Mataranka Thermal Springs, NT (Image Tourism NT)
Hot springs, thermal pools, artesian bores … it seems caravanners love a good soak in the warm therapeutic waters that bubble up from underground and there’s no shortage of spots around the country where you can relax your weary muscles and wash away your worries.
My first experience at one of many hot artesian spa facilities dotted around the country was a couple of years ago during a work assignment to Pilliga, about 100km west of Narrabri, NSW.
Here, at the Pilliga Artesian Bore Baths just a few kilometres east of the small village, the health-giving waters have been flowing up from the Great Artesian Basin for more than 100 years.
Australia’s Great Artesian Basin is the largest and deepest artesian basin in the world. Through much of inland Australia it is the only source of fresh water. The Kamilaroi Aboriginal people used the natural springs from the Great Artesian Basin as a source of water in times of drought. European settlers drilled the first bores into the basin near Bourke, NSW, in 1878.
The Basin extends more than 1.7 million square kilometres (22 per cent of the continent) incorporating most of Queensland, the southeast corner of the Northern Territory, northeastern South Australia and northern New South Wales. It’s estimated to contain almost 65,000 cubic kilometres of groundwater and reaches the surface at temperatures anywhere between 30 to 100 degrees Celsius.
The Great Artesian Drive
Pilliga is one of eight New South Wales bore locations on the Great Artesian Drive which also includes the Boomi Artesian Pool and Mungindi Hot Pool (in the Moree region); Goodooga Bore Baths (130km from Brewarrina) and Lightning Ridge Bore Baths, Walgett Bore Baths and Burren Junction Bore Baths in the Walgett region.
Apart from the obvious health benefits of relaxing muscle tension and providing relief for stiff and arthritic joins, the mineral-rich artesian water is also apparently very good for your skin and your body’s lymphatic system.
Pilliga Artesian Bore Bath is a popular location for caravanners as there is a large campground adjacent to the covered pool. The day we visited it was doing a brisk trade. It reminded me of the 1985 movie Cocoon, in which a bunch of retirement home residents learn about the life-giving waters of their neighbour’s pool, apparently caused by the alien cocoons laying on the bottom. The oldies would sneak in for a swim and emerge looking and feeling younger and stronger. I didn’t emerge looking 20 years younger, but I felt pretty good after a soothing soak of an hour or so.
The large campground adjacent to the Pilliga Artesian Bore Baths
It’s impossible to list all of the artesian thermal pools and baths around the country, but the following are those that editor John Ford and I have visited at various points on our travels.
New South Wales
Pilliga Artesian Bore Baths
About 100km west of Narrabri, Pilliga is accessible on sealed roads and the pool itself is open 24 hours a day. It was originally constructed in 1902, and there have been improvements over the years including a roof constructed over the pool in 1980, toilets/dressing sheds, a barbecue and picnic tables. The pool is floodlit at night.
The water in the Pilliga bore bath is a warm 37 degrees
Next to the baths is a large primitive campground with no power or water. Fees are $5 per night with a maximum stay of four nights. There is no fee to use the baths.
Water temperature is about 37 degrees and it’s a popular spot to sit and watch the sunset. We only stayed one night, but I can see why this spot is popular with folks who make regular return trips to enjoy the swimming and camping.
Narrabri Road
Pilliga NSW 2388
P: 02 6799 6760
Moree Artesian Aquatic Centre
I was not aware of the Great Artesian Drive when we made an overnight stop in Moree, so we camped at the showgrounds and walked the short distance to the Moree Artesian Aquatic Centre in Anne Street.
Having recently undergone a $7 million redevelopment, this attracts 300,000 visitors annually — including many from overseas — who travel to Moree to experience the therapeutic benefits of the hot mineral water that was first accidentally discovered in this region in 1895.
Moree Artesian Aquatic Centre (Images Destination NSW)
The centre has two outdoor hot artesian pools, a private wellness pool, regular pool, gym and a waterslide for kids. Coming soon to the centre will be treatment rooms for a range of experiences such as massage, manicures and acupuncture.
Casual entry for an adult is a paltry $2 and we spent a good couple of hours here lolling about in the 41-degree artesian pool, having regular breaks from the heat by jumping into the much cooler regular outdoor pool. This is well worth a visit.
