Unhitch the van, pack your sense of adventure and come on the Top End road trip that will make even the tamest traveller feel like an outback warrior.
Territorians don’t like to brag about their own backyard — especially when it might reveal a real gem.
So it’s little wonder that one of Northern Territory’s most adventurous road trips remains under the tourist radar.
I’m talking about the Reynolds River Track, an off-grid bundle of 4WD fun that’s just 90 minutes from Darwin but a world away from civilisation.
At the turn-off to the 44km track in the middle of Litchfield National Park, signs warn that only 4WD vehicles should venture any further. Only open in the dry season (May to September), there are water crossings, corrugations and sections so bumpy you’ll think your teeth might fall out.
Reynolds River Track adventure
We don’t own a 4WD and the one my husband and I hired was banned from any river crossings, so we ‘did the Reynolds’ as they say up there in the Top End, on a tour with Down Under Safaris. Becs was our driver and guide.
Our route, she told us, was through sandstone country, monsoonal rainforests and savannah woodlands and was “across and up the river for a little bit”.
Within minutes of the warning, we came across the first of four river crossings. In the dry season, it’s usually only 0.5m deep so Becs told us that there was ‘nothing to worry about’.
The first of four river crossings along the Reynolds River Track, NT, with Down Under Safaris
I wasn’t worried at all … I was in her car.
Plus, we were reassured that the track only opens once the area has been cleared of crocs by rangers.
Still, if we got stuck, I didn’t want to have to get in the water to help get unstuck. The river crossings and indeed the whole track was so much fun for we 4WD novices. For those willing to navigate the bumps and the dust then hike through some untamed wilderness, the rewards are plentiful: hidden waterholes with stunning waterfalls and some close encounters with outback wildlife.
Small groups of brahman cattle are common … grazing buffalo a cool surprise.
We then headed for the track highlights — Tjaynera Falls (Sandy Creek) and Surprise Creek, plus a close look at NT’s magnetic termite mounds and the Lost City.
Grazing buffalo can be spotted along the track
Continuing on to some of the track highlights: Tjaynera Falls (Sandy Creek) and Surprise Creek
Tjaynera Falls (Sandy Creek)
When we reached Tjaynera Falls (Sandy Creek) Campground, it was a 40-minute walk along a stony path with a few creek crossings and scrambling over rocks to get to Tjaynera Falls and swimming lagoon.
Along the way, Becs pointed out the sand palms, Kakadu plums and silver leaf grevillea among the Darwin woollybutt and stringybark trees.
At the water’s edge, we could tell it was crocodile-safe because of the untouched red buoys. Apparently, these ancient reptiles can’t resist the colour red so if the buoys are still in one piece, there are usually no crocs. Note to self: never wear red bathers.
It was time for a swim while watching red-tailed black cockatoos overhead. The yellow and red flashes of colour from these beautiful birds are common in the north of Australia. Fun fact, according to Becs, red-tailed black cockatoos with red tails are males and yellow tails belong to the females.
At times it was deathly quiet at the lagoon but the longer we stood still, the more sounds emerged. The beautiful birdsong is the Aussie Bush soundtrack to listen to as rainbow bee-eaters flipped their orange and blue wings as they flew around.
Tjaynera Falls in Litchfield National Park, NT
Surprise Creek
Back on the track, we were surrounded by olive green savannah woodlands. Every so often we spotted occasional pops of colour — bright yellow flowers on bushes that had long since shed their leaves to preserve energy purely for their blossoms. “These are kapok flowers,” Becs said, “and when they flower, it’s a sign for the Indigenous people that the freshwater crocodile breeding season has begun.
“When the green seed pods appear, it means the crocodiles are laying eggs.
“And when those pods dry and crack open, it also means croc eggs have hatched.
“When turkey bushes flower, like now, their pink blooms are a sign that the dry season has begun.
“Everything that happens in the bush has a meaning and points to something else happening in the eco-cycle.”
We enjoyed a picnic lunch at the Surprise Creek Campground before tackling the hike to the waterhole. It turned out to be an easy walk — just 400m under towering paperbark trees but still across uneven ground and through a creek. There was a large pool at the base of a smooth rockface. Mother Nature had kindly created natural rock steps to help us get in and out of the water. You can also climb the rock face to get to the real surprise — two deep circular water holes etched out over thousands of wet seasons. In the dry season, the water levels are fed by just a trickling waterfall.
Surprise Creek Falls
Litchfield’s Magnetic Termite Mounds
A few more river crossings kept things exciting, especially when we turned and follow a shallow section upstream … we had never done that before! Then the thick scrub gave way to open plains as we drove through fields of termite mounds.
Cathedral termite mound
These were the flood plains, and it was a bizarre scene — almost like a cemetery — with hundreds of tombstone-like magnetic structures all facing in the same direction. Nothing else can survive in this territory but the termites have found a way to thrive.
They build their intricate homes precisely capturing the perfect amount of sun to keep them well insulated. Also dotted around were cathedral termite mounds, some 6m tall. These were named by early explorers because they reminded them of cathedrals back in Europe.
The Lost City
Our last stop, along another 10km section of rocky road, was at the Lost City of Litchfield National Park.
Wandering around the towering sandstone rock formations felt like we were walking past the buildings and down alleyways of an ancient city.
It was a fitting end to a day of outback adventure, just 100km from Darwin but a world away from civilisation. We came and we conquered this wild territory … even if it was in someone else’s vehicle!
The Lost City
Getting to the Reynolds River Track in Litchfield National Park
The Reynolds River Track is in the heart of Litchfield National Park, just 106km south of Darwin.
Caravanners with 4WD experience can tackle the track but you’ll need to unhitch and leave your van at a caravan park such as Litchfield Safari Park — vans are not permitted on Reynolds River Track.
If you want to stay along the track, bring a swag or tent to pitch at Tjaynera Falls (Sandy Creek) or Surprise Creek campgrounds. You’ll need to book them via the NT Parks booking system, where you can also get your NT Parks Pass.
Camper trailers are allowed on the northern section of Reynolds River Track between Litchfield Park Road and Sandy Creek turn-off but cannot be towed south of that point.
Check road conditions here or call 1800 246 199.
However, if you don’t want to do the Reynolds River route on your own, or don’t want to risk using your own vehicle, a Down Under Safaris tour is a great option. Check out its 4WD tours here.
The writer was a guest of Tourism NT
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Up the Reynolds River Track without a hitch — Litchfield National Park, NT