Mount Buffalo National Park (Image Visit Victoria)
In the first of a two-part series, Chris Whitelaw explores the rugged but stunning Victorian High Country.
‘High Country’ refers colloquially to the mountainous region covering most of eastern Victoria. These so-called Victorian Alps are part of the vast Australian Alps which straddle the New South Wales border and extend as north as the Australian Capital Territory. Encompassing more than 1.23 million hectares of the Great Dividing Range, the Australian Alps contain the highest peaks on the mainland, including Mount Kosciuszko (2228m) in NSW and Bogong (1986m), Feathertop (1922m), Hotham (1862m) and Buffalo (1723m) in Victoria.
Porepunkah, view from The Kilnhouses (Image Visit Victoria)
Alpine National Park
At 661,775ha, the Alpine National Park is Victoria’s largest park and covers most of the state’s alpine area in the Great Dividing Range. Its north-eastern boundary is along the NSW border, where it abuts the Kosciuszko National Park. The dramatic mountain topography embraces a broad range of vegetation communities: tall stands of alpine ash, stunted snow gum woodlands, open high plain grasslands, wildflower heathlands, herb fields, mossbeds and frost hollows. Within these varied habitats are more than 1100 species of native plants, about half the state’s terrestrial birds and 40 per cent of its mammals. The mountains provide a stunning setting for outdoor recreation and adventure all year round, supported by a network of access roads and tracks, with comprehensive facilities and services in local historic towns and alpine villages and resorts.
Victoria's Great Alpine Road
The Great Alpine Road (B500) through the High Country is one of the state’s finest scenic drives. Stretching 310km from Wangaratta in the north to Bairnsdale in the southeast, the GAR is Australia’s highest fully sealed road, reaching an altitude of 1845m as it traverses the Victorian Alps at Mount Hotham.
Travellers on the GAR are treated to a smorgasbord of spectacular scenery as it crosses lush farmlands and vineyards in the Ovens River valley to beautiful Bright, then climbs through forested foothills to alpine heathlands bedecked in summer wildflowers or blanketed by deep winter snow. After skirting the magnificent Mount Buffalo plateau and cresting the mountains of the Alpine National Park with its range-upon-range panoramas, the route descends through snow gum forests and sub-alpine grasslands towards historic Omeo. South of Omeo, the GAR shadows the Tambo River as it meanders through wooded hills before emerging on the Gippsland plains around Lake King near Bairnsdale.
Tambo River on the Great Alpine Road (Image Visit Victoria)
Although technically an all-weather road suitable for caravans and camper trailers in all seasons, the highest sections can be temporarily closed by snow during extreme winter conditions. Vehicles travelling between Harrietville and Omeo are required to carry snow chains during the declared snow season.
Wangaratta
The Rural City of Wangaratta (population 30,002) is a bustling regional centre, 250km northeast of Melbourne along the Hume Highway. It stands at the confluence of the Ovens and King Rivers, which drain the northwestern slopes of the Victorian Alps and dot the city landscape with lagoons and nurture lush riverine parklands. The local economy is driven by textile plants, light engineering works and a substantial retail sector, with police, hospital, medical and education services. Travellers will find fuel outlets, mechanical services and a wide range of accommodation that includes caravan parks, hotels and motor inns.
Wangaratta contains many historic buildings, most of them concentrated on the city’s main street, notably: Saint Patrick’s Catholic Church (1869); Holy Trinity Cathedral (1908); Bishop’s Lodge (1904); the former London Chartered Bank (1875); the Post and Telegraph Office (1873). The city’s famous Festival of Jazz and Blues, held on the weekend before the Melbourne Cup, attracts thousands of music lovers every year who come to hear internationally renowned artists. (Head here for more information)
The church tower in Wangaratta
Wangaratta to Myrtleford (48km)
From Wangaratta, the GAR tracks eastward on the northern bank of the picturesque Ovens River to the delightful township of Myrtleford. The alternate route follows the Oxley Road (C522) through vineyards and rolling farmland south of the river via the village of Milawa. Along the way, travellers can sample fine wines, gourmet food and fresh local produce at cellar doors, award-winning hotels and fine dining restaurants, or stock up on seasonal bounty at farm gates.
From origins in the Ovens valley gold rush of the early 1850s, Myrtleford has evolved into a thriving country town with a population of around 3200, and a full range of facilities and amenities serving local agriculture and travellers on their way to the alpine ski-fields. The timber industry is also a major contributor to Myrtleford’s economy, with a plywood mill using pine from valley plantations.
Tourist attractions include the replica Historic Log Tobacco Kiln in Rotary Park, the giant red gum in Smith Street, the Ovens River Loop Trail (5.6km) and the Discovery Trail (1.8km). Several walking tracks around Reform Hill visit remnants of the gold battery and mine site, with breathtaking views over the town to Mount Buffalo.
