Many caravanners pass through Dubbo, but Miriam Blaker hung around for a few days and discovered some of the town’s hidden delights.
It had been a long, hot day on the road — more than six hours — and we were tired and keen to stop. With a few options in mind, and deciding against free camping, I rang ahead. It’s $25 I was told, and we’d have power and water, which was particularly welcome in the heat.
But the part I was really looking forward to was the wine tasting and the renowned home-made dumplings. Less than an hour later we arrived and were directed out the back, where we parked our new All Terrain caravan among the vines of this small family-owned winery.
It was our first taste of the area, and it didn’t disappoint. While the winery itself, Red Earth Estate Winery, is nothing fancy and in need of a bit of a spruce up, we were greeted with a friendly welcome and some of the best dumplings I’ve ever had. The wines are good too. Forgoing the tasting for a full and delightfully cold glass of the Estate’s riesling and Verdelho, paired with delicious appetisers, it was the perfect decompression after our long day. Much later a spectacular storm lit up the skies above the vines, a fitting way to begin our Western Plains adventure.
Cooking breakfast among the vines at Red Earth Estate
Dumplings at Red Earth Winery
We were on the outskirts of Dubbo, a bustling town in the western outback of New South Wales. Here five main routes intersect with a national highway north to Brisbane, south to Melbourne (where we’ve come from), east to Sydney and west to Broken Hill and Adelaide. Along the Newell Highway trucks far outnumber cars and caravans. But we were not merely passing through — we were stopping for a while.
A bit of history. The district around what’s now Dubbo was visited in 1818 by explorer John Oxley. Founded in 1841 it was an established village by 1849, when the gaol had already been in operation for two years. In ensuing years, a town sprang up around the gaol and, in 1966, it officially became a regional city and the trade centre of an area producing wheat, livestock, timber, fruits and vegetables. Today it’s a popular stopover for caravanners with long bay parking near the shopping strip at the rear of Coles and Kmart as well as near the Visitor Information Centre on the corner of Macquarie Street and the Newell Highway.
Stroll the heritage walk to discover Dubbo’s history
Taronga Western Plains Zoo
For anyone unfamiliar with the area perhaps the welcome sign gives a clue. The white rhino surely encapsulates the wild nature of Dubbo in the lure of the Taronga Western Plains Zoo. This not-for-profit wildlife sanctuary, in conjunction with Sydney’s Taronga Zoo, is undoubtedly one of the most significant zoos in Australia for rehabilitating endangered species.
Formerly an army camp during World War II, the site was transformed into a 300ha oasis and in 1977 became the first zoo in Australia to be constructed on the open range principle. Today visitors can walk, hire a buggy or bike or do what we did and drive the 6km loop, with plenty of places to stop and park along the way.
With maps provided you can time your visit with feedings and ranger talks to get the most out of your experience. Within the five zones — Australia, Africa, Asia, North America and Eurasia — there are many highlights and opportunities for close encounters.
Close encounters at Dubbo Zoo
Like big kids we were enthralled by the zebras and giraffes. There are elephants, camels, lions, eland and oryx. The zoo breeds rare and endangered species such as the bison, Galapagos tortoise, southern white rhinoceros and the Przewalski’s horse of Mongolia. The zoo ticket is valid for consecutive days so you can go see what you missed on day two.
Less than 2km from the Western Plains Zoo is Dundullimal Homestead, one of Australia’s oldest and most refined slab houses. Originally a 10,000ha working property, this National Trust-listed property is a beautifully restored connection to the rural past with Australian iconic architecture, tranquil gardens and stories from the past. Stroll the gardens and enjoy Devonshire tea at the Shed Cafe.
Dundullimal Homestead is one of the oldest slab houses in NSW
The serene grounds at Dundullimal Homestead
Old Dubbo Gaol
Step back in time and find out what happened to those who misbehaved in 1847 to 1966. In the heart of Dubbo and behind the walls of this 19th century prison is a museum that brings the not-so-nice history to life through images, sounds and stories. It’s unimaginable how cruel the punishments were for minor crimes back in the day.
Dubbo’s old gaol first opened its doors as a tourist attraction in 1974 and last year it celebrated 50 years. I can’t imagine many of the inmates lasting that long.
The gaol was established two years before the proclamation of the city
The corridors of the Old Dubbo Gaol
Walk to the Watch Tower, which was unfortunately closed on our visit due to wet weather. Still, the grey stormy skies were fitting for the escape stories told to us by our enthusiastic guide Jordan. It was eerie, atmospheric and I can imagine a twilight tour would be even more so. Dubbo Gaol is both confronting and entertaining, and like a window into a different era.
A ticket to adventure
Head to the Dubbo Observatory for some stargazing or visit the Royal Flying Doctor Service, an important Aussie icon that helps many families living in rural communities. Every dollar spent there goes back into the service. If you want to get the most out of a short trip to Dubbo, consider purchasing The Great Big Adventure Pass online which gets you inside four of the major attractions in the area: the Zoo, the old Gaol, the Royal Flying Doctor Service and a tour of the Wellington caves which are 40 minutes away.
Escape attempts from the Dubbo Gaol were rarely successful
Free and cheap activities
Trails
Grab a map from the Information Centre and stroll the Heritage Trail in town. There’s plenty of historic buildings to discover. If you have bikes, the time and the stamina the Central West Cycle Trail goes for 400km and links the major towns of Mudgee, Dubbo and Wellington. In town the Tracker Riley cycle way is a 13km cycleway loop named after Dubbo’s famous Alec ‘Tracker’ Riley, the first Aboriginal tracker to reach the rank of Sergeant.
