A Visit to Charters Towers, Qld
Charters Towers has a golden legacy. Once hailed as ‘The World’ and Queensland’s second-largest city, it boasts a rich gold-rush history, a beautiful streetscape, iconic landmarks and stunning natural beauty. Its golden history began with Jupiter Mosman’s first gold discovery and a cairn at the base of Towers Hill marks this historic moment.
We had planned to stay three days; however, we all know best-laid plans go astray. After settling into the Aussie Outback Oasis Holiday Park, we were ready to explore. First stop, the Stock Exchange Arcade, where the global gold price was once determined. Opened in 1889, trading began in 1890 using ‘calling of the cards’ in the central courtyard. This once grand, gas-lit arcade eventually fell into disrepair but was restored in the 1970s. In the centre of town is the heritage-listed Lissner Park, and not far away, the Towers Hill precinct beckons, 420m above sea level, towering over the city.

Follow the road for panoramic views, monuments, World War II bunkers (30 in total) and ruins that tell a story. You can drive all the way to the top; however, if you’re keen, leave the car at the bottom and tackle the Towers Hill Walking Track on foot. It’s a steep walk and a favourite exercise track for locals. It’s especially worthwhile at sunrise or sunset. If you visit in the evening, look out for allied rock wallabies and eagles flying overhead.

Charters Towers is easily explored on foot. There are few historic city centres as beautifully preserved as the heart of the Charters CBD. Pick up a map and explore the civic buildings, historic hotels and cottages of the gold rush era.
Immerse yourself with a local tour, perhaps some gold panning, a cemetery ghost tour or get up close to Texas longhorns, the largest herd of these unique beasts in Australia. Spend some time in the Zara Clark Museum or the Historic Ambulance Museum, which opens a window into the heart of north Queensland’s storied past.
Where in the world?
So, why was Charters Towers once called ‘The World’? It relates to the large number of international migrants and the lively shopping on Gill Street. A 7m high, reflective stainless-steel globe now stands to commemorate this history.
A sign nearby says “Anything could be bought in The World, including Chinese herbs and vegetables, imported porcelain from London and shovels and picks for miners. The Towers was known to have the best of everything: hospitals, education, mining, housing and retail.” There was no reason to travel elsewhere.
At the peak of the gold rush, there were 38 licensed hotels operating in Mosman and Gill streets. Records show there were at least another 78 hotels in the region between 1864 and 1911. These days, there aren’t quite as many, but you won’t go hungry or thirsty. Drop into the Charters Towers Visitor Information Centre on Mosman Street to discover more about the region.
Charters Towers served as a major strategic hub in north Queensland during World War II. Aside from the legacy that stands atop Towers Hill and the bunkers etched into the hill, there’s an airstrip built in town, originally for troop dispersal and training, a dedicated war cemetery and many preserved sites.
For a change of pace, head to Burdekin Weir, the source of the region’s liquid gold — water — about 17km north of the city. Although camping isn’t allowed, it’s a peaceful place to throw in a line or enjoy a barbecue or picnic.

Fortune, art and creativity
The newest and biggest attraction in town is the Charters Towers Wall of History. At 7m high and stretching 80 metres long, it’s Australia’s largest handmade mosaic, with more than five million hand-cut tiles. It comprises 12 intricate panels depicting pivotal moments and places that shaped the region from 1872–1922. The creation was a collaboration between Australian award-winning artist Trisha Lambi and local artist Tania Ault. It’s dazzling as it reflects the sun’s rays, bringing the artwork to life.
At night, all lit up, it’s even more impressive. Charters Towers truly transforms into a realm of wonder after dark. Heritage buildings are lit up and glow warmly, creating picture-perfect streetscapes. Head to the Ghosts After Dark film presentation at Towers Hill or hit the Tors Drive-In Cinema for a movie under the stars.

