STARTING OUR GIPPSLAND JOURNEY
This adventure begins in Sale, the gateway to Australia’s largest inland waterway system, the Gippsland Lakes. Home to thriving bird and marine life, including freshwater lake dolphins and seals, the region also supports Victoria’s largest fishing fleet.
A WALK THROUGH CULTURE AND LEGEND
Take a detour from Sale to visit the nearby Mitchell River National Park and explore the trail to the Den of Nargun. Despite its intimidating name, this enchanting location holds cultural significance for the women of the Gunaikurnai Aboriginal people.
A beautiful waterfall waits at the end of the walking trail, and it’s the kind of place where you sit for a while without checking the time, listening to the sounds of the bush. Be aware, though, as legend tells of Nargun, a fierce half-human, half-stone creature that drags unsuspecting travellers into its den.
It’s easy to understand why this place holds cultural significance. There’s a presence to it. You don’t need the story of the Nargun to feel it, but once you’ve heard it, it lingers in the back of your mind as you walk back out.
PAYNESVILLE LAKESIDE LIVING
I nearly drove straight past Paynesville, figuring it was just a quick overnight stop, but once I arrived, that changed pretty quickly.
I set up at Paynesville Holiday Park, before taking a stroll down to Paynesville Beach, where I sat looking across Lake Victoria. Boats moved slowly across the water, pelicans drifted without urgency, and no one seemed to be in a hurry to get anywhere. That was enough for me as I started to relax after a long day on the road.
The ferry to Raymond Island runs constantly, back and forth, simple and reliable. Free for pedestrians, it was a no-brainer to leave the vehicle at the caravan park. Once on the island, I followed the well-marked Koala Trail, keeping my eyes peeled for the furry marsupials as they slept or fed in the manna gums. I also spotted Eastern Grey kangaroos but missed out on wombats and echidnas on the 1.2km trail.
On returning to the mainland, it was a short drive to nearby Eagle Point to explore the stunning Mitchell River silt jetties, which may be the longest in the world. You can also get a great view of the jetties from the bluff lookout at Eagle Point.
As the sun sets, consider dining at one of the restaurants or cafes along the Esplanade. You can also enjoy a cruise, try your luck fishing for bream or mullet, or keep an eye out for playful dolphins in the water.
ON THE ROAD TO LAKES ENTRANCE
I wasn’t in a hurry to leave Paynesville, but eventually I headed east towards Lakes Entrance. On the way, I followed the signs into Nicholson, more out of curiosity than anything else. That’s how I ended up at Nicholson River Winery. It’s one of those spots that rewards the detour.
Ken and Juliet looked after me well, the kind of genuine hospitality you don’t forget. After tasting a range of their wines, I grabbed a bottle of Sangiovese and found a spot overlooking the Nicholson River. There was no rush, no noise, just a simple picnic and a view that didn’t need improving.
LAKES ENTRANCE WHERE LAKE MEETS SEA
Lakes Entrance has a different feel altogether. After the quiet of Paynesville, it feels busier, shaped by the fishing fleet and the steady movement of boats through the entrance. There’s always something happening on the water.
I set up at Waters Edge Holiday Park and settled in. The walk across the footbridge became a daily habit. Over the channel, past the boats, and out onto Ninety Mile Beach.
The first time you step onto it, it takes a second to register. It just keeps going; no headlands, no interruption, just golden sand stretching away in both directions. I walked for a while, then stopped, then walked again. There’s no real reason to rush it, sit and watch the fisherman flick a line chasing tailor and salmon, or the seagulls skip about as the waves wash up on the sand.
A DAY ON THE WATER
Getting out on the lakes felt like something I shouldn’t miss. The three-hour cruise out towards the entrance channel and across Lake King turned out to be one of the highlights of the trip. It’s a completely different perspective once you’re off the shore.
As we approached the channel, the seals came into view, sprawled across the rocks, completely at ease. Every now and then, one would slip into the water, only to pop back up somewhere else moments later. I could have watched these dogs of the sea for hours.