20 Anne Street
Moree NSW 2400
P: 02 6752 2272
Lightning Ridge Bore Baths
John Ford has visited Lightning Ridge pool a couple of times — the last visit when he was heading to Cameron Corner on a long-term test with an Ultimate Camper. He stayed at the BIG4 Opal Holiday Park which is only a short stroll away and the pool is a popular place for visitors young and old.
“The town boasts that the 40-degree water is two million years old, so even more advanced than our group of grey nomads with whom we shared our evening,” John said. The complex includes the main 20m wide concrete circle (40 degrees) and a smaller, cooler pool popular with children and those who find the main pool too hot. The amenities complex is well maintained, and visitors are expected to shower before entering the pool. Beware not following this protocol because you will be in hot water if you don’t.
Lightning Ridge Bore Baths (Image Destination NSW)
Entry is free, it’s open 24 hours apart from a mid-morning clean and it’s supposedly alcohol free. It’s definitely glass free. Lightning Ridge is a quirky mining town with lots of unusual attractions, so I’d recommend stopping a couple of nights on your way through.
Pandora Street
Lightning Ridge NSW 2834
P: 02 6829 1670
Yarrangobilly Thermal Caves Pool, Talbingo
Yarrangobilly Thermal pool is in the Snowy Mountains between Cooma and Tumut so unlike most of the other sites here, it’s not part of the Great Artesian Basin. Instead, it’s a geothermal spring where rainwater seeps through porous rock many hundreds of metres below the ground where it’s heated before being forced up along a layer of limestone back to the surface. The geothermal water temperature is a constant 27 degrees.
A picturesque mountain setting at Yarrangobilly Thermal Caves Pool
When first built in 1896 the pool became part of the Yarrangobilly Caves complex which was the most popular resort in New South Wales during the early 1900s. The current 20m long pool dates back to 1968. John and Heather Ford visited here in summer and while the swim was invigorating they were ready for another one after the steep climb back to the carpark. The pool can be crowded during school holidays and is popular in winter when surrounded by snow.
The warm waters are a pleasant 27 degrees
Informative signage at Yarrangobilly Thermal Caves Pool
NSW National Parks run tours of the nearby limestone caves and they are as good as any John has seen, so it’s worth making a day of it to combine the two attractions. There’s a picnic area and accommodation at Caves House but the Caves Park isn’t caravan friendly. Yarrangobilly Village campground is another 10km closer to Tumut on the banks of the beautiful Yarrangobilly River. As part of the park complex you need to book a site. Park entry fees apply to the Caves precinct, but pool access is free.
Yarrangobilly Caves Thermal Pool
Thermal Pool Walk
Yarrangobilly NSW 2720
P: 02 6454 9597
Queensland
Innot Hot Springs
The Innot Hot Springs Caravan and Leisure Park is located on the Kennedy Highway, just a few kilometres west of the pretty Atherton Tablelands town of Ravenshoe. We called in for a few days on the way back from Cape York, heading to the Undara Lava Tubes.
Closed during the wet season, the caravan park has six thermal pools, each offering a different temperature of water which comes from the natural hot spring at Nettle Creek next door to the park. Some of the pools are indoor, some are outdoor, some are adults only. There’s lots from which to choose. Be warned, the three indoor pools range from hot to really hot — five minutes in the hottest was about as much I could bear in one session.
Outdoor thermal pools at Innot Hot Springs Caravan and Leisure Park, Qld
According to a website on the history of the areas, Innot Hot Springs became very popular during the 1890s and its large pools of hot water were touted as being on a par with the famous thermal spas of Europe. It became so popular that two hotels and a bathhouse popped up, and there was a weekly coach service from Herberton. The spa water was placed in barrels, carted to Townsville by mule, bottled in a factory and shipped to Europe to be used as medicine.
The pet-friendly caravan park has powered and unpowered sites and some standard rooms with shared facilities and self-contained rooms. If you’re staying at the park, access to the spa facilities is included. However, you can enjoy the hot pools as a day visitor and plenty of folks pop in on their way past. This location is very popular so booking ahead is advised.
Innot Hot Springs Caravan and Leisure Park
16018 Kennedy Highway
Innot Hot Springs Qld 4872
P: 07 4097 0136
Western Australia
Zebedee Springs, Durack
If you’re travelling through the Kimberley — specifically along the Gibb River Road — Zebedee Springs is just a short drive from the campground at the iconic El Questro Station. It’s also do-able as a daytrip from Kununurra.
