Carnarvon Capers
Queensland is a vast and contrasting land that makes planning a road trip an adventure in itself. With 13 main highways and countless smaller roads crossing the state border you can tailor an itinerary that takes you from the outback to the coast or from inland to the great deserts. For us, coming from the back o’ Bourke in NSW, it’s straight up and across the border at the tiny town of Barringun.
Here The Matilda Way stretches for 1812kms all the way to Karumba, however we’re in no rush. Our route was via Cunnamulla, with a stay at Charlotte Plains Outback Station, onto Charleville with a halfway stop at Wyandra but then we were veering off the Matilda.
SLOW TRAVELLING
For slow travelers, Wyandra, smack bang between Cunnamulla and Charleville is a great way to throw a buck or two into outback communities. Many of these remote towns were inundated with flood waters just six months ago and they welcome travelers with open arms.
Enjoy a Devonshire tea at the Post Office Cafe and browse the shop which has all sorts of oddities and museum type pieces. Out the back there’s a small caravan park and an outdoor cinema and around the corner is a large free campground. All within walking distance to the local pub.
At Charleville choose from six caravan parks or a couple of free camp spots,10kms out, the scenic Rock Pool and an area of free camping along the Ward River. It was getting late, so we opted for the CMCA bush van park, only 2kms out of town, in a peaceful bush setting, with a dump point and potable water. There’s a happy hour and a communal fire lit daily at 4pm. We’re members so it’s only $7 night ($15 for non-members).
Beyond Charleville we turned east towards Mitchell which has two excellent free camping spots at Fishermans Bend and Neil Turner Weir. Our plan was to continue along The Warrego Way to Roma and then head onto the Great Inland Way before venturing east to visit our daughter. Along the way we hoped to explore Carnarvon Gorge, often described as one of the natural wonders of Queensland and a place I’d long wanted to visit.
FROM MITCHELL TO CARNARVON GORGE
Mitchell is famous for its Great mineral spa waters that comes from the Artesian basin. It’s found in a complex comprising the Spa Java Cafe and Visitor Centre with two pools, one hot and one cooler for warmer months.
After our relaxing station stay at Charlotte Plains, with its big skies and quintessential outback baths, we decide to skip the more resort looking pools in Mitchell. In town you can check out the Booringa Heritage Museum and the original courthouse where the last bush rangers, the Kennif Brothers stood trial. Seven kilometres south of Mitchell you’ll find the red Arrest Creek monuments where the brothers were captured in 1902. Back at camp the serene river backdrop at Neil Turner Weir is a fabulous place to throw in a line and relax.
Roma is less than an hour away, 88kms and home of the largest cattle selling facility in the Southern Hemisphere. It’s where “the country meets the outback” and where we planned to buy new tyres for our DMax. Fortunately, there’s plenty of options and we received great service from the guys at Dunlop.
Whilst in Roma go hug the biggest bottle tree, drop into the Visitor Information Centre and check out the Big Rig, a journey through the dramas of the early days of the gas and oil industries in Australia.
For a friendly, inexpensive place to stay Ups and Downs Caravan Park and Station Stay, just five kilometres from town, has an awesome laid-back atmosphere. Choose from either a powered or unpowered site amidst a quirky and ramshackle display of farm equipment, animals and old cars and enjoy happy hour around the communal fire pit each night. It was here we learned about the Sculptures Out Back outdoor art exhibition, held each year from June to September. Despite heavy rain overnight it was worth detouring back into Roma the next morning to see these stunning creations.
From Roma it’s less than 100kms to Injune, gateway to Carnarvon National Park. There’s fuel, food and a Visitor Centre with free camping available at Injune Rodeo, otherwise a powered site at Possum Park Racecourse with water is only $20.
Book Before you go
Carnarvon Gorge in the Carnarvon National Park is one of the most visited and beautiful n Queensland and well worth the 40-minute drive off the highway. The turn off into O’Brien’s Road, halfway between Injune and Rolleston, is sealed all the way into the park. Be mindful of stock wandering the road.
The actual camping area inside the Carnarvon Gorge section of the National Park is open only during the Easter, June-July and September-October Queensland school holidays. At other times caravanners can stay just outside the park, at either Sandstone Park or the Big 4 Breeze Caravan Park (once known as Takarakka Bush Resort). Both are located within five kilometres of the Carnarvon Gorge main walks with bookings essential at any time of the year but particularly in peak times.
Our pick is Sandstone Park. There’s no power here but 59 huge unpowered sites on top of the ridge, all offering spectacular 360-degree views of the surrounding sandstone ranges. Portable chemical toilets are scattered around the grounds, there’s non potable water available and a dump point is close by. We came fully loaded with both water and wood for three days, although bags of wood are available at reception.
Sites are reservation only and regularly fill up, especially during busy periods so it’s best to book early. For those travelling with dogs Sandstone Park is the only pet friendly place in the area, offering kennels while visitors are walking the National Park.
A WALKERS PARADISE
The Carnarvon Great Walk is a stunning hiking adventure, an 87km remote circuit walk that takes in the spectacular landscape of towering sandstone cliffs, sweeping tablelands and shaded side-gorges. However, before you say “forget it, I’m not a hiker” let me reassure you that there’s a section that’s very accessible, with many of the walks suitable for people of most ages and fitness levels. That goes for the author, yours truly, who broke her ankle last September, an ankle that still feels occasionally dodgy.