Out on Lake King, the scale of the place really hits you. Open water, scattered islands and not much else. It’s quiet in a different way out there, the kind that makes you slow down without thinking about it.
A RUN OUT TO BUCHAN
One morning, I decided to head inland to find one of the most impressive natural attractions. The drive to Buchan is an easy one, winding through farmland and small pockets of bush. It’s the kind of road you don’t rush, wind down your windows and smell the fresh air.
Royal Cave and Fairy Cave are the main attractions, showcasing remarkable limestone formations formed by mineral-rich water dripping slowly. I joined a guided tour that led the group through narrow passageways, opening into vast caverns filled with intricate formations. Stalactites hang like stone chandeliers from cavern ceilings, while stalagmites rise from the cave floor in delicate columns. Helictites twist in unexpected directions, and calcite-rimmed pools shimmer under carefully positioned lighting.
On the return journey, a stop at the historic Stony Creek Trestle Bridge adds another layer of interest. Built in 1916 using durable Australian hardwoods, this towering structure is one of Victoria’s most impressive railway bridges. Standing beside its massive timbers serves as a powerful reminder of early engineering achievements and the region’s rail history. Notably, in 1964, 11 rail trucks derailed, causing four of them to topple over the edge of the bridge!
LOCAL CHARACTERS, MARKETS, AND MEALS
The nearby town of Metung is the place to be on the second Saturday of the month, where you’ll find the popular farmers market in the relaxed lakeside village. The market showcases local produce and handcrafted goods, offering visitors the opportunity to meet regional producers and sample fresh seasonal offerings.
As I strolled through the market, I found artisan breads, locally produced honey, fresh vegetables, and handcrafted products. It is as much a social gathering as it is a shopping experience, with visitors and locals sharing stories and recommendations.
The surrounding foreshore also provides an ideal location to relax after exploring the market, with views across Lake King creating a peaceful backdrop.
FAREWELL FOR NOW
As I hitched the caravan, I realised that I’d only scratched the surface of what the Gippsland Lakes have to offer during my week-long exploration. There are still many activities to enjoy, including mountain biking in Colquhoun Forest, kayaking, surfing, fishing, a tiger moth flight over the lakes, cycling the Gippsland Lake Discovery Track and Rail Trail, or playing a round of golf. I'll just have to return and experience this beautiful region all over again.
Region: East Gippsland, Victoria’s premier inland waterways destination.
Gateway Towns: Sale provides an easy Western entry point, Bairnsdale serves as the regional hub, and Lakes Entrance offers direct ocean access and relaxed vibes by the water.
Stay Options:
Waterfront caravan parks with powered and unpowered sites throughout the lakes system. Bush camping options are available in nearby state and national parks.
Best Time to Visit:
This region of Victoria has something for everyone all year round.
What To Pack
Fishing gear, comfortable walking shoes for coastal and bush tracks, and layered clothing for changing coastal weather. Binoculars for birdlife and koala spotting, a camera or a drone for capturing waterways and ocean landscapes and sun protection, including a hat and sunscreen.
Touring Conditions
Sealed highways and well-maintained regional roads link all major towns and are suitable for caravans of all sizes. Short, relaxed driving distances allow easy multi-day exploration.
Don’t Miss Experiences:
- Koala spotting along Raymond Island’s walking trails
- Standing on the sweeping sands of Ninety Mile Beach
- Taking a cruise on Lake King
- Exploring the spectacular limestone formations of Buchan Caves
- Sampling fresh seafood and local produce in lakeside villages
Helpful Contacts:
East Gippsland Visitor Information Centres are located in Bairnsdale and Lakes Entrance
Location Names:
- Sale
- Lakes Entrance
- Buchan
- Paynesville
- Metung
- 90 Mile Beach
- Den of Nargun
Whether you're planning a weekend getaway or a long-haul adventure, having the right resources can make all the difference when you're out of range. To help you navigate with confidence, you might find it useful to pair your journey with a detailed set of topographical road maps or a comprehensive campsite guide. Explore some of the maps below or visit our store for a full range of products.
Exploring Victoria’s Gippsland Lakes Region