The Myrtleford Festival (March) is one of the longest running community festivals in Victoria, while the La Fiera Italian Festival (May) is a lively three-day celebration of the town’s Italian migrant heritage. The annual events calendar is rounded out by the Myrtleford Show (October), a classic country agricultural fair, and the Myrtleford Golden Spurs Rodeo (December). Michelini Wines and Gapsted Estate are two of the districts noted winemakers (a visit to each cellar door is a must).
Gapsted Wines near Myrtleford
Nearby Lake Buffalo is a popular destination for waterskiing, boating, fishing and kayaking, as well as picnicking at the main recreation area on the north-eastern shore. The Nug Nug Reserve offers basic camping with toilets, cold showers and river access for fishing. The Buffalo State Forest is great for four-wheel driving, dirt biking and bush camping (some suitable for small vans).
Myrtleford to Porepunkah (25km)
The GAR continues along the northern bank of the Ovens River to the small town of Porepunkah, at the foot of the Mount Buffalo plateau. In 1908, the State Government constructed a road from Porepunkah to the top of the plateau, and The Chalet at the Gorge two years later, beginning the modern era of tourism in the national park. Porepunkah now has a population of just over 1000, with a general store, cafe, roadhouse (with post office), accommodation (hotel/motel, caravan parks, holiday flats) and ski hire for the increasing number of tourists venturing up the mountain. Several wineries in the district are part of the cool-climate Alpine Valleys wine region. The nearby Buckland and Ovens rivers are popular for swimming, canoeing, kayaking, rafting and trout fishing, and the Buckland Valley State Forest is a playground for bushwalkers and four-wheel drivers.
Stunning autumn colours along the Murray to Mountains Rail Trail at Porepunkah (Images Visit Victoria)
Mount Buffalo National Park
The Mount Buffalo National Park is accessed from Porepunkah by the steep and winding Mount Buffalo Road (C535). During winter, parts of this road are often snow-covered and snow chains must be fitted as directed by road signs during the declared snow season. It’s considered unsuitable for caravans.
The park (31,000ha) comprises an undulating plateau of broad open valleys studded with large granite tors, deep gorges and the dissected foothills of Mount Buffalo. The mountain is an impressive granite massif rising sharply from the surrounding plateau, edged by sheer escarpments and topped with massive granite boulders, rock outcrops and bluffs. Its highest point is The Horn (1723m), where a lookout provides spectacular views.
Established in 1898, the park is one of Victoria’s oldest conservation areas, and one of its most popular, attracting more than 181,000 visitors each year. It’s a convenient day trip from the valley towns and the Lakeside Day Visitor Area at Lake Catani has tables, toilets, shelter and free gas barbecues, and water access for swimming, canoeing and fishing.
Lake Catani on the top of Mount Buffalo (Image Visit Victoria)
Camping suitable for tents, small caravans and campervans is also available at Lake Catani Campground from November to April, with amenities that include a stone hut picnic shelter, fireplaces, hot showers, flushing toilets and sink areas for dishwashing and laundry. Bookings are essential and fees apply. (For more information phone the Mount Buffalo Office on 03 57551466 or the booking service on 13 19 63 or online here.)
In 2007, the heritage-listed Mount Buffalo Chalet closed. Since then, the Victorian Government has undertaken major maintenance and restoration works to restore the building to its former grandeur. Those works are ongoing, but the building and gardens may be viewed from the outside. Guided tours are conducted occasionally, and interpretative signage is in place to inform visitors of the Chalet’s history.
The Mount Buffalo Chalet
More than 100km of walking tracks traverse pristine subalpine landscapes to all the major attractions. They range from short, easy walks of 1–4km to medium–long walks of between 6–23km that explore more remote areas of the park. There is the possibility of bad weather at any time of the year though, so walkers should be well prepared and check forecasts before heading out. The park is a popular destination for cyclists and mountain bikers, and the mountain’s sheer granite cliffs provide excellent rock-climbing and abseiling sites for all levels of experience. A cliff-top launch ramp is located at the Gorge for hang-gliders.
During the winter months, snow blankets most of the plateau and attracts thousands of visitors for downhill and cross-country skiing, tobogganing and snow play at Cresta Valley and Dingo Dell. Housed in an impressive two-storey stone building (Keown Lodge), the Dingo Dell Day Visitor Centre operates a cafe, heated area, day shelter, toilets, change room and first aid room, during winter only.
Porepunkah to Bright (6.7km)
The beautiful town of Bright occupies an idyllic setting on the banks of the Ovens River, nestled among the forested ranges of the Victorian Alps. The area was first settled by graziers in the 1830s and flourished during the gold rush of the 1850s. As mining dwindled, local industry diversified into pine plantations and sawmilling.
