Exploring outback Queensland: Carnarvon Gorge road trip - Caravan World Australia
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Exploring outback Queensland: Carnarvon Gorge road trip

Written by: Miriam Blaker

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Sandstone Park Carnarvon Gorge has unparalleled views


Miriam Blaker hits the road from Barringun on the NSW–Qld border up to Carnarvon National Park to check out one of Queensland’s natural wonders: Carnarvon Gorge. The route takes her through Charlotte Plains station, Wyandra, Charleville, Mitchell, Roma and Injune, with plenty of wide skies, rugged landscapes, hidden gems and some fantastic bush camps along the way.

Queensland is a vast and contrasting land that makes planning a road trip an adventure in itself. With 13 main highways and countless smaller roads crossing the state border you can tailor an itinerary that takes you from the outback to the coast, or from inland to the great deserts. For us, coming from the Back O’ Bourke in NSW, it was straight drive up the Mitchell Highway and across the border at the tiny town of Barringun.


The Matilda Way is a 1812km road route from Barringun all the way to Karumba, however we weren’t in a rush. Our journey took us via Cunnamulla, with a stay at Charlotte Plains outback station, then on to Charleville with a halfway stop at Wyandra, before veering off the Matilda to visit Carnarvon Gorge — one of Queensland’s natural wonders and a place I’d long wanted to tick off my bucket list.


Home of the Cunnamulla fella and artesian watersHome of the Cunnamulla fella and artesian waters


Taking it slow from Charlotte Plains to Charleville (247km)


Charlotte Plains


If you love a detour from the main destination, Charlotte Plains is worth the 40km drive west of Cunnamulla along the Balonne Highway. This family-owned and operated sheep station doubles as a station-stay campground with the added bonus of natural artesian hot springs and stunning views. Enjoy a glimpse into life on a working sheep station with self-drive audio tours and so much more. There’s a licensed ‘Bore Baa’ open during peak season, merch store and the camping area has powered and unpowered sites with various facilities available.


Soak in artesian waters at Charlotte PlainsSoak in artesian waters at Charlotte Plains


Wyandra


For slow travellers, Wyandra — smack bang between Cunnamulla and Charleville — is a great place to throw a few bucks into outback communities. Many of these remote towns were inundated with floodwaters earlier this year, and they welcome travellers with open arms.


Enjoy a Devonshire tea at the Wyandra Post Office Cafe and browse the shop, which has all sorts of oddities and museum-style pieces. Out the back, there’s a small caravan park and an outdoor cinema. There’s also a large free campground with good facilities by the river. And it’s all within walking distance of the local pub.


An overnight stop at WyandraAn overnight stop at Wyandra


Charleville


Charleville has plenty of options for an overnight stay. There are six caravan parks in town, or if you prefer something a bit more rustic, two excellent free bush camps: the scenic Rock Pool (around 12km east of town) and Ward River campground (around 20km out).


It was getting late when we arrived, so we opted for the CMCA RV Bush Park, just 2km north of town. It has a peaceful bushland setting with a dump point and potable water. A communal campfire is let every day at 4pm and there’s a cheerful Happy Hour. We’re CMCA members, so it was only $7 a night ($15 for non-members).


From Mitchell to Carnarvon Gorge via Roma (330km)


Mitchell


Leaving Charleville, it’s a 180km drive east to Mitchell via the Warrego Highway (part of Warrego Way, the road trip route from Birdsville to Brisbane).


Nestled against the Maranoa River, Mitchell offers two excellent camping spots: Fishermans Rest and Neil Turner Weir.


Watching the sunset at Neil Turner WeirWatching the sunset at Neil Turner Weir


Mitchell is famous for its Great Artesian Spa, fed by the Great Artesian Basin. The spa complex also houses the Spa Java Cafe and the Mitchell Information Centre, and there are two pools — one hot and one cooler for warmer months. Since we’d already enjoyed a relaxing station stay at Charlotte Plains, with its big skies and quintessential outback artesian baths, we decided to skip Mitchell’s more resort-style pools.


In town you can check out the Booringa Heritage Museum and the original Kenniff Courthouse where the Kenniff Brothers, who are believed to be the last bushrangers, stood trial. Seven kilometres south of town you’ll find the red, artistic Arrest Creek Police Memorial that marks where the brothers were captured in 1902.


