Three Capes Track in Cape Hauy (Image Tourism Tasmania and Tasmania Parks and Wildlife Service)
Boasting quaint villages, historic sites, stunning sea cliffs and tantalising wines, whiskies and produce ... there’s much more to the Tasman Peninsula than Port Arthur and the Three Capes Walk.
Whenever I visit Tasmania, I’m drawn to the Tasman Peninsula/Turrakana, located in the southeast, an easy 75km drive from Hobart. The region is blessed with natural beauty, from towering dolerite sea cliffs, secluded pristine white sandy beaches, national parks with green forests and a handful of bespoke producers to tantalise your taste buds. Oh, and let’s not neglect the wildlife: sea eagles, Australian fur seals, migrating whales, wombats, wallabies and Tasmanian Devils.
The quaint fishing village of Dunalley
If you’re driving to the Tasman Peninsula, you’ll have to pass through Dunalley (57km east of Hobart). Overlooking the crystal-clear waters of Boomer Bay, Dunalley is slightly north of the narrow isthmus which separates the Forestier and Tasman Peninsulas from the rest of Tasmania. The small settlement town was originally known as East Bay Neck, until 1839 when Captain Benjamin Bayley renamed the town after his cousin Baron Dunalley, who hailed from County Tipperary in Ireland.
A highlight in Dunalley is the man-made 2.4km-long Denison Canal, designed for easy access via boat between Dunalley Bay and Blackman Bay. Construction work on the canal began in 1901. A hand-operated swing bridge was installed allowing road traffic to cross the canal. That was replaced in 1965 by the current concrete bridge which operates via hydraulics.
If you are driving along as a boat is about to pass through the canal, you will be required to wait a few minutes for the drawbridge to swing open so the vessel can pass. Sydney–Hobart yacht racers returning to Sydney often use the canal as a convenient shortcut. The Dunalley Hotel overlooks the Denison Canal and is a great country pub from which to watch any action on the canal, while enjoying a meal.
Dunalley’s main street has a few shops and a waterfront cafe, The Cannery, which overlooks the bay. This large timber building opened as a fish canning factory in 1946.
Forestier Peninsula
The Tasman Peninsula has a few isthmuses — a narrow strip of land with sea on either side. From Dunalley, on the Arthur Highway you leave the main island crossing the narrow 450m-long isthmus — East Bay Neck — onto the Forestier Peninsula. The calm water of Norfolk Bay is on one side of the sandbar, on the other is the wild Southern Ocean.
Before arriving at Eaglehawk Neck take the turnoff to Pirates Bay, then follow Pirates Bay Drive into the Tasman National Park. Find Pirates Bay Lookout for a stunning view of Eaglehawk Neck from the east, overlooking Norfolk Bay. At the lookout you may find Cubed Espresso Bar — a solar-powered espresso bar inside a fully restored 1957 Carapark Caravan which allows you to enjoy the stunning view with an espresso.
On the shoreline at the northern end of Pirates Bay Beach is the Tessellated Pavement. The flattened section of hard rock has eroded into square tiles, caused by the salt crystals in the rock and the constant pounding of the ocean waves over many years. Note: The best time to see the tessellated pavement is at low tide.
Tessellated pavement (Image Tourism Tasmania — Stu Gibson)
At the southern end of the beach there are three naturally formed rock formations, also created by the ocean water and wind erosion.
First is the Blow Hole, near Fossil Bay Lookout, which started as a cave. Depending on the winds the blowhole can blow water up to seven metres.
The Tasman Arch is a short walk from the car park. The Tasman Arch has maintained its top section, the limestone cliffs having worn away into the arch where ocean water washes through.
Further along the path in a cave is the 60m-deep Devils Kitchen — with no top section. Beyond Devils Kitchen are several short walks, the most popular a 3.4km (1.5 hours return) scenic trail along the top of sea cliffs to Waterfall Bay Lookout with vistas of more dramatic sea cliffs.
While you are in the area drive through Doo Town. A local started the trend, naming their beach shack using the word ‘Doo’. The craze caught on and now the town’s shacks have enterprising names like Doo Nothing, Doodle Doo, We Doo and Love Me Doo.
