To Wilsons Prom and beyond: South Gippsland, Victoria
Giant boulders, pristine riverways and a mountainous backdrop at Wilsons Prom
Miriam Blaker takes a trip down memory lane in Victoria's beautiful South Gippsland.
At the southern-most tip of Australia, childhood memories come flooding back: walking up Mount Oberon at the crack of dawn, exploring the enchanted Lilly Pilly Gully and squelching through hot sand at Squeaky Beach.
Fast forward a few decades and, as caravan travellers, South Gippsland lures us back once again. It’s one of the closest areas to Melbourne, offering a tantalising mix of scenery, gourmet delights and picture-perfect accommodation options. And there’s much more here than just Wilsons Prom.
Our adventures begin once we veer off the busy M1 at Koo Wee Rup and enter the South Gippsland Highway on some of the most scenic dairy countryside in Victoria. Not far from Korumburra we detour off the highway at Loch. It’s lunch time and this quaint village has loads of history and a tempting array of places to enjoy.
Our favourite is Olive at Loch, in the middle of town, where you can browse inside then enjoy fabulous alfresco dining. ‘Olive’ is the name of the owners old Combi van, which bought them to this cafe they ended up buying. Across the road is the Loch Village Foodstore, and within walking distance is the Loch Wine Bar and the Loch Brewery and Distillery, housed inside the old red brick bank building.
Olive at Loch cafe and gift shop
The whole town is so enticing you may want to spend the night. At the nearby Loch Memorial Reserve, across from the suspension bridge, the Memorial Reserve has plenty of shade, a large, covered seating area, picnic areas, barbecues and toilet block with flushing toilets.
Continuing on you’ll pass Meeniyan, with its Main Street featuring a central garden of flowers and vegetables shaded by flowering gums. Free camping is available at the grassy Recreation Reserve which is only a short walk (two minutes) into town where you can visit places like the delicious Moos at Meeniyan.
There's something fishy going on
Fish Creek is a browser’s delight. Touted as the ‘arts and culture Hub for South Gippsland’ there are six galleries including renowned children’s author Allison Lester’s gallery, the Stefani Hilltop Gallery and Ride the Wild Goat, with furniture and artwork made from salvaged goods.
Fish Creek is renowned for its art galleries
The magnificently imposing Fish Creek Hotel with its 1930s art decor was missing its iconic giant mullet on the roof when we visited. The mullet is down for maintenance after some of its giant scales fell on a car but look out for it. Those who love all things quirky will have to wait until May 2024 for the next Fish Creek Tea Cosy Festival.
Our campsite at Shallow Inlet
Just before reaching Yanakie is Shallow Inlet, and it’s here we stay the night as Yanakie is booked out. Shallow Inlet Caravan Park offers powered and unpowered sites and further up the road the Shallow Inlet bush campground has plenty of unpowered sites close to the water. The sunsets here are almost as spectacular as Yanakie.
A golden sunset from the camp at Yanakie
A base at Yanakie
The Yanakie Caravan Park is one of our favourite caravan parks in Victoria. With panoramic views out to the Prom and across Corner inlet, snag a premium waterfront site here and you may not want to leave. In summer months these waters are perfect for swimming and in the cooler months light a campfire and watch the sun go down over the water.
Premium waterfront views at Yanakie Caravan Park
Yanakie is the last town before reaching Wilsons Promontory National Park and also the last fuel stop before entering the national park.
It’s only a five minutes’ drive to the park entrance and from there Tidal River is 25 minutes away. Watch out for wombats and other local wildlife on the way in.
A date at the prom
The first sight of the Prom never fails to take my breath away. The sweeping road with its views of spectacular coastline and granite peaks leads to many short and long walks within the national park. For those keen to tackle the summit of Mount Oberon, the views at the top are well worth it. But not for us this time. We’re content with the easy Loo-Errn boardwalk which follows the river to the footbridge, where a bunch of young backpackers are cooling off. There are many wonderful pristine beaches: favourites Norman Bay (Norman Beach), Squeaky Beach and Whisky Bay are as beautiful in winter as in summer.
Loving life at Whisky Bay
Tidal River Campground has 20 powered sites and nearly 500 unpowered camping and caravan sites with online bookings required before arrival. For me quiet Yanakie is a great alternative.
Yanakie is a great base from which to explore not only the Prom but other attractions in the area. Leave the caravan behind and drive up to visit the expansive wetland areas of the Toora Bird Hide. Or take a side trip to Agnes Falls, the highest waterfall in Victoria, 15 minutes from Toora. On the way back check out the Toora Wind farm, high up in the hills of the rolling Strzelecki Ranges.
From port to port
Our road trip continues along the South Gippsland Highway which hides turnoffs to tiny towns and hidden places. Three ports are located within an easy short drive (one hour). Stretch your legs on the peaceful Port Franklin boardwalk that meanders through wetlands and at Port Welshpool you can’t miss the one-kilometre-long refurbished jetty. The Long Jetty has a fascinating, chequered history which you can read about at the onsite open-air museum.
