Port Campbell is not only a sleepy seaside village with glorious coastal walks, fishing and unique local wildlife, but also the gateway to one of Australia’s most notorious coastlines.
The ferocity and fury of Port Campbell’s big waves frothed and spat out over the jetty as local fishermen pulled in their big catch of barracuda, salmon and some tasty snapper as we arrived in Port Campbell. For the fishing enthusiast, this is the place to be.
I love visiting Port Campbell in winter or summer. Depending on whether you prefer to enjoy this jarringly haunted coastline in the winter months or its charming seaside village appeal during the summer, there is something for everyone in and around the region.
Even though Port Campbell may be the entry to the iconic Great Ocean Road, it also lures a whole other breed of big wave surfers to the area; in particular to Two Mile Bay, where surfers often get towed out in order to avoid smashing up against limestone cliffs upon exiting the harbour mouth.
If big waving surfing isn’t your thing, then taking a walk across the suspension bridge to the Port Campbell Discovery Walk will take you on a 1.5km easy track to view more of this spectacular rugged coastline and watch the surfers from the safety of Sunset Lookout. Or head further south across the Point Sturgess headland for a 4km return walk.
Port Campbell Beach on a fresh spring day
Take the suspension bridge over the estuary towards Port Campbell Discovery Walk
What lies beneath
Thousands of years before European settlement, the area around Port Campbell was inhabited by people of the Eastern Maar Nation. This Country stretches all the way from Budj Bim in the west, where the Gunditjmara are known for their sophisticated aquaculture systems that trapped eels, particularly around Lake Condah; to Great Otway National Park in the east, and Kara Kara National Park in the north.
It wasn’t until the 19th century that Port Campbell became a vital shipping port for wool and timber for growing colonies. The towering cliffs and unpredictable weather conditions made navigation treacherous, and many ships met their fate along the coast, giving rise to the term ‘Shipwreck Coast’. Many of the wrecked ships had sailed from the British Isles, often carrying emigrants from Ireland. They were hoping for a better life in a new country, but tragically never reached their destination.
Port Campbell’s history is deeply entwined with its maritime past and today the remnants of this maritime history can be explored at the local museum, where artifacts and stories of shipwrecks and early settlers bring the past to life.
Port Campbell became a storm refuge for sailors
Usually when I drive down the Great Ocean Road to visit Port Campbell, I’ll avoid the hot spots such as the Twelve Apostles and Loch Ard Gorge because of the busloads of tourists congesting the visual and auditory beauty of these formidable coastal rock formations.
However, after doing some research on the shipwrecks scattered along Victoria’s west coast, I learned that more large ships have been wrecked here than on any comparable stretch of coastline; in fact, literally hundreds are supposedly still lying hidden under sand between Port Fairy and Port Campbell (imagine the treasure!).
This piqued my interest somewhat, and I felt it vital that I stop through Port Campbell National Park to appreciate and understand the enormity of this place and imagine what it would have been like to survive the savagery of this coastline as a Traditional Owner, as well as an early settler.
As explorer Matthew Flinders once said of it: “I have seldom seen a more fearful section of coastline”.
Port Campbell’s historic walk (Port Campbell Discovery Walk)
The lore of Loch Ard
One of the defining features of Port Campbell’s history is its association with the infamous shipwreck of Loch Ard, which ran aground off the rocks of Muttonbird Island, near Port Campbell, in 1878. The tragedy resulted in the loss of 54 lives, with only two survivors — a story that has become an integral part of the local lore.
As the story goes, when the ship sank, a woman by the name of Eva Carmichael attached herself to a floating chicken coop along with two other men, who unfortunately were engulfed in the waves while she was swept up into the gorge. It was here that a young merchant sailor by the name of Tom Pearce, who had already managed to swim to safety, had heard her cries and swam back out to rescue her and bring her to the shelter of a cave while he sought help from nearby sheep musterers and Mr Gibson (after which ‘Gibson Steps’ are named) from Glenample Station.
