Flat sandy sites at Carmila Beachfront Camp
Discover three cheap scenic spots that are the perfect base camps for exploring Queensland’s Isaac Coast.
From Saint Lawrence to Cape Palmerston and Notch Point lies a scenic coastline of caravanning bliss, great fishing opportunities and, for those willing to venture offroad, even a spot of unexpected, sandy adventure.
We were on our way home after six months in Far North Queensland and on the way we detoured to a tiny corner of the Isaac region in Queensland, halfway between Mackay and Rockhampton. Located off the busy Bruce Highway, Carmila Beachfront Camp is a somewhat hidden gem and a great stop for a night or two. Just don’t make the same mistake we did.
We were scouring for a perfect little campsite on the Isaac Coast, but getting bogged in sloppy sand with the caravan in tow was definitely not part of the plan. As we reversed and the caravan jackknifed into the car, we heard a terrible crunch and cringed. The toolbox took the impact and sitting the car we only hoped it hadn’t hit the van.
So, how did we find ourselves in this situation?
Carmila Beachfront Camp
We were around 60km south of Sarina, an area renowned for its cane farming. Cane trains are a common sight here during harvest season and occasionally stop the traffic as they cross the highway, creating a rather entertaining pause in the mundane traffic, at least for relaxed caravanners like us. After a few hours on the busy Bruce Highway, we were more than happy to swap the bitumen for quieter back roads.
From the turn off to Carmila it’s an easy road that leads to Carmila Beach. It’s sealed all the way except for the last couple of kilometres of gravel road and then the last 800 or so metres turns to sand. We just didn’t realise how sandy.
Beautiful but boggy sandy sites at Carmila Beachfront Camp
Always walk into your site before driving
As you enter the council-run campground a sign declares there are three areas, all with unpowered sites. The first camping zone is designated for caravans, the second for camper trailers and the third has tent sites. But signs are not always clear cut and definitive. I’d read reviews online that suggested caravans could easily drive beyond the first area with plenty of spots accessible further along. So, we headed on past the second turn and onto the third. By this stage the zone signs weren’t too prominent, and it was unclear where we were. We turned into an area and the sand was suddenly very soft, too soft, and was sloppy and deep.
The track narrowed and the trees and branches crowded in on us. Doug tried to manoeuvre the car and van through, but the turn was tight and there was nowhere to go. As he tried to reverse around the track he lost momentum and the wheels sunk deeper. He turned the wheel and that’s when the car jack-knifed onto the toolbox and we heard a huge crunch.
The battered toolbox
I put my hands to my face and groaned, it’s not helpful I know. I wanted to jump out and check what was happening but, with my dodgy ankle, I could see that the sand was far too deep. I’d been in a moon boot for six weeks prior to this, having broken an ankle in Cooktown, and the boot had only been off for a fortnight. The last thing I needed was to sink into deep sand and wreck my foot even more. So, I stayed in the car.
The other half jumped out and I knew it wasn’t good as his language got even more colourful. He got the shovel off the roof and was digging sand out from underneath the tyres. The tyre pressures were too high as we hadn’t realised that we’d be towing through deep sand, so lowering them would help gain traction. It was at this point that we heard a fellow camper call behind us “you need a hand mate?”. Rescue had arrived, in the form of a Nissan Patrol and the relief set in. Out came our recovery gear, which we never travel without. The rescue was smooth sailing, and we were easily and efficiently pulled out. The good ol’ Australian kinship of helping a fellow traveller in strife was alive and well and we were beyond grateful.
Always someone to lend a hand
Once on safe ground, we didn’t push our luck and instead headed back the way we came in. There were plenty of decent spots we had passed by, and we found a nice level campsite with a great outlook, back in Zone One. There were only two other vans there with us and we had wonderful views of the ocean and across to the nearby islands with a huge sand bar right in front of us. It looked perfect for long relaxing walks, which would have been great if I was nimbler.
We realised later that, had we continued and gone into Zone Two, there were plenty of large, flat sites with harder sand and even better beach views. It was simply unfortunate (especially for the toolbox and the cracked taillight) that we turned when we did. Lesson learnt: if you’re unsure about an area, either sand or water, get out and walk through it first.
Carmila Beach is a popular spot for keen fishermen, with creeks both north and south of the campground ideal for launching a boat. The area is renowned for barramundi, mangrove jack, trevally and flathead. There’s no potable water so fill your tanks before you head in. The service station at the turn off to Carmila is a good stop if you need bottled water and other supplies. At the campground there’s pit toilets, rubbish skips and a dump point. Mobile reception is patchy but there’s enough to get through to the local council to make your booking. My tip: choose your site first, before you ring.
High tide at Carmila Beach
Keep in mind that at certain times of the year the mosquitos and midges can be extremely friendly. We stayed in late November after some rain, and the little pests were so friendly that we left a day earlier than planned. However, if you time it right this cheap, council run campground is a brilliant spot and a great place to break up the scenic drive. With clear ocean views and easy access to the beach it’s a magical spot for nature lovers, long walks at low tide and just kicking back and taking in the views.
