Nothing beats a good old-fashioned family road trip. Meg Law hit the road to southwest Queensland with her family to explore the remote towns of outback Australia.
“What the heck is that, Dad?” yelled my youngest boy as the 4WD came to a screeching halt. As the red dust cleared on the bumpy track, we tried to make sense of the giant yellow blob sitting in the middle of the track.
“Umm … that would be a giant wild camel having a rest, son!” said Dad. And with that came raucous laughter. Life in the outback is full of surprises, you never know what you will see at every turn.
We were on a family road trip through the remote towns and historical sites of southwest Queensland in our trusty old army green Land Rover Defender, looking like the Leyland Brothers, but with kids in tow — as well as a 20ft caravan.
Shades of ochre, rust and vibrant red dusty tracks, outback sunsets, big skies and remote pubs awaited us … lifelong memories were about to be made.
Outback stations and spas
‘Cause I’m the fella from Cunnamulla,
Yes, I’m the Cunnamulla feller…’
Slim Dusty blared over the old speaker, the hot outback sun beat down on us and there was no air-conditioner in the old rattler as we drove along the corrugated road towards Cunnamulla.
The Warrego Hotel in Cunnamulla
The Cunnamulla Fella
My husband was at the wheel with his tanned face and worn-in Akubra on, whistling a tune, completely in his element navigating the outback tracks. I had my feet on the dashboard and there was a trail of red dust in the rear vision mirror. Our two kids were in the backseat adding up their tally of how many wild emus, cows and roos they had seen on the journey, so far — not to mention the tumbleweeds randomly whirling across the road.
Our great Aussie outback adventure had well and truly begun as we set off to explore the remote outback towns of South West Queensland to chase sunsets, sleep under the stars, swim in the artesian hot springs, slide down the red desert sand dunes of the Simpson Desert, watch a true-blue fair dinkum camel race (more on that later) and search for dinosaur fossils.
Daisy enoys life on the outback station
Artesian bores
First up was a visit to the much talked about and Insta-worthy Charlotte Plains.
Located near Cunnamulla, this popular destination offers private and public Artesian springs and an insight into life on an authentic Australian sheep station. After many days of driving in our rattling old 4WD, a day spent relaxing and soaking in hot natural bore baths to soak off all the dust felt like five-star luxury.
Scattered about are outdoor bathtubs with giant rusty pipes spilling out artesian bore water. You’d be forgiven for thinking it looked a bit rough around the edges but with water reaching temperatures of 42 degrees and full of rich minerals, it is a great place to splash around with the kids and rest those weary muscles.
Matt enjoying the hot springs at Charlotte Plains
Relaxing in the outdoor tubs at Charlotte Plains
After some epic stargazing, we tucked the kids into their bunks and pretended we were all shearers and roustabouts after a long day sorting out fleece. Such a novelty.
Remote outback pubs
Travelling through outback Queensland, it is almost a rite of passage to ensure you visit as many remote pubs as you can along the way to have a beer with Duncan, of course. Many are steeped in history, and have so many stories to tell … if only the walls could talk.
We visited the Toompine Pub near Quilpie — affectionately known as ‘The pub with no town’ — for the most delicious pub fare and a chat with the locals. Other pubs that we visited were Nindigully, Cunnamulla, Eulo, Hungerford and the iconic Betoota Pub near Windorah (where we camped overnight before going to the Birdsville Big Red Bash). One highlight was having a cold ale at Noccundra pub (situated 142km west of Thargomindah along the Adventure Way), built in 1882, where the publican enjoyed telling us that our family of four outnumbered the local population of three.
Camping at the Betoota Hotel is a unique experience
Then there is the famous Birdsville pub which comes alive every year for the world’s most remote music festival, the Big Red Bash. Aussie musicians make the trek to the Simpson Desert in South West Queensland, along with more than 8000 other Aussie revellers, to travel out of town towards Big Red — the highest sand dune in the Simpson Desert. Under a vast, star-speckled canopy they spend three nights entertaining people from all around Australia and beyond.
It is truly a wild outback adventure to remember as the desert springs to life. The base of Big Red is transformed into a temporary town with its own network of roads and pathways. The camping area sits on the dried-out bed of an ancient lake with the giant red rust sand dune as a backdrop. It forms a natural amphitheatre making it the perfect setting for an outback concert.