All walks begin from the unmanned Visitor Centre. Inside are displays and information on the park. Outside there’s plenty of parking, toilets, picnic tables and barbecue facilities amidst manicured lawns and beautiful trees. An insane amount of birdsong fills the morning air. Wifi is only available near the Visitor Centre. Be prepared, particularly in hot weather, wear good shoes and carry plenty of water. Though there’s no phone coverage in most of the park, the main track is very safe and has a constant flow of people walking along it.
Carnarvon’s Main Track is 22kms long, but you can tailor your walking to suit your preferences and tackle any or all sections. There are sidetracks to the Moss Garden, Amphitheatre, Wards Canyon, the indigenous Art Gallery and Cathedral Cave. At Big Bend the graded walking track ends and the remote hiking trail of the Carnarvon Great Walk begins.
We found the tracks easy overall with the only tricky spots being the creek crossings where you’ll need good balance to hop across the steppingstones. Belatedly I realised why so many people were carrying walking sticks. One tip given to us was to walk directly to the furthest point on the main track you intend to visit, taking the sidetracks to other sites on the way back.
Do them all if you can but my main recommendations would be the Moss Garden and the soaring Amphitheater. It’s only 650 metres off the main track to reach the Moss Gardens, an enchanting scene with a small cascading waterfall, elk horns and giant fern trees amid moss carpets on stony walls. Seating nearby is the perfect place to soak up this magical oasis.
Further along, taking another sidetrack, the wow factor continued with sandstone walls towering in front of us. Scale a tiered ladder that’s easier than it looks to a deep and narrow chasm which opens to sheer, steep walls of sandstone, 60 metres high and to a natural skylight. Moss and ferns blanket the sandstone floor to create a surreal atmosphere. Every sound is amplified in this open topped cavern. The Amphitheatre is like stepping into nature’s opera house.
Fortunate to have it to ourselves Doug chose a song from his phone, a powerful version of The Sound of Silence, the acoustics amplified in this natural theatre like setting. Then there’s nothing, pure peace and absolute silence.
The shorter walks are just as impressive in Carnarvon Gorge including the loop walk along the shady banks of Carnarvon Creek, an easy stroll from the Visitors Centre. There’s Mickey Creek which also follows the creek and is approximately 1.5km return from the car park. At the fork in the track drop into the side Warrumbah Creek Gorge to see high walled canyons and moss-covered walls. Go beyond the sign that reads “End of formed track”, the walking track becomes a short rock hopping adventure through a chasm, it’s stunning and worth every step.
From the carpark it’s a short drive to The Rock Pool, the only swimming spot in the park and a nice place for a picnic. If you fancy an ice cream or a well earnt coffee head into the Breeze Holiday Park Cafe with its welcoming alfresco setting.
Later that afternoon it’s a decision whether to light a fire or join others at the communal fire pit overlooking the mountain ridges. Each site has its own personal fire pit and is spacious and huge with enough room for a couple of vehicles and vans, making it popular and economical for groups.
At the time of writing Sandstone Park were looking for new caretakers for the 2026 season, from March until October. Imagine waking up to these breathtaking vistas every day.
While its location on top of a plateau can occasionally be prone to high winds, most of the time you’ll be treated to skies of spectacular beauty. With glorious sunrises, stunning sunsets and complete darkness which makes the Milky Way and the night sky shine, a stay here is off grid camping at its very best. Combined with magnificent walking trails on its doorstep, it will undoubtedly leave you with special memories.
FAST FACTS
Cunnamulla region
Charlotte Plains Outback Station
1993 Charlotte Plains Rd, Cunnamulla
Ph: (07) 4588 8804
E: stay@charlotteplains.com.au
https://www.charlotteplains.com.au
You must have a paid reservation before you arrive
Wyandra
Wyandra Free/Donation Campground
Solar showers/toilets/bins
Charleville
Charleville CMCA Bush Park
75 Adavale Road
Charleville Qld
P: 02 4978 8788
Mitchell
Neil Turner Weir
Located on Alexandra St, 3kms north of Warrego Highway,
on the bank of Maranoa River
Roma
Ups and Downs Caravan Park and Station Stay
78 Hartleys Ln, Orange Hill
Off the Carnarvon Highway Qld
Ph: 0407 740 252
Injune
Possum Park Racecourse
Racecourse Rd, Injune, Qld
P: 07 4626 0503
Carnarvon Gorge NP
Sandstone Park
P: 1800 87 444
https://www.sandstonepark.com.au
Big 4 Breeze Caravan Park
O’Brien’s Rd, Carnarvon Gorge
P: 07 4984 4535
Whether you're planning a weekend getaway or a long-haul adventure, having the right resources can make all the difference when you're out of range. To help you navigate with confidence, you might find it useful to pair your journey with a detailed set of topographical road maps or a comprehensive campsite guide. Explore some of the maps below or visit our store for a full range of products.
QUEENSLAND ROAD TRIPPING – CARNARVON CAPERS