Dubbo Visitor Information Centre
Japanese Shoyoen Gardens
For something more subdued head to the Japanese Shoyoen Gardens off Coronation Drive. Shoyoen means ‘strolling and refreshing garden’ and is truly an oasis, especially on a hot summer’s day. Shoyoen is recognised as one of the most authentic Japanese Gardens in Australia. Gifted to Dubbo by its Sister City, Minokamo, Japan, the garden is full of popular Japanese plants like the Cherry tree, the Japanese Persimmon and Iris.
The tranquil Japanese Shoyoen Gardens
Visit the tea hut, stroll and enjoy the waterfall and streams and relax by the lake that symbolises human existence: birth, growth and death, Japanese Koi or ‘living flowers’. The Dubbo Regional Botanic Gardens are stunning and feature a Biodiversity Garden, the Sensory Garden and the cool surrounds of Oasis Valley.
Relaxing by the lake in the Japanese Gardens
Sandy Beach
In warm weather Sandy Beach, located along the Macquarie River, is a great place to relax. Located behind the shopping strip, the Macquarie winds its way through town where, along its banks, a paved walkway offers plenty of places to stop and relax. Look out for the colourful Aboriginal artwork underneath the bridge.
Artwork on the bridge over the Macquarie River
Dubbo Farmers Market
On the first and third Saturdays of the month the Dubbo Farmers Market in the Macquarie Lions Park is the place to pick up fresh local produce. We timed it perfectly and stocked up on some preserves, chatting to locals like Kathy from Teddy Goose and Co. who told me she’s been bottling since she was eight, learning from her grandmother. The sign on the jar of Zucchini Mustard Pickles reads “Made in a little farmhouse kitchen by a smiley faced gap-toothed girl who loves to cook. Teddy and Goose were the best cat and dog I ever had.”
Chatting to Kathy from Teddy Goose and Co at the local market
Lots of great local produce
Art and culture
There are stories to be found everywhere. Western Plains Cultural Centre is the creative soul of Dubbo, housing the Dubbo Museum, a regional art gallery and modern café. It’s free to enter and has some fascinating exhibitions to discover.
Places to stay with your caravan
Discovery and NRMA
There are five caravan parks in town, a couple of centrally located ones and quieter parks on the edge of town. Discovery Parks - Dubbo is near the zoo and Red Earth Estate Winery, where we stayed the first night, is also only a short drive from the zoo. For those travelling with dogs the NRMA Dubbo Holiday Park is a good option with fenced-in dog sites, a great pool area and within walking distance to hotels and Thai food.
Dubbo Showground
The Dubbo Showground has a public dump point, but camping is restricted to those travelling with horses.
Best bush camping options
However, 10km north of town is a great free camp spot at Terramungamine Reserve on the banks of the Macquarie River. It has tables and seating, a toilet, bins and plenty of space. On our visit the grass was overgrown and the tables hard to access but hopefully council maintenance will improve that. Close by is a walk to the Terramungamine Rock Grooves, a rocky outcrop beside the river which includes about 150 rock carvings by Aboriginal people who once used the hard stone to sharpen their stone axes.
Free camping at Terramungamine Reserve
How’s the Serenity is another popular spot 20 minutes north of Dubbo. As the name suggests, the farm stay offers a quiet, peaceful and secluded setting. Set on 2000 acres, this family-owned farm, with reasonable rates for their powered and unpowered sites, will have you stargazing with no telescope needed.
My pick in Dubbo is Blizzardfield, a private campground that’s not so easily found on the reinvented Wikicamps App, but well worth seeking out, just ring first. It’s only 6km from central Dubbo and offers 30 well-spaced campsites, many with power. Set among shady trees, this quiet campground caters to fully self-contained rigs. Look for the two giraffes, which is the entry point to the campground.
The Blizzardfield campground is central to town
Pete is the owner, but he was out on a family crisis when we visited, so we met Kathy and Dave, who’d been helping watering lawns. They’re full-time travellers and no strangers to Dubbo having stayed at Blizzardfield for many months last year when they had to pull up stops for a while.
Sites are green and lush and there’s access to power, water and laundry facilities. Mr Darcy, the gentle giant German Shepherd, welcomes us. Dave reckons, and I agreed, it’s a gem and a bargain at $30 for a powered site.
Discover the best of Dubbo
Dubbo has a big yearly calendar of events with shows and festivals catering for foodies, car enthusiasts, history lovers and seekers of all things wild and wonderful. This hub of the west is rural and relaxing and worth hanging around for a few days, to do it justice.
Fast facts
18L Camp Road
Dubbo, NSW, 2830
P: 02 6885 6676
154 Whylandra Street
Dubbo, NSW, 2830
P: 1800 033 072
18 Alfred Street
Dubbo, NSW, 2830
P: 1800 824 820
Lot 135 Burraway Road
Terramungamine, NSW, 2830
How’s the Serenity Bush Camping
Collie Street
Dubbo, NSW, 2830
P: 0478 876 255 (ring first)
Blizzardfield Private Campground
3L Richardson Road
Dubbo, NSW, 2830
P: 0407 638 990
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