Miriam Blaker discovers some real gems in the historic hills around Nundle, New South Wales.
We didn’t expect to strike gold on the way to Tamworth in New South Wales, a place more commonly known for its music and gigantic guitar. But a detour on the way, to an intriguing town high up in the Hills of Gold, unearthed more gems than we bargained for.
Historic Nundle, located about 68km from Tamworth and five hours from Sydney owes a great deal to the discovery of gold in the 1850s. Keen diggers flocked to the area when gold was discovered at nearby Hanging Rock in 1851 and overnight Nundle was on the map.
‘Nundul’ is an Aboriginal word for mouth, and it perhaps referred to the mouth of the Peel River close by. Back then water was as precious as gold on the diggings, so it was a good thing these early miners were so ingenious. They laboured and built an amazing network of water races and dams so the water could be diverted to areas where it was most needed for sluicing and panning.
Life was pretty tough back then and many miners succumbed to illness and accidents. The Bowling Alley Point, Hanging Rock and Nundle cemeteries became their final resting place. Most people who survived left when the gold petered out and new fields beckoned but some stayed and became part of Nundle’s rich history.
It’s hard to imagine the hardships today as you drive through the town, which is situated among some genuinely spectacular scenery, between the towering slopes of the Great Dividing Range and the Peel River. This region is renowned for its laid-back lifestyle, natural beauty and a generous hospitality and community spirit. During the year there are plenty of quirky events like the annual Nundle Go for Gold Festival to the Great Nundle Dog Race or the Hats Off To Country and the Nundle Campdraft that celebrates this area. In fact, it doesn’t matter when you happen to travel through this region as there’s usually something on each month in Nundle and Hanging Rock that will spark your interest.
Trundle through Nundle
With a population of just under 300 Nundle is a small laid-back town but what it lacks in size it makes up for in personality. It doesn’t take long to walk its length. Drop in at the Peel Inn and enjoy a cold drink or meal. The Peel Inn is the last remaining hotel of the 16 that were licensed and operated in the area during the gold rush era. The story goes that it was won in a card game in the 1870s by John Schofield, forebear of the Schofield family and the present owners. Today fourth generation publican Robert Schofield is the man in charge, he’s run the hotel for the past 53 years with his wife Margaret. It’s a great place for a meal inside or a cold drink in the beer garden outside, underneath the 40-year-old grape vine.
A stroll through town unearths plenty of historic buildings including the Courthouse Museum, the old bank building and various antiques and odd bod shops. A must do is a visit to the Nundle Woollen Mill, possibly the only working mill in Australia, where you can see the process of how a bale of wool is made into yarn. Step inside and see the machinery, sourced from long dormant mills and lovingly restored. Read the interpretative signs and immerse yourself in Australia’s rich wool heritage. Once famous throughout the UK and Europe for producing the finest merino wool in the world, this working mill keeps the tradition alive even today. You can look throughout most of the mill without a tour and then maybe buy a snazzy wool souvenir afterwards at the mill shop.
Drop into the Mount Misery Gold Mine and Museum if you fancy a tour. Situated in a restored coffin factory at the corner of Gill and Oakenville streets, the museum focuses on the goldrush days and features a 120m mine tunnel. Even without a tour it’s worth a visit as it serves the best coffee in town.
Across the road Fossickers Tourist Park houses the Information Centre and a massive collection of rocks, gems and minerals from Australia and around the world. It was closed when we visited but I’m told it’s an impressive collection. The caravan park is smack bang in the middle of town and located on the Peel River. It’s serene, quiet and convenient, surrounded by river and rural views with beautiful lawns and abundant trees. For those who prefer a bit more seclusion there are plenty of places to park the van nearby that won’t cost a penny.
Dam options
About 11km east of Nundle near Hanging Rock is Sheba Dam Recreational Reserve. Set high up in the hills above Nundle, two dams were built by hand in 1888 to store water for sluicing gold. Head up there to camp or even just to spend a few hours exploring. On a sweltering day it’s a cool place to camp, swim, fish, canoe or enjoy a picnic. If you camp up there in the colder months, fires are allowed.
It’s a steep drive to reach Sheba Dam, about 4km of hilly winding road, but it’s sealed and plenty of caravans and camper trailers make it up. Past flooding has caused a few potholes and logging trucks negotiate through these tight roads so take it easy and be alert on the sharp corners. At the campground there’s long drop toilet facilities, picnic area with tables, shelters and a walking track that leads around the dams. It’s well worth the steep drive.
There’s a pier that offers easy access to the water. Or if you prefer more privacy, you can head down a track to the right of the lake. If you have a kayak or something similar this is the good place to enjoy some tranquil time on the water. The dam is small, and no power boats are allowed so you’re guaranteed some peaceful few hours. I’m told the fishing is good but if you don’t catch a trout head to the award-winning Arc-en-Ciel Trout Farm’s dam on Shearers Road, where you can learn how the trout are raised and take away trout from the farm gate shop. If you book ahead, you can dine in at the Drunken Trout Cafe.
