When his old three-way fridge packed it in, Editor John Ford settled on a Bushman 190L compressor fridge for his next travelling adventure in the Trakmaster.
Those who follow our travels may recall that the rough tracks of the Kimberley took a toll on our gas fridge last year. When we stopped for lunch one afternoon, a strong ammonia smell clearly showed the coolant had sprung a leak.
This had also happened about 18 months previously, and we had the cooling unit replaced, so it looked like it was time for a new fridge.
We managed without the fridge until we got home, but the time was ripe for a replacement, and we decided a 12V fridge was the best option. Replacements in the same size as the old 150L Dometic three-way fridge were few and far between, and it was looking like fitting a new compressor fridge into the Trakmaster’s cupboard space wouldn’t be as straightforward as I hoped.
However, our research found high praise for the reliability of Bushman fridges from suppliers and many owners. The Bushman 190L fridge/freezer fits the width and depth of the existing cabinet, but it’s about 200mm higher. Some serious cabinet surgery would be required.
Before settling on the 190L Bushman, I called the Bushman team to check on the fridge, explaining that we cover some rough miles and need something reliable. Without huge amounts of battery power, it had to be efficient as well.
I learned that Bushman is an Australian family business which has been supplying fridges for mobile applications since the mid-1980s. It specialises in fridges ranging from small chest and drawer units to the 190L we had in mind. Bushman designs its own cooling units and uses the same trouble-free Danfoss/Secop compressor throughout the model run. It prides itself on fridges with no frills. They don’t have gadgets like wi-fi and Bluetooth and only run on 12V, so there are minimal electronics to cause problems.
The cabinet space left vacant by the old 150L fridge
How three-way and compressor fridges work
Our old three-way absorption fridge operated on LPG, 12V and 240V power, achieving its cooling by heating a mixture of water, ammonia and hydrogen. This mixture cools quickly when converted to gas, which then flows through a cooling web to absorb heat inside the fridge before condensing back into a liquid and being recycled.
A compressor fridge also relies on evaporating a liquid to a gas to supply the cooling, but it converts the gas to a liquid by compression rather than heat. The advantage of the compressor is that it can operate at angles up to 30 degrees and is less susceptible to vibration or keeping the gas alight. So, they are better in an offroad van. When connected to a solar-powered battery, the power supply is renewable and cheaper.
To learn more about RV fridges and how they work, check out our guide here.
The installation process
The thought of cutting up a perfectly good cabinet in the van was somewhat daunting, so I stared at the cabinetry for a good while, trying to imagine what it could look like with a bigger fridge in place. The Trakmaster build is sturdy and well-finished, so I was keen to maintain the look as much as possible and tie everything together so it would handle the movement and vibrations. With some rough drawings completed, we began.
Before cutting the fridge cabinet, I assembled the parts I needed to complete the new cabinet and electrical installation. This included a sheet of 12mm ply, a length of 25mm square trim, glue and silicone tubes, five metres of twin-core 6mm electrical lead and covering conduit, a 20A fuse holder and suitable electrical connectors and screws.
Removing the old fridge was quite straightforward. After removing the retaining screws from the back through the wide vents, we pushed the fridge forward so we could unscrew some bottom plates secured to the floor. Once it was out of the way — with the help of my friend and fellow Trakmaster owner Steve — we cut the top of the fridge cabinet using a circular saw, carefully following the lines of the cabinet.
Cutting the top of the cabinet
We then used a reciprocating saw to cut along the wall and remove the top.
The new fridge requires a good flow of fresh air behind it to dissipate the heat and thankfully the ventilation requirement was the same as the gas fridge, apart from a couple of new holes higher up in the cupboard. Happily, the van already had a 12V extractor fan and an external cover for hot days.
Getting the Bushman into the van was a two-person task, but it fitted into the door snugly, and we soon had it wedged into its slot in the cupboard. Sheet metal fascias, which came with the fridge, screw into predrilled holes on the side and then to the cabinet to keep the fridge secure.
The new fridge is secure
Fitting the brackets
The next task was to wire the fridge into the van’s batteries. We ran the fridge’s Anderson plug through a slot in the cabinet to the storage space under the lounge and fitted a receiver Anderson plug to our length of 6mm twin core wire, which we then ran through the floor and under the van and up through the floor again to the battery compartment. We shrouded the wires with conduit, ensured they were secure and sealed the floor holes to eliminate dust. With the fridge connected to the batteries through a 20A fuse, we connected the power through the Anderson plug to check that everything was working properly.
Power leads under the van
The connection to the batteries
Our final task was to make a cover for the cabinet. Because of the external vent openings, I had to seal the back of the fridge from any dust entering the vents. I should note that, although it’s not Bushman’s preferred method, it’s possible to install the fridge with internal venting, but because the back of our fridge sits on the wheel arch, there wasn’t enough air space under it without lifting it another 50mm higher, which I wasn’t keen to do. I also liked the way that Trakmaster originally mounted the fridge, and I was keen to follow its example to ensure it would stay securely in place.
Fabricating the cabinet top was a bit tricky as the original cabinet wasn’t perfectly square to the wall after thousands of kilometres over corrugated roads. Nevertheless, after a couple of attempts, the top and sides fitted properly, and I trimmed the edges out with some 25mm square hardwood moulding. I saved the front panel from the old fridge, which matched the Trakmaster cabinets, to cover the sides so that the cabinet looked more original.
The front panel from the old fridge was saved
Fitting the side panels
Quiet running
Before we installed the top cover, I could hear the fridge running with a quiet gurgle now and then as the liquid coursed through the internals. But once we sealed the cover with silicone, it became almost silent. Although we haven’t yet slept in the van since the new fridge was installed, I sat in there one evening reading for a couple of hours, and there was only a faint occasional hum from the compressor.
Bushman recommends having at least a 240A AGM battery supply and a 400W solar panel to run the fridge successfully. It uses a maximum of 4A when the compressor is running and an average of 2A over a day. We have been running the fridge for two weeks now, and that suggested power use seems right.
The new fridge is much bigger
I’m impressed with the Bushman fridge’s build quality. We particularly like its generous 45L freezer with a separate door. The fittings and drawers seem sturdy, and a handy locking bar ensures it won’t fly open when travelling. Although we plan to upgrade our van’s 12V power soon, the fridge has been running on our basic 220A setup for a few weeks without trouble, so it’s very efficient.
The Bushman DC190L is $2645 (bushman.com.au) and includes the fitting kit and free delivery. You can call the Bushman team for advice and fitting ideas on 03 8080 9990. The fridge comes with a three-year warranty and a five-year cover on the compressor. They also offer a lifetime phone backup for any service enquiries.
Head to the Bushman website for further information.
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