Dangar Falls near Dorrigo (Image Bellingen Shire Council)
The Waterfall Way is one of New South Wales' best road trips, full of epic lookouts and easy trails. And if you bring your caravan with you there are plenty of places to camp.
The Waterfall Way can be travelled from either the east coast near Coffs Harbour or the New England High Country region near Armidale. End to end the drive takes under three hours but, unless you need to get from the coast to the country quickly, why rush it? For those with time on their hands, a caravan in tow and sightseeing in mind, this mini road trip packs a big punch.
The Waterfall Way scenic drive spans 185km and, like its name suggests, is a road trip filled with waterfall wonders and many twists and turns. Is it better to go up or down? After all, there’s a bit of braking required on the descent. Well, of course that depends on where you’re starting from and where you intend to go afterwards. If you’re coming along the coast from Bellingen, it’s a windy climb towards Dorrigo National Park where the temperature dips. For us, travelling towards Armidale and heading northwards towards Tenterfield and beyond, we decided to find a base close to Armidale and explore without the van.
Stunning views in Dorrigo National Park (Image Bellingen Shire Council)
It is, however, perfectly suitable to tow a caravan the entire way. Plenty of big trucks and RV travellers use this route. Just take it easy coming up or down the mountain at Dorrigo and keep in mind some of the waterfalls and detours are off the main bitumen road.
Weaving between World Heritage-listed national parks, sweeping valleys, dramatic gorges and of course lots of waterfalls, there are plenty of opportunities for scenic stops and incredible lookouts, many which sit right beside the road.
Australia’s highest town
At an altitude of almost 1000m above sea level, Armidale offers colourful autumns and cool summers. This graceful university city, renowned for its lively arts scene and grand architecture, is the stepping stone to some pretty spectacular scenery along the Waterfall Way.
We considered stopping at the Armidale Showground on Dumaresq Street with its excellent amenities, laundry and camp kitchen. It’s decent value at $30 for a powered site or $25 for unpowered and is located only minutes away from Armidale’s centre so it’s a great option if you want to explore the heritage buildings and attractions, including the brilliant Aboriginal Cultural Centre and Keeping Place.
Our base: Dangars Gorge campground
Preferring a more secluded and bush-like setting, we topped up our water at the showgrounds, booked our campsite and ventured the 23km out to Dangars Gorge campground, located within Oxley Wild Rivers National Park. The road is easily accessed by rigs of all sizes, although the last 7km is unsealed and can be rough and corrugated.
There are only seven sites at this bushland campground so make sure you book your spot through the NSW National Parks website before you arrive. Each campsite has a fire pit and some have picnic tables, with drop toilets located nearby. With only two other groups there when we visited, it had a peaceful vibe. It was dry and dusty during our visit, so the water taps near the campsites were very welcome.
Wildlife is abundant at night, so don’t be surprised if you end up sharing your site with a visitor or two. We had a curious brushtail possum who was quite at home in the tree behind us and he showed up each night.
Campsite at Dangars Gorge
Dangars Gorge
Dangars Gorge is magnificent, a place carved from millions of years of erosion and is remarkably easy to get to. If you visit after heavy rain the falls will be dramatic. Although dry during our visit, the gorge is impressive in any season. It’s only a short walk to the closest lookouts from the camping area where you’ll find awe inspiring views over the valley and deep into the gorge.
Over the course of the day the colours change as the sun hits the gorge walls. The area is a photographer’s dream, not to mention a walker’s delight with seven lookouts in total to explore, although you definitely don’t need to do the full 10.8km trail that connects six of the lookouts to get a sense of the vast wildness here.
The Dangars Falls Walking Track includes the Falls Lookout, which is just 100m from the car park, and Falls View is 350m each way. Both of them provide a grand perspective of the canyon. After these lookouts, cross the Salisbury Waters over the bridge and pass through a gate — the famous dog fence. Quite a surprise that the 5614km Dingo Fence that stretches from South Australia to Queensland actually passes through Dangar Falls. It’s now called the ‘Dog Fence’ as it’s as much for keeping out feral dogs as dingos. After passing through the gate you’ll reach Falls Look Down.
Cooling down along the Salisbury Waters walking track in Oxley Wild Rivers National Park
Climb the steps from there to Rock Wallaby Lookout for more dramatic views of the gorge and, if you’re lucky, you’ll see some resident rock wallabies. Beyond that it’s another 2.2km to McDirty’s Lookout, but for us, with the sun fading, it was time to turn back.
Wollomombi Falls
From Dangar Falls it’s about 60km to reach Wollomombi Falls or if you’re coming from Armidale it’s a short drive (30 minutes). Either way these falls shouldn’t be missed as they’re one of Australia’s greatest and undoubtedly a highlight of the Waterfall Way. Even on a dreary and cloudy day the view is something special. Just 300m from the carpark you’ll reach the main viewing platform where you’ll see the Woolomombi Falls in all their glory.
Wollomombi Gorge, Oxley Wild Rivers National Park (Image Bellingen Shire Council)
Overhanging the edge of the gorge, the lookout stares straight out at the dramatic gorge walls amid the torrent of the falls alongside the smaller Chandler Falls. You can see how the name Woolomombi, deriving from the Indigenous word meaning ‘the meeting of the waters’ is so fitting. The Wollomombi and Chandler rivers collide in spectacular fashion.
Back at the car park signs point to bigger walks. A flat 4km return walk along the Wollomombi Walking Track is a great place to soak in more views including vistas at Eagle View Lookout which looks directly into the heart of the gorge. Before you leave the area take a drive to Edgars Lookout, located just a few minutes away, for more stunning valley and cliff vistas.
