Julia D’Orazio heads to the far-flung archipelago to connect with Tiwi culture.
I couldn’t have picked a better day to be island-bound. The sun was out, the ocean calm … and conditions were ideal to avoid reaching across for a sea sickness bag. I was at Darwin’s Cullen Bay Ferry Terminal, about to bid adios to the mainland, urban living and the way of life I had become accustomed to.
I was about to visit a region few visit — the Tiwi Islands, 80km north of Darwin in the Timor Sea. It’s as Top End as you can get. These islands in the Arafura Sea are Aboriginal land, with all visitors requiring a permit. Thankfully, these can be obtained effortlessly on a guided tour. There are two-day trip options to visit the Tiwi Islands — either on a scenic flight or, the more affordable option, a two-and-a-half-hour fast ferry ride with SeaLink, which I was on.
Touring the islands
The Tiwi By Design tour provides a glimpse into the Tiwi ethos by visiting Bathurst Island, one of 11 islands that make up the faraway archipelago. Home to a population of 2600, the islands are rich in Indigenous culture and history, with roughly 90 per cent of the population of Aboriginal descent despite being under European influence in the 18th century. The Tiwi are considered the country’s most intact Indigenous group, having retained their land and culture.
As we journeyed the passage between Bathurst and Melville, Tiwi’s other main island, it became clear why the region is commonly referred to as the ‘Islands of Smiles’. I would be happy to call these remote beauties home, too. Burnt red and white sands ribbon the islands’ edge, each bounded by clear turquoise waters. A patchwork of eucalyptus and paperbark trees blanketed its core. I could get accustomed to this.
The islands have an annual art sale (Image Tourism NT — Helen Orr)
We slowly pulled into the islands’ ‘capital’, Wurrumiyanga, along the southeast coast, and were quickly exposed to this vibrant Indigenous community. Immediately, I spotted a smile from tour guide ‘Vivi’ — Douglas ‘Vivian’ Warlapinni Kerinauia. The sight of his pearly white teeth living up to the island’s moniker. I was enthralled with Vivi’s spirited nature. He was joyful with his roll call and separated the boatload into smaller groups. Intimate numbers meant we had more opportunities to gain insight into local folklore and ethos. We were no doubt ready to bombard Vivi with all our questions.
Now a close-knit group, he started our experience by explaining the importance of his role in helping to conserve Tiwi traditions. He has been a tour guide for Tiwi Design since 2015.
“Sharing culture with visitors means we can continue to tell our stories, which helps us maintain our culture. We are happy when we share our culture with the outside world,” Vivi told us.
It was a short stroll from the SeaLink ferry terminal to the island’s beachfront creative hub, Tiwi Design. We entered the centre’s grassed front yard, which featured a few picnic tables, a clothesline and rows of white plastic chairs in a semi-circle facing a pergola. Sun-smart Elders had been patiently waiting for our arrival under the shade.
Aboriginal men performing a traditional dance (Image Tourism Australia — James Fisher)
Both groups came together for the formal Welcome to Country. We were seated, watching a handful of men and women crisscross the sandy stage, performing traditional songs in their native tongue to the rhythm of tapping sticks. I wasn’t the only one stirred by their raw melodies.
“Dance, song and making art are a big part of Tiwi culture. Painting clan designs on the body is customary practice when attending ceremonies — it’s part of our connection to our ancestors in the spirit world,” Vivi told us.
Local art at its finest
Art plays a huge part in Tiwi life. The islands are renowned for blending genres, with artworks that pay ode to ancient traditions yet include new influences and techniques. Our exposure to Tiwi culture was about to become hands-on in one of Australia’s oldest art centres.
Discover the Tiwi Islands on a day tour (Image Tourism NT — Shaana McNaught)
Tiwi Design displays various artworks the islands are renowned for, including ironwood carvings, ceramics, ochre paintings, totem poles and ‘modern’ screen printing. On this day, we were about to test our creativity by learning how to do the latter, with the centre having a long history in graphic and design works.
“In the 1970s, we started printing designs on fabric and were the first Indigenous art centre to print lengths of fabric on our two 13-metre-long tables,” Vivi explained as we entered the undercover workshop adjacent to the centre’s gallery.
The artworks feature many of Tiwi’s famed characters (Image Tourism NT — Shaana McNaught)
Tiwi Islands art; (Image Tourism NT — Shaana McNaught)
We stood at the tip of two long tables covered in screen-printing frames and paint pots. Things were about to get messy. Vivi advised us to put on our aprons, encouraging us to connect with our creative side. As part of the tour, we were making our masterpieces to take home.