You could also go fishing, boating or camping alongside the Chaffey Dam on the Peel River. Built in 1979 initially to supply water to Tamworth, irrigation and stock use, the dam is huge. At 62m high it holds the equivalent of 40,000 Olympic swimming pools.
The foreshore of the lake is popular with both campers and anglers. It’s a bit of a fisherman’s dream as the waters of the lake are well stocked with rainbow trout, Murray cod, silver perch and catfish. It costs $5 per person to camp at Chaffeys overnight with toilets and showers available ($1 fee) and plenty of room to spread out. The lookout nearby is particularly spectacular late in the afternoon with the sun glistening on its vast waters.
Take in the scenery
There are plenty of scenic drives in and around Nundle. Head out to Crawley and follow the route taken by early settlers, gold miners, cattlemen and bullock drivers on their way to Nundle and Hanging Rock. Undoubtedly though the Peel River is one of its biggest drawcards.
Both Teamsters Rest Camping Reserve and Swamp Creek Reserve are free camps that have good bush facilities and they’re right beside the water. You can even try your luck fossicking for gold in the creek nearby (be sure to stay within designated fossicking areas). Further out at picturesque Ponderosa Park, once the site of an old sawmill, you’re likely to find a spot all on your own. Ponderosa is located among huge pine trees within the Nundle State Forest with plenty of room for caravans of all sizes. Within the large area there’s no shortage of vistas and tracks to enjoy. The drive out there is interesting as you pass by the Hanging Rock Cemetery dating back to the mid-1800s.
Here, at the start of Forest Way, is where Mary Ashton, the young wife of circus founder James Ashton, is buried. Mary Ashton died at the age of 19, just days after giving birth to a daughter. At that time Hanging Rock was a hive of activity due to its gold mining. And, though it’s hard to imagine today, the circus once performed over a period of 14 nights. Today the Ashton Circus still tours the world and here remains only a sign telling of its early story and a dedication to the Ashtons. Not far away at the Hanging Rock lookout you can take in the spectacular views from 600m above the Nundle Valley.
Keep your UHF radio tuned in to station 40 as you weave in and out of the tracks within the Nundle State Forest. Logging trucks drive these tracks daily as we discovered when we stopped on a side track to check on our whereabouts. From seemingly nowhere a truck rounded a corner and gave us a heck of a fright. It’s always good to give your location and there’s good signage along the tracks through the forest which makes it easy to communicate ahead. Broadcasting the track you’re on, the direction you’re travelling, and the last numbered post can help.
There was a storm blowing through the area when we visited early last year, with a proposed wind farm dividing the town. Located about 8km south of Nundle and comprising up to 70 wind turbines, the Hills of Gold Wind Farm has reversed the usual expected lines of division. Many born and working in the district see it as a much-needed boost to the town area while others see the project as a threat to Nundle’s unique environment.
This proposed wind farm will undoubtedly change both the visual and economic landscape of this picturesque town. But who knows, it may just be those tight switchback curves, known locally as the Devils Elbow, that makes it impossible for trucks carrying the 80-metre-long blades to negotiate. Time will tell.
However, it plays out, Nundle is a worthwhile stopover if you’re travelling through the area. Whether it’s an overnight stay or longer, the scenic beauty of the hills, the abundance of beautiful spots to park the caravan and the rich, fascinating history of the region will leave you feeling you’ve struck gold.
Contact details
Fossickers Tourist Park (also houses the Information Centre)
103 Jenkins Street, Nundle NSW
P: 02 6769 3355
E: fossikers@outlook.com
Mount Misery Gold Mine and Museum
Cafe adjacent to the museum, as well as a guest house
80 Gill Street, Nundle NSW
Accommodation: 0427 673 100
Cafe: 02 67693459
E: goldmineguesthouse@bigpond.com
Nundle Woollen Mill
35 Oakenville Street, Nundle NSW
Open 10am to 4pm seven days
Mill machinery operates Monday to Friday only
Guided tours 11am and 2pm Mon–Fri Cost $5
P: 02 6769 3330
Peel Inn Hotel
89 Jenkins Street, Nundle, NSW
P: 02 6769 3377
E: contact@peelinn.com.au
Arc-en-Ciel Trout Farm and the Drunken Trout Cafe
52 Shearers road, Hanging Rock
Cafe open Sundays for lunch from 12 midday
Lunch not available weekdays unless it’s a group booking of 12 or more (min two days notice)
Strictly bookings only
P: 02 6769 3665
Sheba Dam Recreational Reserve
11km east Nundle, past Hanging Rock
Facilities include: RV-friendly free unpowered sites, timber jetty, pit toilets, barbecues/fireplaces, picnic tables
THE NEXT STEP
If you want to learn the latest caravan news, find the most innovative new caravans and camping gear or get inspired to plan your next road trip to some of Australia's best getaway destinations and stunning landscapes, subscribe to our weekly newsletter . We promise to send you only the best content.
Related articles:
Tamworth 53rd Toyota Country Music Festival | January 2025
Touring the Upper Hunter Region in NSW with a caravan
Latest News
The best spots to visit in Nundle, New South Wales