Drop into the General Store and enjoy some fish and chips. It’s usually a thriving place however when we visited Victoria was in the midst of a potato shortage. There’s no fish without the chips!
Charming Port Albert is 33km away and our next overnighter. There’s free RV camping by the foreshore and designated spots for at least six vans. Next door are toilets, a dump point and the best bit is you’re right beside the wharf, so there’s no need to unhitch to explore town.
Port Albert holds the title of Gippsland’s oldest port. It was established in 1841 for the early land settlement of Gippsland however today relies strongly on tourism. The picturesque wharf is undoubtedly its gem.
Free RV camping at Port Albert
It’s Monday, early December 2022 and nothing is open. However, since our visit there’s been major developments with three eateries opening up in town. Previously Castim by the Jetty is now the Port Albert Fresh Seafoods and down the end of the wharf, the Port Albert Fish and Chip Co. has taken over the lease of the restaurant where there’s no charge to eat takeaway overlooking sublime water views. There’s Italian food at the Old General Store and a new eatery at the Old Customs House Inn cafe.
The jetty at Port Albert
Inside the Port Albert Maritime Museum is a permanent exhibit about the late Port Albert’s Christopher Robinson, a Greenpeace activist. At night enjoy a walk along the illuminated wharf and colourful jetties and enjoy the peaceful and spectacular views of the ever-changing tides and skies from the window of your caravan.
From Yaaram Art to Tarra-Bulga
We leave Port Albert for Yarram, a small township put on the map in 2020 when renowned artist Heesco Khosnaran was commissioned to paint the town. Sixteen larger-than-life murals have collectively become the Heesco Town Project, depicting colourful scenes and traditions as well as local characters that have shaped this area. One of them is Kara Healey, the first female park ranger of Tarra Valley, found on the rear wall of the Betta Home Living Store. It’s well worth a stop in Yarram to explore the amazing street art. A guide to the artwork can be picked up at the Court House which is also the Visitor Information Centre or simply chat to any local. Most are only too happy to help. Heesco will return to Yarram in 2023 to paint the water tower.
Less than half an hour away is Tarra-Bulga National Park, another great place from my childhood. As we wander among lush fern-filled gullies and curved paths. the magic is just as alive today. The awe is timeless amid towering ancient mountain ash trees, waterfalls, and the giant tree ferns. The walks are suitable for young and old legs alike and we walk to Cyathea Falls and bounce like teenagers on the Corrigan Suspension Bridge.
Corrigan Suspension Bridge in Tarra-Bulga National Park
Our home for the next couple of nights is Fernholme Caravan Park, in the heart of Tarra Valley. We’re the only ones there, on a powered site right by the river and the only noise is birdlife and the babble of the rapids. With no phone coverage it’s like a digital detox, the only connection is with nature. And the other half!
The walks are easy at Tarra Valley
From Tarra Valley and Yarram, the easy route is to continue to Sale and head back to Melbourne along the Princes Highway. However, we opt instead to head upwards to the Grand Ridge Road, contemplating driving to Mirboo North ‘the back way’.
The Tarra Valley Road is windy and steep and becomes narrower and windier the further we head. Suddenly, with no warning, the D-MAX loses all power, and we stop. To say it was unnerving is an understatement. Somehow hubby got it moving again in 4WD and we make it to the intersection where we stop to let the car recover. It’s there I notice the half-hidden sign indicating that caravans over eight metres long are not recommended. Doug smartly remarks our van is only 7.8 metres!
Even smarter, in my opinion, was yours truly making a phone call to the Latrobe Valley Visitor Centre for some current information. Turns out towing a caravan on the Grand Ridge Road is not advised, especially after rain with many potholes and log trucks sharing the road. So, we turn instead towards Morwell and make our way to Mirboo North on sealed roads.
Homeward bound the coastal way
Mirboo North is a picturesque town filled with murals. We stroll the streets and find out the renowned brewery is closed and the closest place to stay is Boolarra. We opt to head back towards the coast, we ring ahead and organise to stay behind the fabulous Riverview Hotel at Tarwin Lower. The pub has room for two fully self-contained vans out the back, making it an easy decision of where to eat that night. There at the pub I finally got my fish and chips!
Mural art at Mirboo North
The next day we travel towards Cape Liptrap National Park, 15 minutes from Tarwin Lower. We unhitch the van and drive down the narrow road towards the lime kilns in Walkerville South. It’s a fascinating area to explore and, along with a short coastal walk to the Cape Liptrap Lighthouse, is a great way to finish our sightseeing. Our weeklong circuit route of South Gippsland showcased a stunning diversity of landscapes and new places, even for an ex-Gippsland girl. There’s so much more to see and fall in love with in Gippsland, the southern part is merely the tip of the iceberg.
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