Miriam Blaker goes on a caravanning adventure through the natural paradise of Kangaroo Valley in New South Wales.
Nestled deep in a lush valley, surrounded by the scenic Cambewarra and Barrengarry mountains, plenty of wildlife and a flowing river — you’d never guess we’re only two hours from the hustle of Sydney. That’s the beauty of NSW’s Kangaroo Valley.
We stayed at Bendeela Recreation Area, a caravan-friendly campground run by NSW Water, in the heart of Kangaroo Valley. There’s no mobile reception, but as cliche as it might sound, we felt a connection to something far greater. Surrounded by serene natural beauty and feeling content enjoying a meal of steak and red wine after setting up camp, life was good. However, just a few hours earlier, things weren’t quite so calm.
Getting to Bendeela Recreation Area
A 10-minute drive from the small town of Kangaroo Valley on Moss Vale Road, Bendeela Recreation Area a popular place for Sydney day trippers, weekenders and caravanners with all size rigs. It does, however, pay to be aware that if you’re coming from the north, the road down Barrengarry Mountain into the valley is steep, long and windy. If you’re towing a caravan the steepness may work your tow vehicle and van hard — it did for us.
Unbeknownst to us at the time, and as we were to discover on the descent, our caravan brakes weren’t working properly and brake fade and smoke from the front callipers caused us to have to stop before we reached the bottom of the mountain. Fortunately, there are a few spots where you can pull over but admittedly, it was a tad stressful. From there we continued to take it slowly and, having allowed the brakes to cool down, reached the bottom with no further dramas. Still, don’t let the steep road deter you as this is a spectacularly beautiful area.
This is where we had to pull over coming down into the valley
Setting up camp
Bendeela Recreation Area is the perfect retreat for nature lovers. It's a lush green oasis, surrounded by rolling green hills and set right on the banks of the Kangaroo River arm of Lake Yarrunga (Tallowa Dam), just out of Kangaroo Valley. Lake Yarrunga and the Kangaroo River supplies water to Kangaroo Valley township, Sydney and the Shoalhaven. Be mindful that in times of high rainfall and flooding the campground might be closed.
Great amenities and lots of space at Bendeela Recreation Area
If you’re planning to stay overnight, bookings are a must and can be made online. But once you arrive you can choose your own site, and you won’t have too much trouble finding a spot, even on weekends when Sydneysiders flock for a quick escape. With a river to cool down in, whether it’s to swim, kayak, canoe or fish, Bendeela is a favourite getaway for many. During the summer months a mobile canoe hire van often comes by.
The huge campground is divided into two sections, one of them usually only open in peak school holiday times, Christmas and Easter. There’s a small booking fee payable online (do it before you arrive) but otherwise it’s free. Within each area is a block of well-maintained flushing toilets, rubbish bins and plenty of space to spread out. No fires are allowed. There’s a dump point and tap water which is treated and drinking quality.
Wildlife encounters are almost guaranteed here and because of this there’s a strict no dogs policy. Ducks waddle up from the river and at dawn and dusk in particular you might find you’re sharing your campsite with a few friendly locals. Kangaroos roam freely, especially during the day, as they’re obviously used to humans and at night wombats come out in their droves. Take a torch and go spotlighting. There are many burrows along the river, although often you don’t need to go very far as they’re known to amble through campsites.
Kangaroos at camp
The village of Kangaroo Valley
For those who prefer to be closer to town, the Kangaroo Valley Holiday Haven caravan park is on the main road into Kangaroo Valley and right next to the iconic Hampden Bridge. It’s small, has a natural bushland feel, fire pits and kayaks for hire to explore the river. There’s a water tank mural in Riverside Park and the Pioneer Village Museum is a short walk from the caravan park.
Across the other side of town is Kangaroo Valley Glenmack Park, a family-friendly caravan park with unpowered camp sites, villas and cabins. As well as having a pool, playground, jumping pillow and mini golf there are some resident farm animals. With sheep, alpacas and ponies to pat and feed, Glenmack Park has a farm stay vibe and is a favourite with families. There’s also a general store, coffee shops and various food options along the main road.