The springs are open from 7am to 12noon daily and it’s worth the effort of getting there early to avoid the crowds. From the carpark it’s a 1.5km return walk through the forests of towering Livistona and pandanus palms to a series of natural thermal pools and waterfalls. The walk is short and relatively flat with some boardwalk.
A short walk through the Livistona palms leads to Zebedee Springs
Zebedee Springs comprise a series of natural pools and waterfalls (Image Tourism WA)
Once you arrive at the springs, don’t expect ladders, steps or somewhere to sit to take off your thongs. This is au naturel, so you’ll need to do a bit of rock hopping and scrambling to find your own little natural pool. Pop your gear on a nearby rock and if you’re lucky you’ll get to soak for an hour or more in the natural spring water with a constant temperature of about 30 degrees and enjoy the serenity of the forest. The palms keep it nice and shady and cool.
It can get very crowded here during the height of the touristy dry season and it’s not a huge area so plan ahead.
1 Gibb River Road
Durack WA 6743
Francois Peron National Park, Shark Bay
A very helpful lady on the gate at Monkey Mia told us about the hot artesian tub at Francois Peron National Park, about 4km north-east of Denham.
Francois Peron National Park was once a pastoral station, and you can visit the Peron Heritage Precinct to experience how life was on a remote sheep station. The artesian tub is located within the heritage precinct which is about 7km in from the main road on a sandy, corrugated road that is easily doable in a two-wheel drive.
Take the self-guided walks to learn about the history of the area and see how the shearers worked and lived. The small concrete hot tub is located within a fenced off picnic area with tables and benches and a grassed area so you can take a picnic and spend a few hours relaxing.
The road into Francois Peron National Park near Denham, WA
The hot tub is located within the heritage precinct
This water is hot. We’re talking 42 degrees, so you need to take regular breaks. And the water is straight out of the ground so don’t wear your best swimmers as they may get a little grubby.
It is lovely though. We shared a dip with a tour group of English folks returning from a bus tour up to Cape Peron. After they left, we continued to enjoy our G&T and watch the sunset. WA National Park entry fees apply.
Peron Road
Shark Bay WA
P: 08 9948 2226
Northern Territory
Elsey National Park
The Stuart Highway from Port Augusta to Darwin runs straight through the small town of Mataranka. The novel We of the Never Never is author Jeannie Gunn’s autobiographical account of living at Elsey Station near Mataranka in 1902.
There are two natural thermal pools within Elsey National Park at Mataranka and Bitter Springs.
We chose to stay one night at the Bitter Springs Cabins and Camping on Martin Road, just a 10-minute walk from the springs. While we were checking in the lady suggested we buy a pool noodle each and it was worth the $10 for two.
Good walking paths to Bitter Springs
If you don’t want to walk to the springs, there is a sealed carpark and concrete paths through the forest of Livistona palms to reach the springs. There is good infrastructure here including stairs and handrails leading into the water.
The water here is very warm all year round. We hopped in with our noodles, floated downstream for a couple of hundred metres enjoying the tranquillity, then hopped out, walked back to the start and did it all again. This park requires visitors to have an NT Parks Pass. And one night was not enough. Next time we’ll stay longer.
Mataranka also has thermal pools at the nearby resort, but you can still take a dip even if you’re not a guest. John and Heather parked in the designated area and it’s then a 300m walk along paths to the pools, which are more formal with concrete paths along the sides and less of an opportunity for float with the flow.
The Mataranka thermal springs (Image Tourism NT)
Stuart Highway
Mataranka NT 0852
P: 08 8975 4560
Katherine Hot Springs
With so much else going on in Katherine, their hot springs are often overlooked. The springs are not far from the town centre on the banks of the Katherine River where a series of six interconnected pools is landscaped with rock walls and paths. Stainless steel steps give safe access including a disabled ramp.
John and Heather stayed at the Riverview Tourist Park Caravan Park which is next door and getting there requires a walk of about 800m down a moderate hill. There’s public parking and toilets from Riverbank Drive and an easy boardwalk from there.
The natural hot springs in Katherine are often overlooked
They got there early and were the only ones swimming, but it can get busy later in the day and crammed in the school holidays. The water was diamond clear and a warm 25 degrees. Locals suggested not leaving your valuables lying around and maybe avoid late afternoon visits.
Entry is free. It is open 7am to 7pm and closed at times in the wet season when the river rises.
Katherine Hot Springs may be closed during the wet season
Riverbank Drive
Katherine NT 0850
P: 08 8972 5500
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