Arrest Creek Police Memorial near MitchellArrest Creek Police Memorial near Mitchell


Back at camp, the serene river backdrop at Neil Turner Weir is a fabulous place to throw in a line and relax.

From Mitchell, our route continued along the Warrego Way to Roma before joining the Great Inland Way route north — with Carnarvon Gorge in our sights.


Roma


Roma is less than an hour’s drive (88km) from Mitchell and is home to the famous Roma Saleyards — the largest cattle-selling facility in the southern hemisphere. It’s ‘where country meets the outback’ and also where we planned to buy new tyres for our D-MAX, just to avoid any unplanned adventures. Fortunately, there were plenty of options in town and we received great service from the team at Dunlop.


While in Roma, make sure you go hug Roma’s Largest Bottle Tree — a 9.62m wide, 20m tall giant — then drop into the Roma Visitor Information Centre and the Big Rig to learn more about the town and the dramatic early days of Australia’s gas and oil industries.


For a friendly, inexpensive place to stay, Ups N Downs Caravan Park and Farm Stay, just 7km north of Roma, has an awesome laid-back atmosphere. Choose from powered or unpowered sites amid a quirky and ramshackle display of farm equipment, animals and old cars, and enjoy Happy Hour around the communal fire pit each night. It was here we learned about Roma’s Sculptures Out Back outdoor art exhibition, held each year from June to September. Despite heavy rain overnight, it was worth detouring back into Roma the next morning to see these stunning creations.


Ups N Downs Caravan Park and Farm Stay in RomaUps N Downs Caravan Park and Farm Stay in Roma

Keep an eye out for art exhibits throughout QueenslandKeep an eye out for art exhibits throughout Queensland


Injune and Carnarvon National Park


From Roma, it’s a 90km drive up the Carnarvon Highway to Injune, gateway to Carnarvon National Park. There’s fuel (top up here), food and a visitor centre with free camping available at the Injune Rodeo Ground (not to be confused with the Injune Racecourse). There’s also powered sites, water and facilities available at Possum Park Racecourse Camping Area for around $20.


Reaching Carnarvon National Park:
Getting there and where to stay


Carnarvon Gorge in the Carnarvon National Park is one of the most visited and beautiful gorges in Queensland, and it is well worth the 40-minute drive off Carnarvon Highway. The turnoff (onto Wyseby Road then Obriens Road) is just over halfway between Injune and Rolleston, and it’s sealed all the way into the park. But be mindful of stock wandering the road.


The campground inside the Carnarvon Gorge section of the national park is only open during the Easter, June–July and September–October Queensland school holidays. The rest of the year, caravanners can stay just outside the park at either Sandstone Park Carnarvon Gorge or BIG4 Carnarvon Gorge Holiday Park (formerly Takarakka Bush Resort and BIG4 Breeze Holiday Park). Both are located within 5km of the gorge’s main walking trails, with bookings essential at any time of year but particularly during peak periods.


Our pick was Sandstone Park. There’s no power available but there are 59 huge unpowered sites on the top of the ridge, all offering spectacular 360-degree views of the surrounding sandstone ranges. Portable chemical toilets are scattered around the grounds, non-potable water is available and there is a dump point nearby. We came fully loaded with both water and wood for three days, though bags of firewood are sold at reception.


Make sure you have a booking before you get to Sandstone Park


Sites are by reservation only and regularly fill up, especially during busy periods, so it’s best to book early. For those travelling with dogs, Sandstone Park is the only pet-friendly option in the area, offering kennels while visitors explore the national park.


Campfire time at Sandstone ParkCampfire time at Sandstone Park


Exploring Carnarvon Gorge on foot


The Carnarvon Great Walk is a breathtaking hiking adventure. Spanning 87km, the remote circuit walk winds through towering sandstone cliffs, sweeping tablelands and shaded side gorges. But before you say, “Forget it, I’m not a hiker”, rest assured — there’s a section that’s very accessible with walks suitable for people of most ages and fitness levels. That goes yours truly, who broke her ankle last year ... an ankle that still occasionally feels dodgy.


An oasis of natureAn oasis of nature

There are many easy walks in the Carnarvon Gorge section of Carnarvon National ParkThere are many easy walks in the Carnarvon Gorge section of Carnarvon National Park


All walks begin from the unmanned Carnarvon Gorge Visitor Information Centre, which offers wi-fi and informative displays. Outside, you’ll find plenty of parking, toilets, picnic tables and barbecues amid manicured lawns and shady trees. An insane amount of birdsong fills the morning air, so allow time to soak it in. Wear sturdy walking shoes, carry plenty of water and be prepared, especially in the heat. There’s no phone coverage in most of the park, but the main walking trail is very safe and has a constant flow of people walking along it.