New England National Park
Continue your drive through to the New England National Park, where highlights include Point Lookout and the Tea Tree Falls walking track. The forest looks almost prehistoric here with long moss hanging on branches and a trail full of eucalypt, banksia and tea trees. The easy 4km return trail starts from Thungutti campground, which is not suitable for caravans.
Views from Point Lookout, New England National Park (Image Destination NSW)
Point Lookout is a little off the beaten track from the Waterfall Way but is well worth the detour. On a clear day, you’ll see views from the rainforest to the ocean, from Coffs Harbour to Port Macquarie and in between untouched wilderness stretches in all directions. There are plenty of walking trails that begin at Point Lookout. Or simply pack a picnic and soak up the breathtaking views. In wet weather the unsealed road to the lookout might be unsuitable for caravan and motor homes.
Waterfalls along the way
Located roughly halfway between Armidale and Dorrigo, Ebor is the nearest town to New England National Park, about a 25 minute drive away. Check out the photogenic Ebor Falls — they’re easy to get to and worth a stop. When we visited, some of the areas were still fenced off due to fires a few years ago but you could still walk down to the cliff and see the dramatic falls with its two levels. The walking track only takes about fifteen minutes. For us, Ebor Falls was a great picnic lunch spot.
Ebor Falls (Image Harrison Candlin)
A slight detour into the Cathedral Rock National Park gives you the opportunity to do the popular 6km loop walk around Cathedral Rock, a trek that takes in rock formations that look almost prehistoric. However, the beauty of the Waterfall Way is that many of the best views don’t require big hikes.
Cathedral Rock National Park (Image Harrison Candlin and Tom Woods)
Dorrigo National Park
Dorrigo National Park’s Skywalk lookout is a perfect example. Located next door to the Dorrigo Rainforest Centre, the aptly named Skywalk extends for more than 70m and offers a bird’s eye view of the national park and surrounding areas, across the Bellinger Valley and to the Pacific Ocean.
Skywalk lookout, Dorrigo National Park (Image Bellingen Shire Council)
Crystal Shower Falls, Dorrigo National Park (Image Destination NSW)
Another magical walk is to the aptly named Crystal Shower Falls where you can cross a suspension bridge and walk behind the waterfall.
Within Dorrigo National Park the most popular waterfall would have to be Dangar Falls, not to be confused with Dangars Gorge Campground where we left our van. From the Dangar Falls elevated platform you can enjoy gorgeous views of the 30m falls and landscape (there’s also a picnic area with tables for a pit-stop), and if you take the short walking trail to the bottom of the falls, you’ll find a perfect place to cool off and enjoy a swim.
Aerial of Dangars Gorge Campgrounds (Image Dangar Falls Lodge)
If you want to stay close to the falls there’s nowhere better than the Dangar Falls Lodge, a great spot with great caravan and camping facilities and just a few kilometres out of Dorrigo.
Bill Gibson began Dangar Falls Lodge and camping area when he relocated the Nurses Quarters from the Dorrigo Hospital in 1995 onto his farm, which borders the Dangar Falls waterfall area. ‘The Lodge’, as it became affectionately known, had been a great passion of Bill’s and he spent many hours greeting and attending to his guests. Now, at the ripe age of 91, Bill has hung up his hat and passed on the reins of his beloved lodge to his family who continue its legacy with the same passion and enthusiasm. Along with the lodge there are seven powered sites for camping or caravans and 20 unpowered sites. Toilets and showers are located under the verandah on the northeast corner of the lodge.
Dangar Falls
Dorrigo to Bellingen
Slow down as you drive from Dorrigo to Bellingen, open your windows and soak up the sounds and the smells of the rainforest, the birdlife and the spray from Sherrard and Newell falls as you drive slowly by these roadside cascades. It feels like another world as you enter Bellingen. It’s quaint and relaxed. Shops seem to be lifted from a different century and eclectic cafes, breweries and art galleries all sit at the mountains. There are plenty of great places to stay including the picturesque Bellingen Showground.
The other end of the Waterfall Way
Urunga is officially the end of the Waterfall Way. Or the start, depending on your journey. Say goodbye to the waterfalls and enjoy getting close to nature on the Urunga Wetlands and stroll the iconic and picturesque boardwalk. If you’ve towed your caravan down, the Reflections Urunga – Holiday Park on the main reserve might be the perfect place to pull up for a while. Just book in advance if you’re travelling in the peak of summer.
Whichever direction you travel from, whether you stay at Dangars or Dangar without the s, The Waterfall Way is a stunningly beautiful route. It’s like two bookends, hiding a hoard of secret treasures in between, all of them beckoning to be discovered.
Urunga Wetlands boardwalk (Image Harrison Candlin)
Where to stay with your caravan
Armidale Showground
5 Dumaresq Street
Armidale NSW 2350
P: 0400 639 630
E: armidaleshowgroundtrust@gmail.com
Corner of Black and Hammond Street
Bellingen NSW 2454
P: 0490 537 047
E: campingbellingenshowground@gmail.com
180 Coramba Road
Dorrigo NSW 2453
P: 0448 693 541
E: dangarfallslodge@gmail.com
Oxley Wild Rivers National Park
Dangars Falls Road, Dangarsleigh, NSW 2350
Sites are marked and bookings through
National Parks Contact Centre
P: 1300 072 757
E: parks.info@environment.nsw.gov.au
Reflections Urunga – Holiday Park
2 Morgo Street
Urunga NSW 2455
P: 02 6655 6355
E: urunga@reflectionsholiday.com.au
More information
Dorrigo Visitor Information Centre
36 Hickory Street
Dorrigo NSW 2453
P: 02 6657 2486
E: tourism@bellingen.nsw.gov.au
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