The Kangaroo Valley township
Despite not having any power at our campsite at Bendeela Recreation Reserve, it's a great location and only a short drive from Kangaroo Valley village with its beautiful patchwork quilt of farms and the rainforest clinging to the steep slopes. With small creeks that cross the valley floor and the old-world rustic charm of a village that has emerged over the years, you can see why the entire town was classified by the National Trust in 1977. And it’s a magnet for not only those visiting for leisure but also people wanting to buy into a ‘tree change’.
Stroll through the village and enjoy a coldie or a meal at The Friendly Inn. Explore the craft shops, coffee lounges and tea rooms and check out the red old fashioned telephone box outside the pub. We couldn’t resist taking some fun photos here. Close by is the historic Hampden bridge, named after the then-governor of New South Wales, Lord Hampden. Built in 1895 to provide tourists with a route across the Kangaroo River. It also connects the Southern Highlands to the coast and, in past days, allowed easier transport of local produce. With its gothic twin sandstone towers that make it look like the entrance to a medieval tower, Hampden Bridge is incredibly photogenic. Today it’s the only surviving suspension bridge of that era in New South Wales.
The town boasts many eateries
Historic Hampden Bridge
In town you can hire a canoe and enjoy a row on the water or stroll along the Historic Pioneer Walk and discover many heritage-listed buildings. There are picnic table and barbecue facilities on both sides of the river. Many Sydneysiders visit for the day, content with lunch and craft shops, to walk across the iconic bridge and generally relax. However, a longer stay means you can explore many of the other attractions and surrounding national parks.
Waterfall haven
Beyond the beautiful township is Morton National Park and the dramatic Fitzroy Falls nestled in a valley almost entirely surrounded by sheer sandstone cliffs. Enjoy the drive from Kangaroo Valley township to Fitzroy Falls. Although it’s only 17km away, the windy road and views over the valley make it an exhilarating drive (even more so if you leave the caravan back at your campsite like we did). Once you’ve parked, there are a couple of waking tracks in the area. The most popular one is the West Rim Track, a moderate 3.5km return route with many different viewpoints along the way, including the stunning trickles and ferns around the Grotto that makes you feel as though you’ve stepped into a fairy tale. You’ll gaze in awe at the spectacular views at each lookout and, if you’re lucky, you might even spot a lyrebird.
The West Rim Track is a must-do
Located under 20km from Fitzroy Falls, Belmore Falls walking track is another short bushwalk (1.8km return) that leads to a two-tiered majestic waterfall that drops 80m into the Kangaroo Valley. There are a number of trails, three main lookouts and all are easy to reach. It’s hard to truly comprehend the scale and the scenes are stunning, not just the falls themselves, but the cliffs, the valley and the falls in the distance. Make sure you also check out the Hindmarsh lookout which is just a couple of minutes’ walk from the car park. While you can’t see Belmore Falls from here, the view of Kangaroo Valley is magnificent.
For those chasing more waterfalls there are others in the area like Granite Falls and Tianjara Falls, both within a reasonable distance of Belmore Falls. Carrington Falls was my favourite of all the waterfalls in the Kangaroo Valley. It plunges 90m down the mountainside, a mesmerising sight that would be even more spectacular after rain. There are three main viewpoints which all have easy access from the main Carrington Falls car park. The trails are all paved and easy to walk. From up above you get to see the falls in all their magnificent, awe-inspiring might.
If you’re visiting on a hot day, there are a couple great spots for swimming that aren’t too far away. Nellies Glen picnic area is one of them, featuring a shallow, secluded rock pool that’s particularly popular on weekends, so get there early as there’s limited parking. It’s well signed and the car park is only a 1.8km drive from Carrington Falls. Nearby Blue Pool is less popular but also a stunning swimming hole which is aptly named if you catch it in the right sunlight.
If all this exploring works up a hunger, there are a number of food options in the area. My recommendation would be to head out to the scenic township of Robertson which is only an 11km drive from Carrington Falls or 30km from Kangaroo Valley.