Today, Bright (population 2620) is the administrative centre for the Alpine Shire and major service hub for travellers through the upper Ovens Valley. It has a large shopping centre, hospital and medical facilities, a post office, restaurants, fuel and mechanical services. Visitors can choose from a wide range of accommodation that includes backpacker lodgings, motels and hotels, self-contained apartments, cabins and holiday houses. There are several caravan parks in the town and at nearby Wandiligong and Freeburgh.
Bright in its autumn glory from Huggins Lookout (Image Visit Victoria)
Bright is famous for its prolific deciduous trees that transform the streets and parks in autumn with blazing colours of orange, red, gold and yellow. This floral spectacle is celebrated each year by the Bright Autumn Festival. (For details and dates visit brightautumnfestival.org.au.) Other events include regular markets, especially at Easter, the Brighter Days Festival and High Country Harvest. Sporting competitions come to town with the Alpine Classic (formerly Audax Alpine Classic) bicycle event, the Great Alpine Golf Classic tournament, the Alfred 6 Hour Charity Mountain Bike Race, the 4 Peaks Bright Alpine Climb and the Buffalo Stampede ultramarathon.
The main street of Bright (Image Visit Victoria)
Some local attractions include the former court house (1862) and lock-up (c1870), both heritage-listed, the Bright Memorial Clocktower (1929) in the town’s centre, the handsome All Saints’ Anglican Church (1870), the Bright and District Historical Society Museum housed in the former railway station (1866), and the Clear Spot Lookout with panoramic views over the town and surrounding foothills. The disused railway line now forms part of the Murray to Mountains Rail Trail for cyclists and walkers which extends from Wangaratta all the way to Harrietville (Head here fore more information.)
Rafting on the Ovens River near Bright (Image Visit Victoria)
Bright to Harrietville (24km)
Leaving leafy Bright, the GAR climbs towards the picturesque mountain village of Harrietville, reputedly named after the first white woman to settle in the district. Along the way, the road passes through the remnants of the once-thriving gold mining towns of Germantown, Freeburgh and Smoko. Spread along the banks of the Ovens River, Harrietville began as a mining settlement during the gold rush and grew as a waypoint servicing travellers heading to the goldfields in Omeo, Dargo and Glen Wills. In 1899, gold dredging began in the Ovens Valley and Harrietville gained the distinction of having the largest dredge (the ‘Tronoh Monster’) and the longest period of dredging. To learn more about the town’s goldmining past visit Pioneer Park and the Harrietville Museum (P: 03 5759 2530).
The township has a population of around 360, with a general store, post office, public hall, recreation reserve, fuel and automotive services. Travellers will find accommodation at hotels, a motel, caravan park, cottages and B&Bs. Events include a bush market in January and on Easter Sunday; a classical music competition and lawn mower grand prix (January); the Harry T Ville and the Boys Blues Band concert (June). There are also a number of excellent walks in and around Harrietville, including trails that climb through tall mountain forests to the summit of Mount Feathertop and connect with alpine ridges to Mount Hotham. Many of the walking trails are also suitable for mountain biking.
Chris Whitelaw continues his Alpine Adventure in part two.
Contact information
Wangaratta
Wangaratta Visitor Information Kiosk
33–37 Ford Street, Wangaratta
P: 1800 801 065
2 Pinkerton Crescent, Wangaratta
P: 03 5721 3380
Regal Court, Wangaratta
P: 03 5721 3368
Myrtleford
Myrtleford Visitor Information Centre
Corner Great Alpine Road–Clyde Street, Myrtleford
P: 03 5755 0514
Willow Grove, Myrtleford
P: 03 5752 1394
8 Lewis Avenue, Myrtleford
P: 03 5752 1598
Porepunkah
Mount Buffalo Road
P: 03 5755 1466
6674 Great Alpine Road, Porepunkah
P: 03 5756 2216
Discovery Parks — Mount Buffalo
36 Mt Buffalo Road, Porepunkah
P: 03 5756 2380
13 Harrison Lane, Porepunkah
P: 03 5756 2235
Porepunkah Pines Holiday Resort
7065 Great Alpine Road, Porepunkah
P: 03 5756 2282
18 Junction Road, Porepunkah
P: 03 5756 2290
Bright
Alpine Visitor Information Centre
119 Gavan Street, Bright
P: 03 5755 0584 / 1800 111 885
BIG4 Tasman Holiday Parks — Bright
1 Mountbatten Avenue, Bright
P: 03 5755 1064 / 1800 033 188
4–10 Toorak Road, Bright
P: 03 5755 1118
15 Thompson Street, Bright
P: 1800 706 685
Harrietville
20 Camping Park Road, Harrietville
P: 03 5759 2523
THE NEXT STEP
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