Dr Doolittle: a Doo Town beach shack (Image Tourism Australia — Dan Fellow)
Yet another isthmus
At Eaglehawk Neck an isthmus connects the Forestier Peninsula to the Tasman Peninsula. During convict times (1804–1853) authorities at The Port Arthur Penal Settlement took advantage of the isthmus, establishing the infamous ‘dog line’. Several vicious dogs were chained at stations along the isthmus forming a formidable deterrent to prisoners thinking of escaping from Port Arthur. Halfway along the isthmus at Eaglehawk Neck at the location where the dog line finished in the sand dunes is a memorial statue of a dog chained to a barrel.
The Dog Line historic site at Eaglehawk Neck (Image Tourism Tasmania — Luke Tscharke)
Port Arthur
Before MONA (Museum of Modern Art) came to Tasmania in 2011 the World Heritage-listed Port Arthur Historic site was Tasmania’s most visited tourist attraction. While some may not understand why one of Australia’s first convict settlements holds such appeal, those who like delving into convict history have voted.
The tours are interesting and although it’s not an uplifting place, Port Arthur is somewhere you should visit at least once.
For a different experience at Port Arthur, you can jump on board a tour on the water. Pennicott Wilderness Journeys’ Tasman Island Cruises (open to all ages) offer a couple of cruises; a three-hour cruise takes in the coastline of Tasman National Park, between Eaglehawk Neck and Port Arthur. You may see albatross and sea eagles circling above and dolphins and seals frolicking in the water below. Or you may choose a day tour that also includes the Port Arthur Historical Site.
Tasman National Park Lookout
If you like lavender (like I do) make sure to stop in at the Port Arthur Lavender Farm overlooking Long Bay. An intergenerational farming family has established a peaceful haven of fragrant lavender fields and rainforest across seven hectares. There is a visitor centre and cafe, and entry is free to wander the garden trails. The best time to observe the lavender in bloom is from December through to February.
A short drive (25 minutes) from Port Arthur is the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Coal Mines Historic Site, overlooking Norfolk Bay. Established in 1839, this was Tasmania’s first operational mine and is where Port Arthur’s ‘worst’ repeat offenders of the ‘worst class’ were sent. The mine operated for more than 40 years. Today you can explore the beautiful ruins on foot, walking the trails around the historic site.
To round off a day out, if the weather is agreeable, head to the northwest corner of the Tasman Peninsula. In the Lime Bay Reserve, there’s a great walk through to Lagoon Beach (an easy 40-minute walk). You will discover rocky sandstone bluffs and beautiful beaches where shorebirds congregate.
Three Capes
The tallest sea cliffs in the Southern Hemisphere are found in the Tasman Peninsula and the Three Capes Walk, a 48m track, incorporates three of the most dramatic coastlines around: Cape Raoul, Cape Pillar and Cape Hauy.
Port Arthur is the jumping-off point for the trail designed to be experienced by a wide range of ages and abilities. You can choose either to book through Tasmania Parks and Wildlife and hike independently, staying in designated cabins on the trail; Surveyors, Munro and Retakunna. Or choose a private walking company for a more ‘luxe’ experience. This is a popular four-day hike, so it’s best to book ahead.
The towering sea cliffs at Cape Raoul (Image Tourism Tasmania — Mattea Carson)
Bespoke producers
I cannot leave the story without sharing some of the mouth-watering gourmet experiences waiting for you in the region. You can either stop at these places to taste test or fill your cooler bags and snack on fresh produce throughout your road trip.
On top of a hill overlooking the serene waters of Boomer Bay is Hellfire Bluff Distillery. Its range of vodka, gins and liqueurs are created using local ingredients. The property belongs to a fourth-generation farming family which ran sheep and now grows potatoes which are used in its popular potato vodka.
It focuses on limited releases, such as the popular Paloma and chocolate-flavoured vodkas. The distillery has plans to expand into wine production.
Taking advantage of the spectacular views of Marion Bay and Maria Island, Bream Creek Vineyard’s cellar door, which opened to the public in 2023, has become popular. The tables were packed during my recent visits, visitors keen to try their award-winning cool-climate Tasmanian wines.