Notch Point Campground (Yarrawonga Reserve Campground)
If you love the idea of getting off-grid and waking up to spectacular views, then you must visit Notch Point. This might be one of the most scenic beachside camps in Queensland and it’s completely free.
The turn off from the Bruce Highway is about 30 minutes south of Sarina. Look out for the Cape Palmerston National Park sign and turn left onto Greenhill Road. After about four kilometres you’ll turn right onto Notch Point Road. Pass through the gate, making sure you close it behind you, and stick to the main road, it’s roughly 30 minutes from the highway to reach the camping area.
Always close the gate
Relaxing at Notch Point Campground
The road into Notch Point Campground is tight and unsealed so it’s recommended for 4WD vehicles only. With a few sandy sections and water crossings the road in can become particularly challenging during high tide or wet conditions. When we visited there’d been a bit of rain beforehand so there were quite a few potholes and puddles making it slow going but our offroad Jayco Journey made it in with no issues.
In places the track can get very narrow and trees overhang, so be aware if you have a big rig. There are only a few sections that are dual lane, so keep your communications on in case you meet a vehicle coming the other way. We encountered another car and caravan going out but fortunately we had room to reverse off the track. We got out of the car and spoke to them as they passed and they advised us to go just over the hill for the best views and to escape the wind (which fortunately wasn’t too bad on our visit).
It’s always wise to check the weather conditions and forecast before you head into places like this. It was cloudy and overcast but calm when we visited.
Notch Point has zero facilities, so you need to be completely self-sufficient. The closest fuel, food and bait are available at the Ilbilbie Roadhouse where you can stock up fully before you head in. Once there you’ll see what all the fuss is about as the views are phenomenal.
With sea vistas in all directions Notch Point is like a picturesque patchwork of greens and blues. Set amid rolling lush hills and next to a cattle farm, you’ll regularly have cows strolling past your campsite. While the huge camping area is dog friendly, there are signs stating that dogs on private property will be shot so make sure you keep any dogs with you at all times. You don’t want them inadvertently venturing onto cattle station land.
Spectacular views at Notch Point Campground
There’s plenty of space to take in the views and, with an ever-changing expanse of skyline and seascape, it’s easy to simply sit back and soak it all in. Depending on the time of year you visit there’s a good chance of spotting whales, dolphins and turtles. Don’t be tempted to swim in the inviting waters, though, as it’s still crocodile country. Signs are everywhere so stay sensible and be croc-safe when exploring and fishing. A lone fisherman was taken here a few years ago and a memorial sign and marker pays homage to his memory.
Notch Point is one of the most spectacular free camps along the coast
What you take in, you take out
Notch Point is bush camping at its finest but remember that everything you take in you take out. There’s a rubbish skip just outside the gate, Carmila Beach has a dump point, and you can top up with water in Sarina. While in Sarina why not check out the Sugar Shed, open every day of the week or take a photo with Buffy, the Big Cane Toad.
Sugar cane train on Bruce Highway
St Lawrence Recreation Reserve
Heading south towards Rockhampton, Saint Lawrence is a great overnight stop only 6km off the highway. Whether you stop in behind the Saint Lawrence Hotel for a pub meal and a night off from cooking or you pull up at the wonderfully maintained St Lawrence Recreation Reserve, this little town is very welcoming.
For us the St Lawrence Recreation Reserve is a favourite stopover on the central Queensland coast. There are clean basic facilities (with toilets and hot showers), water, shelters, barbecues, picnic tables, a dump point and plenty of room to spread out for even the biggest rigs. The best bit is the beautiful short walk to the nearby wetlands, where natural beauty abounds.
Seats, rotundas and good facilities available at St Lawrence Recreation Reserve
St Lawrence Wetlands have been listed in the Directory of Important Wetlands in Australia with a depth that varies and is at its highest between January and April. Birdwatchers should bring all their gear, as this area supports a wide variety of bird species, some of which are nationally threatened. On the second weekend of June each year the St Lawrence Wetlands Weekend is held, an immersive experience of learning about wetlands, endangered birdlife, nature weaving, arts workshops and regional produce, all while camping in this wonderful environment.
St Lawrence Wetlands are a must-visit
Regardless of when you visit, sunsets over the wetlands and open plains are magical and, depending on the time of year, you may see thousands of birds flock overhead. Like us, they’re travelling onwards, catching the breeze and heading for new horizons and sandy shores in this beautiful big country.
Travel planner
29 Esplanade
Carmila Qld 4739
Bookings through Isaac Council.
Fee: $14 per night
P: 1300 472 227
E: records@isaac.qld.gov.au
Notch Point Campground (Yarrawonga Reserve Campground)
Notch Point Road
Ilbilbie Qld 4738
P: 1300 472 227
E: records@isaac.qld.gov.au
St Lawrence Recreation Reserve
624 St Lawrence Connection Road
Saint Lawrence Qld 4707
Bookings through Isaac Council
Fee: $14 per night, or in the on-site donation box
P: 1300 472 227
E: records@isaac.qld.gov.au
19 Railway Parade
Saint Lawrence Qld 4707
P: 07 4956 9063
Camping out the back for $20, redeemable for food and drink at the pub
Choose between pub camping or the recreation reserve in Saint Lawrence
THE NEXT STEP
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