Henry Lawson once wrote “If you know Bourke, you know Australia”, and those words still ring true today. This is a land of sweeping red plains, starry nights and days spent exploring the rugged natural surrounds that is home to a rich and ancient history.
Being Bourke born and bred, I’ve something of a soft spot for this remote outback town in northern New South Wales. Tucked on the banks of the Darling-Baaka River in remote north NSW, Bourke’s claim to fame is that it was once one of Australia’s largest inland ports exporting wool down the Darling to the Murray River to South Australia and beyond. While the river trade is long gone, the town has become a favourite for many travellers as the gateway to Australia’s real outback.
Back O’ Bourke Information and Exhibition Centre
A great place to start your Bourke adventure is to head to the Back O’ Bourke Information and Exhibition Centre. The staff will be able to help with any enquiries, but make sure you allow time to experience the centre’s many informative and artistic exhibits to learn more about the town’s history. The Standing Stories sculptures self-guided and audio-visual tour is particularly good and reflects the life and stories of some of the 22 Indigenous language groups of the Bourke area.
The Back O’ Bourke Information and Exhibition Centre
Bourke’s river history
At the height of river trade Bourke once had three wharves that serviced some 200 paddle steamer cargo barges, and while these wharves no longer stand, a replica has been built at the Wal Mitchell Wharf Precinct. It’s a lovely central spot and great for picnics with towering river red gums and views down to the river.
Afterwards, head to the self-guided walk or drive of the Maritime Trail, a signposted route that winds along the opposite riverbank, beginning at the heritage-listed North Bourke Bridge. This bridge, which has been refurbished to its former glory, is a landmark in its own right and, built in 1883, it is Australia’s oldest moveable lift span bridge.
PV Jandra river cruise
Another way to explore the history of river travel is to book a cruise on the PV Jandra paddleboat. Built in 2000 by a local fruit farmer, Russ Mansell, this boat is a reimagined version of one of the region’s famous steam paddle boats that operated in the late 1880s. Sit back, relax and enjoy the sound of slowly churning water as you cruise down the iconic Darling-Baaka River.
The PV Jandra passing beneath the North Bourke Bridge
Toorale National Park
Located a short drive (around 75km) northwest of Bourke, this national park was once part of a sheep station owned by Australia’s ‘Sheep King’ Sir Samuel McCaughey (Toorale Station). The property became a national park in 2008 and is a great spot for bushwalking, fishing and camping at the original homestead. There’s plenty of wildlife due to the junction of the Darling-Baaka and Warrego rivers and the land has deep ties with the Kurnu-Baakandji people.
Gundabooka National Park
For another national park adventure, head 50km south of Bourke along the Kidman Way to Gundabooka. Stretching across almost 64,000 hectares, this park is home to some fantastic and well-signed walking trails, including the Yapa (Mulgowan) Aboriginal art site walking track to see rock art petroglyphs, and the Little Mountain Track which offers great views from the summit of Mount Gundabooka. So make sure you allow plenty of time to get a good look of it all. This natural environment is also home to several threatened animal and plant species, so flora and fauna lovers will be in their element. For camping, head to the Dry Tank campground which has RV-friendly sites and basic facilities (bookings required).
Aboriginal rock art located in Gundabooka National Park
Mount Oxley
Rising 150m above the otherwise perfectly flat landscape 45km southeast of Bourke, Mount Oxley is another must-visit natural landmark. It is located on a private property (Rossmore Station), so you will need to purchase a permit through the information centre to gain access. Drive or hike to the top and enjoy stunning panoramic views over the surrounding landscape as you explore the rocky hilltop. Be sure to bring your cameras and stay until sunset to watch the outback sky explode with vibrant colours and then transform into a breathtaking expanse of stars. Mount Oxley is great for day trips, but it also has a camp kitchen, bathrooms and camping if you want to stay overnight (bookings required). Caravans will be best suited to the nearby Little Bogan River Camp, also organised via the info centre.
The sun rising over Mount Oxley
Percy Hobson Mural
This beautiful water tower mural greets locals and visitors as they enter Bourke via the Mitchell Highway and is a tribute to Australia’s first Indigenous Commonwealth Games gold medallist, Percy Hobson, who was a Bourke local and set a record for the high jump in the 1962 games in Perth. The mural also depicts handprints of the entire Bourke community and is a great bucket-list item when visiting the town.
If you love appreciating local art, head over to the Back O’ Bourke Gallery to see stunning creations by local artist Jenny Greentree that celebrate the beauty of outback NSW.
Where to stay
We’ve already suggested some great bush camping spots, but if you want to stay closer to town there are some great options.
- Kidman’s Camp: Located on the Darling in North Bourke, there is easy river access, pools, facilities, caravan-friendly sites and cabins available. This is also where the PV Jandra cruises depart and a short walk from North Bourke bridge.
- Mitchell Caravan Park: For a stay more central to town, this caravan park has plenty of facilities, campsites, cabins and even a walk-in aviary.
- Farms Stays: Rose Isle Station, Trilby Station, Dunlop Station and Lower Lila Station are some other great places to take a walk back in time and experience some of the best local ‘backyards’, with plenty to see and do.
The outback is calling
The Australian outback is a land of extremes, and while it has plenty of challenges, there is so much beauty to make up for it. From expansive skies down to the red dirt plains and gumtree-lined rivers, it’s a landscape that beats with life and history — and Bourke is the gateway to it all.
An iconic Bourke sunset
Keep the adventure going
New South Wales is home to some stunning landscapes, small towns and national parks, and road trips are one of the best ways to see it all. The Darling River Run is an iconic way to explore this beautiful state, and to get some top tips on places to visit check out this feature by Ian Bellert.
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