Beautiful views at Bream Creek Vineyard
The Bream Creek vineyards were planted in 1974, making it one of the earliest commercial vineyards in Tasmania. Chief Viticulturist Fred Peacock purchased Bream Creek Vineyard in 1990. He increased the Pinot Noir plantings and introduced Sauvignon Blanc and Schönburger (a rare German varietal) — grape varieties suited to the cool maritime climate of east coast Tasmania. The fastest warming ocean current in the world, the East Coast current, crosses the Coral Sea reaching the eastern coast of Australia, at Bream Creek. “Global warming has warmed the sea breeze by two degrees allowing a slower ripening process that enhances the development of the grape’s flavour,” explains Fred.
There is nothing quite like tasting a freshly shucked oyster straight from the saltwater. Blue Lagoon Oysters in Marion Bay opened its farmgate shop in 2019.
“At Marion Bay our water temperature stays more constant,” explains Phil Glover, Farm Manager at Blue Lagoon Oysters. “We’ve got a lot of shallow sandbeds and the water flow from the narrows. On the south end we’ve got the Denison Canal, which helps regulate the temperature.”
Bream Creek Dairy
The Bignell family have been dairy farmers on Stroud Farm for almost 70 years. Three generations of the Bignell family have seen the farm expand from 70 acres in the 1950s to 2000 acres. Its 800-strong Friesian herd produces milk sold as full cream, light and cream-on-top. They also craft artisan cheese from the milk. Not content with dairy products, the Bignells have ventured into fine wine and whisky. Bream Creek Dairy’s The Stroud has a Pinot Noir and a Riesling. The Single Malt Whisky is aged in Port Cask American Oak barrels for eight years.
Your author is dwarfed by Richard and Jack Bignell at Bream Creek Vineyard
View from the restaurant at Bangor Vineyard Shed
Bangor Shed is a hidden gem nestled in the heart of the scenic Tasmanian countryside, near Dunalley. The historic Bangor property has a rich agricultural heritage dating back to the 1820s. Surrounded by rolling hills, picturesque vineyards and breathtaking views of Norfolk and Boomer Bays, the setting is mesmerising. At the rustic vineyard shed, visitors can sample a selection of handcrafted wines ranging from crisp and elegant whites to bold and complex reds. The Shed’s inviting ambiance is the perfect place to relax and enjoy the wines while taking in the tranquillity of the surrounding Tasmanian landscape.
Much like the rest of the scenic Tasman Peninsula, you should stay a while and enjoy exploring this special region.
Plan your trip to the Tasman Peninsula
Getting there
There are plenty of tips for booking a passage across Bass Strait on the Spirit of Tasmania (SOT). Costs vary depending on the time of year, whether it’s day or night sailing and whether you are towing a camper trailer, caravan or motorhome and how long and/or high it is.
Note: because the ship books out early, finding available space for caravans and motorhomes can be tricky. So, if you have a date in mind to visit the Apple Isle, make sure to book your berth on the SOT as far in advance as possible.
Accommodation
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White Beach Tourist Park
(128 White Beach Road, White Beach)
The jetty at White Beach is great for catching squid. Near White Beach is the Pickers Pantry, a rustic food van situated in a pear orchard overlooking Parsons Bay. It offers delicious coffee and homemade vegan cakes and treats (45 Parsons Bay Road White Beach). You can grab a coffee or a delicious homemade treat and sit and relax in a chair surrounded by a working pear orchard. -
Rosedale Homestead
(19 Nubeena Road, Taranna)
This RV camping site is located a 15-minute drive from the Port Arthur Historic Site. -
NRMA Port Arthur Holiday Park
(Lot 1, Garden Point Road, Port Arthur)
This caravan park is in a central location to attractions like the Port Arthur Historic Site and the Three Capes Track. Overlooking Stewarts Bay, you can select a Waterview cabin, safari tent or spacious site. -
The iconic Lufra Hotel
(380 Pirates Bay Drive, Eaglehawk Neck)
Established in 1870, the Lufra Hotel has incredible views over Pirate Bay from the cafe, restaurant and bar.
Accommodation is a mix of hotel rooms, studios and two-bedroom apartments. Lufra Hotel is situated within walking distance to the Tessellated Pavement and Pirates Bay Beach.
Want a night away from the van?
St Martin’s is a beautiful 100-year-old sandstone church that has been lovingly renovated and converted into boutique accommodation. St Martin’s is centrally located in Dunalley. New owners purchased the church in 2019, undertaking a laborious renovation project that took four years. For couples only.
View from above of the Tessellated Pavement (Image Tourism Tasmania — Jamie Douros and Camille Helm)
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