Gibson Steps are named after the man who assisted in the Loch Ard rescue
Not only did Eva lose her parents and six siblings while suffering a terrifying ordeal as one of two sole survivors of the wreckage, but once the media caught wind of the event, it was quickly whipped up into an international love story that conspired to see this supposed ‘damsel in distress’ and her rescuer, marry each other.
They didn’t. In fact, Eva spent three months recuperating at Glenample Station, then left Melbourne on a ship not long after the ordeal to go back to Ireland and get married to someone else.
I often wonder what indelible mark these tragedies may brand on future generations of children as I took a walk along the weathered cliffs overlooking Loch Ard Gorge towards the cemetery, where four of the five people that were recovered from the wreck (two being Eva’s mother and sister), were buried.
Treacherous waters through Loch Ard Gorge
Cemeteries are sprinkled all along these cliff faces because of their proximity to where the bodies have been found. I started chatting to a man who was methodically applying a coat of protective enamel to his ancestor’s grave. He told me he does it every year in order to prevent erosion from salt and spray. I could sense the immense pride in his history. I think that is what we as humans want to leave behind for future generations, no matter how traumatic these life events are.
Clifftop cemeteries are scattered along the coastline
The wrecks led to increased attention towards maritime safety, prompting the construction of lighthouses along the coast, such as the Cape Otway Lighthouse, established in 1848.
Take the tourist route
If shipwreck history is not necessarily your thing, but the views are, travel a further 4km down the road from Loch Ard Gorge towards the recently opened Saddle Lookout, built atop the cliffs at the Twelve Apostles.
View of the Twelve Apostles from Saddle Lookout
Developed in collaboration with the Eastern Maar Aboriginal Corporation, this geotechnical marvel was completed in 2024 and stretches out resting on the terrain’s ‘saddle’ overlooking these sacred rock formations while the other side looks out over the horizon. It does get busy with tourists, but the view is nothing short of spectacular.
A wonderful way to finish the trip is to drive 15 minutes further down the Great Ocean Road and visit the Great Ocean Road Wildlife Park. This 16-hectare sanctuary allows visitors to get up close and personal with the native wildlife; particularly the dingo and learn more about their co-existence and importance in our delicate ecosystem. The Great Ocean Road Wildlife Park houses wombats, kangaroos, emus, wallabies and alpacas for petting and feeding, as well as dingo enclosures. It also makes great coffee and organic produce in their adjoining cafe.
Tips for visiting Port Campbell
- Best time to visit: The best time to visit Port Campbell is during the warmer months, from late spring to early autumn (November to April). The weather is milder, and the chances of rain are lower, making it ideal for outdoor activities.
- Sunrise and sunset: Make sure to catch the sunrise or sunset at the Twelve Apostles. The golden light casts a magical glow on the limestone stacks, providing perfect photo opportunities.
- Respect the environment: When exploring the coastal areas, be mindful of the environment. Stick to designated paths and follow guidelines to help preserve the natural beauty of the region.
- Plan your itinerary: Given the numerous attractions in and around Port Campbell, planning your itinerary in advance will help you make the most of your visit; particularly when it comes to booking accommodation in and around the region, as they fill up quickly during the summer months. Consider allocating at least two days to fully explore the area.
Fast facts for visiting Port Campbell
Where to stay
NRMA Port Campbell Holiday Park
Park the RV up or perch yourself on the balcony of one of the cabins with views of the estuary. I’ve seen everything from kangaroos to koalas in this cosy nook just a stone’s throw from the town centre.
If you feel like a room for the night, then this motor inn has the best views in town overlooking Port Campbell Bay. It’s also conveniently close to cafes and amenities. Best to book in advance though, as it books out quickly in summer, and in winter!
Where to eat
This is by far one of my favourite regional pubs in Victoria. The food is good, the beer is cold, and it’s got that quirky surf/fishing village vibe to it. There’s always a meat tray or live music going around, too.
Locally sourced produce from along the gourmet trail make this place a great spot for breakfast and coffee.
Railway Shed Timboon Distillery
Drive 15 minutes out of Port Campbell, to the town of Timboon and experience a whisky tasting at the distillery and a share plate menu.
Timboon Railway Shed Distillery
Camperdown to Timboon Rail Trail ends here
THE NEXT STEP
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