Live tunes all day long over the three days and no wi-fi, phone reception, showers or mod cons to be seen. Instead, it’s communal compost long drop toilets, a sea of tents, swags and caravans, fly nets, Akubras, Blundstones and good old Aussie camaraderie.
The family arrives in Birdsville
Jasper dancing on top of Big Red
To find out more about the Great Artesian Basin — one of Australia's natural wonders — and other hot springs and baths, check out our guide here.
Camel races
The fun didn’t stop there. Along our outback road trip, we visited the Royal Flying Doctor Service base in Charleville, climbed Baldy Top Lookout in Quilpie, passed fields of white, cotton-like snow, did the silo art trail, opal-ing, went searching for dinosaur fossils in Winton, swam in inland rivers and remote waterholes and witnessed the most majestic sunrises and sunsets along the way. Not to mention we even attended our first-ever camel race.
Forget bucking broncos, bulls, ropes and barrel racing, which is the typical rodeo you find in remote Queensland. In the tiny town of Boulia, Qld, every July you will be greeted by the expected sea of denim, checked shirts and cowboy hats — but this isn’t your typical rodeo.
In Boulia, the crowds gather and the campers pitch tents on the grass, the familiar waft of snags and steak fills the township, the beer is cold and the audience places its bets and gets ready to watch the camels run along a racetrack. This annual grassroots event attracts big crowds from all over Australia who gather for two days to compete for the winning title.
With dust flying in every direction, spectators leapt from their seat, shouting out their support. It’s easy to think you are caught up in an old Wild West movie, with a twist. Having seen a wild camel in the middle of a road earlier on our road trip, it was hilarious to see the camels hurtling along the track in a plume of red dust — no jockeys, just camels doing their thing.
Exploring our sunburnt country
Travelling throughout Australia as a family is a great way to connect with the land. From the sweeping red plains to the rugged natural beauty of the bush, orange-hued sunsets and sunrises set against a vibrant blue sky, you can’t help but be in awe of this vast country and tip your hat to the greatest adventure down under.
Home is where you park your rig
Trip planner:
Where to stay
Charlotte Plains Outback Station:
Outside Cunnamulla, the station has the outdoor spa experience/artesian springs and campground. A day pass is $15 for adults, $10 for children and kids under five years are free. Camping sites are available at different prices depending on if you want unpowered or powered. Alternatively, you can sleep in the Shearer’s Quarters or a Merino Cabin. There are various amenities available at each of the camping areas, such as hot artesian baths, flushing toilets, hot showers, laundry facilities and camp kitchens. Pets are permitted at both the camping areas. For more information, visit the station website or phone 07 4588 8804.
Toompine Hotel
Located just outside Quilpie, the Toompine Hotel is known for being ‘The pub with no town’ and has limited camping options available next to the creek, free of charge. You can book these by phoning ahead on 07 4656 4721 (no online bookings available). There are some basic facilities available, including hot showers and flushing toilets.
Betoota Hotel
This iconic pub is located around 220km west of Windorah, Qld, and is a popular stopping point for those heading to the Birdsville Big Red Bash. Being quite remote, it’s a good spot to stop with your van overnight and enjoy the free camping and hot showers, available for only $5 a night (or a bit more if you want to sleep indoors in the shearer’s quarters and meet some of the residents of this outback ‘ghost town’. They also serve a classic outback pub dinner for only $25.
Matt enjoys a cold frothy outside the Betoota Hotel
Outback events
Birdsville Big Red Bash
Known as the most remote outback music festival in the world, the Birdsville Big Red Bash is taking a break this year. But the iconic event will be back in 2026, so save the date for 7–9 July 2026 and get ready to rock the Simpson once again. Head online to find out more.
Meg at the Birdsville Big Red Bash
Some other outback events and festivals to add to your list for 2025 are:
Boulia Camel Races: 18–20 July 2025
Held every July, the Boulia Camel Races are a great experience for all ages when exploring remote outback Australia. Tickets range from $60 per adult per day and kids under 18 years can enter for free. There is caravan-friendly camping available onsite, and the price is included in your ticket. Alternatively, book a glamping package for a pre-pitched bell tent.
Broken Hill Mundi Mundi Bash: 21–23 August 2025
As the only outback music Bash happening this year, tickets are selling quick. The festival is held on Belmont Station, with the Mundi Mundi Plains transforming into Australia’s biggest caravan park for three days.
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