Vivi selected a crocodile design and painted colours to demonstrate screen printing on a t-shirt. We huddled around to see him hand paint thin rows towards the bottom of the mesh frame. Then, the fun began — mixing colours. Vivi swapped the paintbrush out for a printing squeegee, slowly moving it up and down inside the frame repeatedly, ensuring the paint was evenly dispersed.
Soon enough, a multi-hued croc had been brought to life — he made it look so easy! The wearable artwork was hung out to dry on the clothesline — not that there would be much wait time to showcase the new look; it sure was warm up there!
It was now time for us to tap into Tiwi culture. First, we selected our canvases, and I chose a t-shirt over a kitchen towel. Then, it was time to pick which stencil to bring to life through colour. I made my selection — a barramundi — admiring its intricate patterns. My fellow visitors selected Tiwi’s other famed characters — crocodile, turtle, shark, crab, fish, wallaby, birds and the creator and protector of water, the Dreamtime Rainbow Serpent.
Vivi walked around the shed, watching us as we attempted to mimic his handiwork. I chose my colours — pinks, greens, blues and whites — to make my fish stand out. He must have sensed my apprehension as he started guiding me through the process of transferring the image using a mesh stencil. Little did I know the muscle work required to go back and forth to perfect my barramundi. We were like proud kids hanging our new colourful creations to dry on the clothesline.
Travelling back in time
Then it was time for another lesson: history. We followed Vivi around the township to the Patakijiyali Museum to grasp the island’s rich history, including its important role in WWII, missionary days, culture and obsession with Australian rules football.
The code plays an integral part in Tiwi’s social fabric. The local league, Tiwi Islands Football League (TIFL), has 900 members, more than a third of the population! The biggest event on the sporting calendar, the Tiwi Islands Grand Final, is held every March at Wurrumiyanga, attracting diehard AFL fans to attend the Northern Territory’s major sporting and cultural celebration.
From one religion to the next, we walked over to the island’s Church Precinct. Its main attraction: Saint Therese’s Church. The Catholic church’s timber frame structure dates to 1941, and its altar is decorated with Tiwi artwork — an assortment of beliefs. The church also has its claim to silver screen fame, featuring in the Aussie rom-com Top End Wedding.
Just metres away is the island’s historic Radio Shack. On 19 February 1942, a priest and coastwatcher sent a message to Darwin alerting a large number of aircraft flying southbound over the islands. Regrettably, the message was ignored, resulting in a Japanese air raid over Darwin.
That's a wrap
The tour ended on a high note back at Tiwi Design forthe traditional morning tea of damper outside, basking in the birdsongs and serenity one last time. We chatted with Vivi before our ferry returned to the mainland … back to reality. And that’s what makes the Tiwi Islands so fascinating — full of history, creativity and culture.
Fast facts
Tiwi Design
P: 08 8978 3982
E: tiwidesign@tiwiart.com
Tiwi By Design (tour)
P: 1300 130 679 / 08 8981 2878
- One-day tour from $439 per adult
- Departure dates: Thursdays and Fridays until 30 November 2024. Additional Monday departures in June, July and August. Excludes public holidays.
- Departure time: 8:00am returning to Darwin at 5:45pm
Extend your Tiwi Islands experience
Spend more than a day on these far-flung islands, immersing yourself in Tiwi culture. SeaLink offers a ‘Luxury Tiwi Islands Escape’ which includes return ferry transfers, 4WD island transfers, an overnight stay in remote beachfront accommodation — Tiwi Island Retreat, a chef-prepared meal and a local guide to lead you on a walking tour through Patakijiyali Museum and the historic Mission Precinct.
Two-day tour from $1430 per adult
When to visit
As part of the Top End of Australia, the Tiwi Islands are ruled by the weather rather than the four seasons. The dry season runs from May to October, and tends to be the best time of year to visit this part of the country. The wet season (November to April) features heavy rainfall, spectacular thunderstorms and smaller crowds at some of the Territory's more popular destinations.
The Tiwi Islands do differ somewhat, and have three major seasons and thirteen smaller ones, so if you'd like to narrow down what kind of experience you'll have, head here.
Tiwi Islands coastline (Image Tourism NT — Mark Fitz)
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