the inland trio Villages in the Valley Road Trip. The trail includes Balingup (26km north-west) and Nannup (46km west). Both sister towns are picturesque and perhaps wouldn’t look too out of place in England either.
The bridge over the river is part of the town trail
Festivals not to miss
Blues at Bridgetown
Every November, Bridgetown’s Hampton Street becomes one big street party with the much-anticipated annual Blues at Bridgetown Festival. Since its inception in 1993, the three-day festival has become one of the country’s most renowned regional music events, attracting local and international blues and roots artists with John Butler, The Waifs and Xavier Rudd as past acts.
Bridgetown Blues Festival is a must-attend annual event in November
Fridgetown Fest
Bridgetown embraces its frigid reputation as Western Australia’s winter capital by commemorating it each year. The winter festival, Fridgetown Fest, is held from June to August with many events and activities scheduled around town and neighbouring Greenbushes.
Festival of Country Gardens
Bridgetown comes into full bloom at the annual springtime four-day event, Festival of Country Gardens. Front and backyard gates are opened throughout the Blackwood Valley and Southern Forrest region to showcase the works of avid gardeners in private gardens and courtyards, providing plenty of green-thumb and quirky sculpture inspiration.
Useful contact information
The Cidery and Blackwood Valley Brewing Company
P: 08 9761 2204
P: 08 9761 1038
P: 08 9761 1900
E: reception@big4bridgetown.com.au
Bridgetown-Greenbushes Visitor Information Centre
P: 08 9761 1740
E: visitors@bridgetown.wa.gov.au
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