Carnarvon’s Main Track is 22km long, but you can tailor your walk to suit your preferences, tackling any or all of the sections. There are sidetracks to the Moss Garden, the Amphitheatre, Wards Canyon, the Indigenous Art Gallery and Cathedral Cave. At Big Bend camping area (also features a large natural pool and picnic area) the graded walking track ends and the remote hiking trail of the Carnarvon Great Walk begins.


Concentrating on crossing Carnarvon CreekConcentrating on crossing Carnarvon Creek


We found the tracks easy overall, with the only tricky spots being the creek crossings where you’ll need good balance to hop across the stepping stones. Belatedly, I realised why so many people were carrying walking sticks. One tip given to us was to walk directly to the furthest point on the main track you intend to visit, taking the sidetracks to other sites on the way back.


Do all the sidetracks if you can, but my main recommendations would be the Moss Garden and the soaring Amphitheatre. The Moss Garden is only 650m off the main track and it’s an enchanting scene with a small cascading waterfall, elk horns and giant fern trees amid moss carpets on stony walls. Seating nearby is the perfect place to soak up this magical oasis.


Nature's creations at Moss GardenNature’s creations at Moss Garden


Further along, the Amphitheatre delivers the wow factor with towering sandstone walls. Climb the tiered ladder (it’s easier than it looks) to enter a deep, narrow chasm that opens into a vast natural cathedral with sheer 60m tall walls and a natural skylight. Moss and ferns blanket the sandstone floor to create a surreal atmosphere. Every sound is amplified in this open topped cavern. The Amphitheatre is like stepping into nature’s opera house. We were fortunate to have it to ourselves, so Doug played a powerful version of ‘The Sound of Silence’ on his phone, the acoustics amplified perfectly before fading into pure, peaceful silence.


The climb to the AmphitheatreThe climb to the Amphitheatre

Inside the Amphitheatre is awe inspiringInside the Amphitheatre is awe inspiring


The park’s shorter walks are just as rewarding. The loop walk along the shady banks of Carnarvon Creek is an easy stroll from the visitor information centre. Mickey Creek Gorge walk follows a creek and is approximately 1.5km return from the car park. At the fork in the track turn into the side Warrumbah Creek Gorge to see high walled canyons and moss-covered walls. Going beyond the sign that reads ‘End of formed track’, the walking track becomes a short rock hopping adventure through a chasm — it’s stunning and worth every step.


Doug enjoying the easy Mickey Creek WalkDoug enjoying the easy Mickey Creek Walk

One of the easiest and most stunning sidetracks is into Warrumba Creek Gorge (an offshoot of Mickeys Creek)One of the easiest and most stunning sidetracks is into Warrumba Creek Gorge (an offshoot of Mickey Creek Walk)


From the car park, it’s a short drive to the Carnarvon Gorge Rock Pool, the only swimming spot in the park and a great place for a picnic.


Rest and reflection


After a day exploring the Carnarvon Gorge section of the national park, it was time to head back to Sandstone Park and enjoy some well-earned rest. The hardest decision was whether to light our own fire or join others at the communal firepit overlooking the mountain ridges. Each site has its own firepit, and the sites are spacious, with enough room for a couple of vehicle and vans, making it popular and economical for groups.


Sunrise at the Communal firepit in Sandstone Park Carnarvon GorgeSunrise at the Communal firepit in Sandstone Park Carnarvon Gorge


At the time of writing, Sandstone Park was looking for new caretakers for the 2026 season, from March until October. Imagine waking up to those breathtaking vistas every day.


While the park’s location on top of a plateau can sometimes mean high winds, most of the time you’ll be treated to skies of spectacular beauty. With glorious sunrises, stunning sunsets and complete darkness which makes the Milky Way and the night sky shine, a stay here is off-grid camping at its very best. Combined with magnificent walking trails right on its doorstep, it will undoubtedly leave you with special memories.


Travel planner


Cunnamulla region

Wyandra

Charleville

Mitchell 

Roma 

Injune

Carnarvon National Park

For more information about Carnarvon National Park and Carnarvon Gorge, head to the Parks Qld website.



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