Campground at Carrington Falls
Indulge at Robertson
For a tiny village, you’re spoilt for choice here. If you’re a cheese lover, head out to the Robertson Cheese Factory where you can taste and purchase a huge variety of these locally made products. Or just head to one of the caCampground at Carrington Fallsfes where you can sample some for lunch. There’s a huge variety of cafes, pie shops and delis in town including Cafe 31, Mumma’s Country Kitchen, The Buzz Cafe, Moonacres Kitchen and, our choice, the Robertson Pie Shop. After all, you can’t visit Robertson without dropping in for a famous pie — it’s a Southern Highlands Institution.
Not surprisingly there’s a steady stream of cars, bikers and campers that stop at this famous pie shop. It’s located just before the turn off onto Jamberoo Mountain Road for Carrington Falls, Illawarra Fly Treetop Adventures and only a five-minute drive from the town centre.
When we were here, we had the pleasure of not only enjoying a delicious hearty pie but also the delightful company of some chatty, colourful parrots and their local owner. You never know who’re going to meet in these quirky country towns.
Things to do near Robertson
Illawarra Fly Treetop Adventures is around a 16km drive south–east of Robertson, and as the name suggests it’s where you can walk high up in the treetops for incredible bird’s eye views over the rainforest canopy.
For more rainforest magic, head out and wander the Minnamurra Rainforest. It’s around 19km further from Illawarra Fly Treetop Adventures, or 30km from Robertson. When we were there parts of the Lyrebird loop Walk was closed but there were still sections of the boardwalk accessible, a beautiful place to go for an afternoon rainforest walk. We didn’t make it to Minnamurra Falls as it was getting dark, but we figured we’d had our quota of waterfall wonders for the day. Still, cabbage tree palms, hanging vines, strangler figs and hundreds of other prehistoric looking plants lead you along scenic suspension bridges in this rainforest setting. If you visit on a quiet day, you’ll hear only the sounds of the birdlife and water flowing through the creeks.
Waterfall country
A lasting impression
After finishing our tour through Minnamurra Rainforest, we headed back to camp for a peaceful night. What a perfect place to end the day and reconnect with nature, surrounded by the beauty and charm of Kangaroo Valley.
Planning your trip to Kangaroo Valley, NSW
Where to stay
Bendeela Road
Kangaroo Valley NSW 2577
P: 1300 662 077 (Water NSW)
5 Moss Vale Road
Kangaroo Valley NSW 2577
P: 02 4406 1900
E: kvalley@holidayhaven.com.au
215 Moss Vale Road
Kangaroo Valley NSW 2577
P: 02 4465 1372
Best places to visit
1301 Nowra Roa
Fitzroy Falls NSW 2577
E: parks.info@environment.nsw.gov.au
This national park is almost always open (7am to 7pm daily) but may have to close at times due to poor weather. Check online or at Fitzroy Falls Visitor Centre for the latest information.
There is a parking fee of $4 per vehicle per day for the Fitzroy Falls area.
Open 9am to 4pm daily.
1301 Nowra Roa
Fitzroy Falls NSW 2577
P: 02 4887 8270
E: FitzroyFalls.VisitorCentre@environment.nsw.gov.au
To visit Belmore Falls from Fitzroy Falls, turn left into Myra Vale Road about 2km east of the Fitzroy Falls, then turn right into Belmore Falls Road. Parking is available at the Hindmarsh lookout, the first of Belmore Falls walking track’s four lookouts.
Open Monday to Friday 7am to 5pm.
Weekends and Public Holidays 8am to 5pm.
4400 Illawarra Highway
Robertson NSW 2577
P: 02 4885 1330
E: robertsonpieshop@acenet.com.au
182 Knights Hill Road
Knights Hill NSW 2577
P: 02 8251 7810
Located in Budderoo National Park. There is a park entry fee of $12 per vehicle per day.
345 Minnamurra Falls Road
Jamberoo NSW 2533
P: 02 4236 0469
E: Minnamurra@environment.nsw.gov.au
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