After three days at Aussie Outback Oasis Holiday Park, we moved to a free camp. For many, Fletcher Creek is a popular spot, but it’s an hour’s drive north. However, just 20km out of town is a free camp along the tributary of the Burdekin River, known as Anabranch. It’s accessed 19km north on the Lynd Highway and 2.6km on an unsealed road. For much of the year, Anabranch is cut off from the Burdekin River and in the drier months the waterhole can completely disappear. But after a good wet season, this is a beautiful spot for swimming and canoeing. For two glorious days, it was just us and the birds, peace and a river. Little did we know it was the calm before a storm.
Misfortunes and silver linings
Our ex-mines Isuzu D-MAX had seen its fair share of hard days, and we knew every rattle in it. The best remedy was the stereo’s volume button. However, on this day, barely 30km out of Charters Towers, the car was humming along beautifully, and we’d just commented on it when we suddenly heard a quiet tinkle and looked at each other. “Never heard that one before.” No sooner had we said that than the engine erupted with noise and vibration.
We pulled over and called the RACQ, and it didn’t take long before our car and van were being towed to the only available mechanic in Charters Towers. For us and our van, it was back to the same site at the friendly caravan park in town.
Unfortunately, the mechanics were less than inspiring. They dismantled the dashboard and steering column, and in the process broke the ignition barrel. A day later, we were told the car needed a complete engine replacement; the quote was $19,000 for a second-hand engine. We couldn’t help thinking, did our Victorian rego have any bearing on the price? Would a local have been charged as much?
We declined the repair and paid more than $700 for the diagnostic. Our poor, sad car was barely running, but we managed to get it back to the caravan park just around the corner. And there it stayed.
What do you do when you’re stuck, virtually at the top of Queensland, with a van and no drivable car? There were no rentals in Charters Towers and Townsville was 136km away. Once we declined the repair, RACV Total Care could no longer assist us.
Discussions followed, along with many phone calls, research and lists weighing up the pros and cons of the situation. We needed to get to Townsville; our only option was the train, before fate stepped in. A chance meeting and chat with a couple of fellow travellers in the swimming pool at the caravan park led to an unexpected lift to Townsville. There, we hired a Toyota Yaris and began the process of finding and buying a new car. Our trusty Isuzu D-MAX had served us well for more than six years but it was time to be traded and replaced. Another week passed. Early morning walks became our new norm as we got to know Charters Towers great buildings, streets and shops intimately. Our strolls often ended with coffee and a pie at Burnzie’s Bakehouse, the best bakery in town.
Finally, the day of pick up arrived. We left Charters Towers in a new Mazda BT-50 with a five-year warranty. We were headed to Townsville for a new canopy, then more adventures, twists and turns as we began the long drive back to Melbourne.
Travel planner
Best time to visit Charters Towers, Qld: May to September
What’s on: Charters Towers Show, 26–28 July 2026
Where to stay:
- - Aussie Outback Oasis Holiday Park
76 Dr George Ellis Drive
Richmond Hill
P: 07 4787 8722
W: aussieoutbackoasis.com.au - - The Anabranch Free Camp
Corner of Old Dalrymple Road and Riverview Road
Breddan
W: inthetowers.com.au/anabranch-charters-towers
Handy info:
- - Burnzie’s Bakehouse
1/60 Mosman Street
Charters Towers
P: 07 4405 8686 - - Charters Towers Towing
57 Mosman Street
Charters Towers
P: 0418 778 549
W: charterstowerstowing.com.au - - Charters Towers Visitor Information Centre
74 Mosman Street
Charters Towers
P: 07 4761 5533
W: visitcharterstowers.com.au
The nomadic rule of threes
When on the road, we follow the unofficial nomadic rule of threes. Essentially, it means we drive no more than three hours, travel no further than 300km, stay usually three nights (unless we really like a place) and arrive by 3pm. This way, we’re not on the road at sunset when wildlife can be a risk.
After Charters Towers, the rule of threes was jokingly adapted to include: “Don’t blow up number three cylinder, or it might take three weeks to get a new car.” We never thought that when we arrived in Charters Towers, originally for three days, we’d end up staying nearly three weeks, but that’s the unpredictability of travel, and it’s usually when the best of human nature is revealed. The kind couple who gave us a much-appreciated ride to Townsville. The friendly tow truck driver, Jay, who offered the use of his workshop in Charters if we needed it. The receptionist, Billie, at the Aussie Outback Oasis Holiday Park, who was super friendly and helpful throughout our extended stay. And Craig, the friendly sales guy at Mazda.
Sometimes the universe forces our hand. And sometimes things happen the way they’re meant to. In travel, there are always unexpected detours, lessons, golden nuggets and silver linings along the way. Charters Towers proved that and more.
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